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Couple of things...no wait, three.
Just like when the wife takes her car to the mechanic to ask him about "that noise" and the car refuses to make the noise. They try endlessly to replicate the conditions where the noise occurs...and it doesn't. Well I picked my crappiest looking starter as it was going to be a core anyway. The place I use in Boulder is Vanatta's Electric, and as the story goes...he got sick of working for IBM years ago, and bought the shop as he likes working with his hands. He is a bit gruff, but knows his stuff. He grabbed the starter and clamped it to his bench tester...clamped on ground and positive, and of course it fired right up. Of course it did :)
I felt like an idiot. The good news was that once the solenoid fired and the starter gear extended...it stayed extended, which was actually bad news for the starter...but in a twisted way, good for me as it showed that the starter did indeed have problems. Not the problem that I claimed, but problems. As I left the shop $150 poorer with my swapped/rebuilt correct Bosch starter...I was ok with that. Hate to install something (with an unknown history) that doesn't work and have to uninstall it to fix (or get it fixed). No, I have never done that :rolleyes: Small but first success of the day http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384652464.jpg I knew that when I committed to swapping the trannie from a pull (70-71) clutch to a push (64-69 and later 72 on) clutch that the clutch cable in the tunnel would need to be replaced with the correct cable. Been kind of putting this off as I dislike fishing things through the tunnel. I had been thinking of a way to make this operation less dis-tasteful. I'm sure this has been done before...but it occurred to me that if I disconnected the cable at the pedal cluster, tied a thick string to the forward end of the new cable and pulled the cable aft being careful not to shear the string...once the cable was free of the tunnel, I could use the string to attach to the forward end of the new correct cable and carefully pull it through the tunnel. My history in pushing things through the tunnel is that they always tend to find obstructions to catch on. Did I say "always". This worked perfectly. There was still some evidence of "media" in the greased old cable that was removed...but the new greased cable installation was a piece of cake. I had to pull up the drivers pedal carpet and wood floorboard to get to the pedal cluster and cable...so I think I will not replace those till I get the engine installed and the clutch cable fully adjusted. Second small success. Last accomplishment was something I was considering when I rebuilt the carbs, but didn't know enough about the circuit to make a decision. The auxiliary enrichment circuit was something I knew people delete...but I wanted to know what it did, why it was there and why it was often deleted. Suffices to say that it was a system that was designed to aid in completed combustion during deceleration...more of an emissions thing. In a separate thread I was schooled as to how it operates and the advantages (modest) in deleting it. Best answer is...simplicity is why I decided to delete it. The system removed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384653890.jpg What remains after removal that needs to be plugged http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384653986.jpg Of the three top row of holes, the center hole needs to be plugged as that is where the fuel is going to come from...the two side holes are attachment holes for the enrichment apparatus...so cosmetic. The tube projecting to the right of the mixture adjustment screw also needs to be plugged, and there are three of these per triple bank of the carbs. I will use these... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384654248.jpg Tapping for the set screws and the results http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384654323.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384654480.jpg Plugged and the lower deleted with JB Weld. Clean. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384654563.jpg My local hardware source did not have a fine thread set screw for the solenoid...so it will act as it's own plug and I plugged the vacuum tube with JB weld also. Interesting as the schematic blow-up in the Haynes manuals (I know, I know) for the zeniths shows these vacuum tubes coming from above the solenoid as fuel lines. This threw me for a loop when I rebuilt the zeniths, and I wanted to understand this auxiliary circuit better before I simply deleted it http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384654855.jpg |
Fuel plumbing...
