i used my pelican sourced tool twice with no issues. the proper tool, if used correctly, is usually advised.

Jeff, I knew you had some smarts stored away up there.

I made my socket as you did, by grinding an inexpensive large socket. And I dreamed of finding a piece of tubing which was just the right size to slip over it and be tack welded in place and prevent it from ever coming off the round "nut."

And here a hose clamp does it! Hand slap to forehead.

My trip to Tool King some years back did not turn up an off the shelf product for other vehicles which fit. If the one for the Dodge is the right pattern, probably a better deal than the home brew.

But any of these tools can be improved with Jeff's hose clamp.

Walt

This image is from another site about replacing 911 ball joints, very good article. I posted it here because I had the same question about the tool. The entire article cam be found here:

Porsche 911 Ball Joint Replacement | RVB Precision - Welcome to the world of ultra precision

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1277287284.jpg

KCinbar - - great post - thanks for documenting the part size/name

Walt,
yeah but ufortunately most the time it t stays hidden way up there.
I made that tool way back when before Al gore invented the internet and availability for special tools was pretty much limited to a Porsche dealer . I can't remember if I was too cheap or needed it in a hurry. Not being a professional mechanic I just can't seem to justify spending money on the proper tool when It has served me well. Besides it gives my friends something to laugh about.

I dug up this old thread today
 

And while I was calling the local Autozone to see if they had the alternate tool, I found it on Amazon Prime for $12, free 2 day shipping with Prime membership.

Amazon.com: Buying Choices: OEM 25965 1/2-Inch 66.5 by 80mm Front Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket

For $12 I'll try it with my 1/2 Torque Wrench and see how tight my pipe wrench got the ring nuts on my ball joints.

I cut the old ones then use the Dodge hub tool to put them in. The stock tool sucks.

Hey RD911T,

Thanks for posting the Amazon link, even with $13 shipping to Australia this is a bargain for us guys downunder:cool:. Order placed already.

This is why Pelican is such a great resource for these type of issues.

Regards
Brett

I've been here reading and learning for 4 years or so and It feels good to contribute. Hope it works well. I'll get mine Weds and report back.

Socket arrived from the States today. Pelican rocks:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395979751.jpg

Ha, I got mine yesterday. FedEx lost the first one. But the tool worked great !

buy the factory tool from porsche was $75.00 years ago works fine to torque ball joint nut to 250 nm or 25 kpm pipe wrench tears nuts up

Air hammer to get old nut off.

Cut notches into the one you just removed that match your new nut. I believe I welded some tubing over it to give it an outer sleeve to help hold the new nut.

Weld some scrap steel on to give you 1/2" socket hole.

It deformed a bit, but I got both ball joints torqued to proper values.

The difficult part was holding the A-arm while torquing :)

No it does not.

The balljoint nut is a threaded pipe.

Just did this last weekend. Bought 6 inches of galvanized pipe the same diameter as the nut, and notched it to match the nut. Then used a pipe wrench to get it off.

The autoparts stores don't carry the right size tool, and definitely not metric.

If I had it to do all over, I would have just gotten the right tool off ebay from OEM for $15 or so... I just wanted to finish up that weekend.

Bo

I torqued mine with the $12.57 tool from Amazon. Free delivery with Prime membership. It worked like a charm. I will say that I had tightened the ring nuts with a pipe wrench first and when I used the tool I got in the mail, one side was tight enough and the other was close (it only turned slightly).

[IMG]http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps3l4t4gnb.jpg[/IMG]

I got one of these 66.5 x 80.0 sockets. seems way loose on the nut. catellated nut seems like a 52.0. But if it work for you then I will give it a try. I would feel better if that big sloppy gap was not around the edge and it was snug. Four teeth also not fully engaged.see pichttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416883188.jpg

I used the tool purchased here with an air wrench off/on no problem. It didn't round out at all.
If anyone needs it let me know...I doubt I'll ever use it again since the B jnts seem to last 20-30 years.

Can someone explain what is happening in this photo?
Is the torque wrench facing up or down?
It looks like you're screwing in the jack plate!

My guess is that he put a loose socket under the head of the torque wrench so that the torque wrench didn't bind against the jack

Quinlan has it right. The torque wrench is connected to the ball joint socket on top of it. The socket underneath is to reduce friction against the jack plate. The jack puts pressure upwards to keep the ball joint socket from slipping off. This was a one foot in the wheel well and two handed torque job. I didn't want the wrench slipping because the stopping point would have been my nuts!