Pelican Parts Forums - Go forward or not...? 911 SWB

Alex,

Quote:

Business for the SWB is almost done... but I don't want to celebrate it before it is really finished...

When finished, bring us up to speed on the exact condition and your proposed plans.

Now that some time has passed, please re-define your goal.
Writing it down for review may help.

I agree that there is ‘real value’ in starting with an already-imported 911.
What are the rules & taxes about importing ‘used, junk’ parts?
Is there a ‘consolidator’ importer on Madeira who brings containers from the US on a regular basis?
If so, perhaps we can organize palettes of necessary ‘used’ parts and consolidate with goodies from Pelican and other.

The rear suspension and torsion bar tube from a salvage ’84-’89 would be a good ‘junk’ repair part.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/586225-torque-tube-modification-rally-use.html#post5791448

You can convert to the ’69-’89 front suspension.
This works better than the original SWB and there are more choices for components.

It appears the engine has some ‘rust distress’.
You may find it more satisfactory and less cost to start with another engine.
A 3.0/3.2 are available and can be purchased in running condition.

I would prefer a 2.4/2.7 converted for 2.7/2.8 high compression, twin plugs and using your Weber carburetors.
The rules you choose may determine the choice.
The ‘good news’ is you can always change engines easily.

Staying smaller than three liters allows you to use the 901/911 transmission.
Ideally, start with a good 1971 type 911 magnesium transmission.
You can add the large ZF LSD and gear it for your use.

There are good fuel cell inserts made for inside standard fuel tanks – but they are expensive.
A standard fuel cell in the stock location will work fine.

There are good discussions on Pelican about cage design.
First, decide on what rules.
Current SCCA has the widest acceptance.
If you want to ‘improve’ on their requirements, you can submit detailed plans for prior acceptance.

Go talk to your ‘killer sand blaster’ technical person.
See if they can use other media.
Discuss lower air pressure and other to avoid damage.
Technique is also critical as heat from too aggressive process can warp panels.

You will want to remove as much undercoat and debris as possible by ‘manual’ techniques.
There are some good Pelican threads on this subject.

‘Seam welding’ a rusty old chassis is difficult.
You will need to split the seams first in order to have clean (no rust) metal to weld.
This gives you the opportunity to build the chassis with 40+ years hindsight.

In replacing damaged panels, consider using the rear seat tin from ’72 and later.
This allows easy installation of a 915 transmission someday.

You will want to increase the chassis clearance above the outboard CV joint.
You might make provision for it to either be SWB or LWB.

I would retain the ability to have heaters, i.e. reinstall heater tubes in the side frames.

Don’t be tempted to use the ’69-’71 oil pipes in the rocker panels.
The serviceable (replaceable) external oil pipes from ’74-> are best.
When working the chassis, make improved provision for the oil plumbing.
The SWB was not designed with this in mind (particularly inside the RR wheel).

I would compare all the series regulations you might possibly run.
That would be the European FIA-like and USA Historics, PCA, SCCA, NASA and more.
You don’t want to do something that makes it non-complying in some important series.

Start yourself a ‘Personal Workshop Manual and Parts Manual’
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/198381-personal-car-specific-manual.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/387727-my-porsche-library-do-i-have-everything-fixing-my-1972-a.html
You can include images and posts from Pelican and other.
Use the exploded diagrams from Porsche Parts Manuals and 911 Workshop Manuals to show your chassis plans.

Keep us up to date.

Best,
Grady