My pump is mounted on top of the left rear swaybar mount welded to the longitudinal as it heads up under the T-bar to the engine compartment. It sits in a tray which is shock mounted to the swaybar mount. care must be taken when removing the tray as an over zealous hand and ratchet will easily twist the stud out of the rubber bushing that holds it in the tray. Shown is the fresh pump and refurbished tray next to a basic tray
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384741057.jpg The hardware and new braided 6mm and 8mm fuel line http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384741137.jpg We need to use the correct German hose clamps. The cheap US clamps don't work well when new...much less used and over-torqued. Working to get the lines connected http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384741347.jpg And done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384741526.jpg As this was a conversion...not a full restoration, I did what need to be done. Looking at the heater valves...I could not in good conscience bolt up new ducting to the brand new SSIs with valves that looked like crap...so they came out (no sheared studs) ...yay :D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384741696.jpg And will get sandblasted and rebuilt and painted. Easier to do it no before the engine is installed. Yeah, while this area is a bit dirty, fresh valves would be nice. Hey, it is the underside of the car. Road grit, mud and dirt, and maybe some oil. Freshen it up now...it will be dirty soon enough. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384741972.jpg When the wind dies down up here...50 mph gusting to 80, we will open the garage doors a bit and do some sandblasting. Till then...wishful thinking and prep. Speedo |
Into the sand bath
Waiting for a supply shipment...heater ducts and 3 inch clamps, fuel line clamps, fog light cover gaskets. Some stuff I want to get done before the engine goes in. Easier to do with it out vs in. Snow gave UPS the day off apparently. And up here, if it doesn't come Friday, you won't see it till Monday
Just make a list of the "other" stuff that needs to get done...and hammer it out. Like these buggers. Time to clean them up... sand bath time http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308191.jpg Much better http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308248.jpg First pass http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308278.jpg Assembled and ready for install http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308320.jpg Much better http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308571.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308426.jpg Nobody will know how nice these look...at least for a little while. Something in the bottom left corner of the previous picture has been bugging me for a while. The white thing that looks like a shock. A shock imposter :eek: Someone installed a pair of KYB shocks on the car. I can fix that http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385308821.jpg What were they thinking...all better now. Anybody for "cat tv"? Hey, it's what we do in the mountains on snow days :D Lucky for them there is a double pane glass window in between. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385309110.jpg |
Lars, how does the damper shaft thingy come out of the heater valves? I have never looked at one. In the pics above it is just magically apart. Looking forward to seeing u next week. Mark
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Damper shaft thingy
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Once the spring is removed, flip the valve back upright. There will be 40+ years of crud and or rust on the thing...so disassembly will not be obvious. You need a small flathead to pry the tiny speednut up off of the shaft. It is oversprung, so be carefull not to work it too hard and break it. It will come off. Do the same for the other valve, and set the washers aside. With the same small screwdriver, work the round nylon seal up out of the body of the valve. It is also 40 years old...so gentle. Once the seal is free of the shaft, the shaft is now only held in place by the gate/flap that opens and closes inside the valve. The shaft should slide out of the flap. Take a marker and mark the flap with respect to orientation (ie. left back) so that you will know how to reassemble...it is not obvious. With the shaft removed, you can now address the other side. There is another nylon seal that is at the bottom of the shaft that doesn't need to be removed...just be careful when you sandblast the shaft, not to sandblast the nylon to the point where it is unuseable. Here are some more pics that might help. See you in a few days Mark ...bring your Carharts SmileWavy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385313012.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385313042.jpg In the top left corner of this pic you can see the little bits and pieces, the washer/speed nut and the nylon seals. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385313137.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385313214.jpg And once cleaned, primed and painted, just like Haynes says...assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. |
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That phrase is like the pretty girl in High School that said "I just want to be friends". |
After working til 12:30am last night hand sanding Fuchs that's about all I had left of any brain cells. DIY Fuchs is a sucky job. Pays about a nickel per hour, if that.
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SWT hardware
Lars
I was just refered to this thread from a fellow on the Early 911S Registry. I'mm in the middle of a restoration on a 1967S 911 Targa that had been converted to a hard window. No bars for the SWT reconversion. On page two of you Pelican site you said that you had made an extra set of bars. I do have the handles, but need the bars, etc. Any luck on you still having the extra bars? Jerry Garwick Prather, CA |
I'm a jerk...
