Window switch help

[dsmithwc04]

I am having difficulty in getting the passenger side window down or up. The drivers side works fine and I know the passenger side works as the local shop applied power to it to roll it up but I'm not sure how they did this. The current setup is one switch on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. The second switch on the drivers side has been removed. A picture is worth a thousand words but if somebody could explain which wires go where as maybe the wires are incorrect? Thanks for any and all help!

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by dsmithwc04

I am having difficulty in getting the passenger side window down or up. The drivers side works fine and I know the passenger side works as the local shop applied power to it to roll it up but I'm not sure how they did this. The current setup is one switch on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. The second switch on the drivers side has been removed. A picture is worth a thousand words but if somebody could explain which wires go where as maybe the wires are incorrect? Thanks for any and all help!

Year and model info would be nice.

Here is the wiring for the '86.

Good luck,

Gerry

[dsmithwc04]

1982 911 SC

Sorry about that as that pretty important info! Thanks again.

[rusnak]

I think you might need to jumper the 5-2 and 1-3 spade connectors.

[dsmithwc04]

Well, I tried connecting the known working switch on both the drivers and passenger side connections and no luck. So now I know there is no power getting to the passenger side motor. It can't be the ground since they share the brn ground wire. So, if jumping is the answer then I can just solder a jumper wire from (5 on Drivers switch) to (2 on Pass switch) and (1 on drivers switch) to (3 on Pass switch) using connections on Drivers side door only. Would this be correct?

In my head it sounds like if jumping would work then why would just hooking up a switch work which basically does the same thing???

[Math]

sometimes the passenger side of mine wont go up or down from the switch from the drivers side, I just have to toutch the switch on the passenger side a bit and the driver's side control works again...
go figure

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by dsmithwc04

Well, I tried connecting the known working switch on both the drivers and passenger side connections and no luck. So now I know there is no power getting to the passenger side motor. It can't be the ground since they share the brn ground wire. So, if jumping is the answer then I can just solder a jumper wire from (5 on Drivers switch) to (2 on Pass switch) and (1 on drivers switch) to (3 on Pass switch) using connections on Drivers side door only. Would this be correct?

In my head it sounds like if jumping would work then why would just hooking up a switch work which basically does the same thing???

Check the round motor wire connector located at the (inside) bottom of the door.

[crustychief]

Power Window Switch schematic

This one is a little easier to understand.

[rick-l]

best image I can find

[Barrpete]

Originally Posted by dsmithwc04

The current setup is one switch on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. The second switch on the drivers side has been removed. !

This is what makes solving this tricky. Assuming this modification was done by a PO and you have no documentation on the what was changed you need to start tracing the wires. Since the power goes through the passenger window switch on the DS if that switch was simply removed you won't have any power to the switch on the PS. Start by checking all of the wires on the PS to see if any of them have 12V. If not you need to check the DS to see if there was any attempt to bypass the switch and if those connections have come apart. You can see pretty clearly in the diagram from the link Crustychief posted that the wires on pins 1 & 3 and on 2 & 5 should have been connected to get the power to PS switch.

[Jdub]

Since you will want to clean the old grease off the scissor X that lifts the glass (the regulator) anyways you should pull the panel (easy to do) and get that taken care of. Both sides cleaned and relubed since this would also allow installation of the doorstop reinforcement kit or at the least your chance to see how far the door(s) has torn to date.

Old grease buildup is a prime reason for blown fuses and motors that appear weak or even dead. Your situation sounds like a PO update but allthesame this is a very smart move.

Finally, do vaccum and lightly grease the lowermost portion of the door and ensure that all round plugs are in place at the bottom - this is a common location for wind noise entering the cabin.

Hope I don't sound like an Eyeore but you will be AMAZED at the difference in speed when you clean the reg. and connections should they be corroded at all.

[dsmithwc04]

Thanks so much for all the help so far. Temperarily I will just provide a 12v power source to roll the window up and down. Do I apply the +12V to the blu or blu/blk (1 or 2). I will still try to figure this out though.

The DS switch would not work for the PS window so maybe the connection is bad?

[dsmithwc04]

Oh, and another thing. If I'm using a little portable 12v battery do I need to ground it to the car?

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by dsmithwc04

Oh, and another thing. If I'm using a little portable 12v battery do I need to ground it to the car?

How are you using this battery?

If your former battery has been removed,
the new one must be connected to the
car in the same manner.

Do not connect them in series or parallel!

[rick-l]

Originally Posted by dsmithwc04

Thanks so much for all the help so far. Temperarily I will just provide a 12v power source to roll the window up and down. Do I apply the +12V to the blu or blu/blk (1 or 2). I will still try to figure this out though.

The DS switch would not work for the PS window so maybe the connection is bad?

It is a DC motor so if you hook it up one way it will go up the other down.

Make sure it is disconnected from the rest of the car, as in current goes into the motor and directly back into the battery.

your car the wires to the motor might be green and black.

[dsmithwc04]

Well, so far the best method available is to jump the power from the battery to the wires where the switch used to be on the passenger side. Works enough for me not to worry about running a hot wire to the switch so it will work without a jumper.