Need help with conversion of Autoheat to Manual

[Kidasters]

I've searched the forum, and found one post from 2005 that talked about how to convert my Autoheat to manual. It doesn't work right now, and instead of trying to troubleshoot the electronics, I've read that you can just bypass the electrical bits and tie into the line that controls the flapper boxes with a lever. While there have been multiple posts that I have read about this - anyone have pictures of how they did it? It would help a slow learner like me.

Thanks,

Ken

[carreradpt]

Bump

[johnsjmc]

My 80 has an" emergency " lever down beside the autoheat control box already. Early cars had 2 levers to control the heat to the left and right side seperatly.

[tabasco]

Ken,

If you have the "emergency" lever on the right side of the hanbrake, chances are that both flapper boxes are already connected to the lever.

Then all it takes is to disconnect the ball socket from the auto heat system to the lever,
and eventually adjust the lever axle nut to make it a little harder (so that it stays in position).

-Guillaume

[tomphot]

I'd love to see how this could be done as well.
My Auto heat has 2 settings - really hot and cold.

[Burkie61]

Kidasters

On my coupe, my auto heat sensor was located in between the two visors. If you end up dropping your autoheat, would you be interested in selling me your sensor - if yours is the same. Yours may be located under the dash on a targa, so would not be the same unit. I too am close on giving up on my system, but thought I would give it one more go.

Or anyone else who has given up on their autoheat that may have a sensor kicking around let me know.

Thanks

Paul

[brads911sc]

This is also of interest to me. I bought the manual heat and e-Brake assembly from a pre-76 car... but am reluctant to rip out the auto heat without know exactly what i need to do to connect the new(old) manual set up.

[Scott R]

I did this on my 80'. You need new heater cables as the two cables for the boxes come together as one, and it's too short to connect to the separate heater levers. I got a spool of wire from the hardware store for like $5 and fished the wire though the original cable sheaths. That's all this system really is; two cables hooked between the heater boxes and the lever(s). Beyond that you just tuck the auto heat wire and plugs into the tunnel and you're done.

If you guys want pics I can snap one, however beyond the two levers there is not much to see. I really just considered this part of my heater backdate project.

[brads911sc]

Thanks Scott. Think this will be my next weekend project.

Originally Posted by Scott R

I did this on my 80'. You need new heater cables as the two cables for the boxes come together as one, and it's too short to connect to the separate heater levers. I got a spool of wire from the hardware store for like $5 and fished the wire though the original cable sheaths. That's all this system really is; two cables hooked between the heater boxes and the lever(s). Beyond that you just tuck the auto heat wire and plugs into the tunnel and you're done.

If you guys want pics I can snap one, however beyond the two levers there is not much to see. I really just considered this part of my heater backdate project.

[Kidasters]

Brad -

If you do yours first, please let me know. I would love some help.

Scott - I'd love to see the pictures.

Ken

[Scott R]

Things are a bit dusty right now, just put the engine back in.

[Charlie V]

Originally Posted by tabasco

Ken,

If you have the "emergency" lever on the right side of the hanbrake, chances are that both flapper boxes are already connected to the lever.

Then all it takes is to disconnect the ball socket from the auto heat system to the lever,
and eventually adjust the lever axle nut to make it a little harder (so that it stays in position).

-Guillaume

+1. I did this to mine too.

[newms]

Curious if you changed the springs on the flapper boxes. I took out my autoheat and just use the remaining lever which I prop with a folded towel or similar. If it is not propped up, the springs pull the lever back to full cold. I adjust the lever with the towel to different heights and thusly different heats. Not the cleanest of solutions...but works ok!

[Charlie V]

Agree....the springs tend to pull the lever down. Stock springs on the heat control valves. Once the car is warmed up it stays reasonably warm in the car. As the lever slowly works it way closed and the car cools down inside, I just reposition the lever for more heat.