Gerry,
Sorry. I borrowed a set of bows from a local gent restoring his 67 S softie and I reversed engineered my bows. I had planned to make an extra set :rolleyes: but given the PIA associated with making one set...I retired from that idea. There is a guy up in Canada (Yves) making soft window parts. Search for him on the ESR and see if he has made some bows. Sooo much easier to buy them, than to make them. I will have an extra set of handles available when I am done...but it looks like you have that covered. Do you still have the correct targa headliner with the cutouts for the handles? That was another obstacle that I didn't anticipate, or enjoy. Oh yeah, then there was the search for the targa bar base trim...hope you got that with the car. If I can help, PM me. My mistakes are your gain :) |
Here less than 24 hours and certain family members are driving me crazy. I might have to come to you shop two or three honihn just to stay awake
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SWT hardware
Thanks for the fast reply, Lars. The Targa base trim? Ha...of course not. I do have the correct top headliners, etc. The car was quite a mess when I got it. It had been sitting in the Arizona desert for quite some time. Folks who were at the LA Lit meet swap will remember the "black" targa for sale. That's the one. No engine or transmission, and about an inch of Emron paint. It had been "restored" in 1990. I know the date because it is printed on the newspaper that the guy had used to plug up the rust holes before foaming it with insulation foam and bondo. I have removed about three editions of the Tuson times form that year. The rear sway bar is gone, the front struts are different, and one of the rear trailling arms had apparently replaced - no round bolt for the sway bar attachment on it. But it is a real 1967 911S Targa SWT and worth the restoration. Thankfully I have a rotisserie and after media blasting and welding most of the holes on the top side, I now have it upside down to begin work on the belly. I had a similar Targa in my previously life - a 1968 912 - which I had done a lot of work on, so am familiar with the model and it's issues. I located a 2.2 S engine and webers, plus a proper tranny. It's only time and money. ARRRGHHHH!!!
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hey Lars. how about a pic of you next to your pride and joy. all we've seen so far is a fairly un-appealing left thumb.
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Fine...a picture
So there is a compromise here in the making....:)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385510032.jpg Right side photographs much better...me thinks :D Big weekend coming up for the car. Long punch list in between turkey, turkey sandwiches, turkey soup and ah yes... the infamous turkey tapioca. A mountain favorite. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385510645.jpg If I am lucky and the weather permits, we'll get the fuchs mounted (that will be an Al Reed treat), roll him (remember she became "Sorgenkind") down the concrete apron and blast the year of dust off of him. It has been just a year since I picked the car up/got fleeced by my painter. Damn, this beast is taking way to long. Speedo |
So these don't look right...
Supposed to be the low temp ducts that help move the air from inside the shroud through the ducts and down to the heat exchangers. These look like they are turned inside out...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385774760.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385776534.jpg Originals have a wire spun inside or sandwiched, between a thick foil on the inside and literally paper on the outside. I have some used tubes that I need to check out. I am not inclined to install the pink new tubes. My 40 year old paper tubes are in decent shape. The ends are worn, but the tubes have held up. There is not much temperature on this end, so we'll trim and reinstall these. They have a bit of "patina" and the Porsche world seems to be in love with "patina" these days. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385774855.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385774895.jpg Without the rear license panel/valence, the height of the rear of the car needs to be less than is required for a normal engine drop and removal. And, I have the wheels in dollys which adds an additional 2 inches to the rear height and I don't need to worry about "burying" the front bumper into the concrete while trying to get the rear high enough...done that http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385774933.jpg If I had a lift (which requires minimum 10 ft ceilings) I wouldn't have to use my motorcycle jack and try to pre-determine "the angle of dangle". But I don't so I do http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385775198.jpg "Houston, preparing for re-entry". Not that I now have three 10 lb bags of shot to offset the "angle of dangle" on the motorcycle jack. I am a huge fan of trying to set things up for a reasonably simple one man project. Having company certainly helps, but at the end, it reduces the beer supply. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385775507.jpg It was 60 degrees here in the mountains today and a long mountain ride was in order. I came back with a an hour to kill and as the install was already set up...I couldn't resist. This is always somewhat enjoyable. If it goes smoothly, a one man re-install is a small mile-stone and a confidence builder. With "Sorg" I can use all the confidence builders I can get. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385775614.jpg Piece of cake. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385775804.jpg I'll finish up the wiring and plumbing tomorrow, swap the wheels :D and maybe wash the beast. If all goes well the rear license panel, bumpers and bumper over-riders are next on the list. The weather here is forgiving...almost December...gotta get outside, strike while the iron is hot. |
Lars, you move fast. I guess I should have offered you a hand installing that engine, but the beer and conversation was too good. Had a great time meeting you and talking cars. Joe got my 66 started today so a thread is in order. What heat exchangers are you running on Sorg? New or old SSI's?
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Heat Exchangers...good question
I knew that John was looking to sell SSI and I picked up some MFI heat exchangers from him before he sold to Dansk. I always bought MFI HEs as they work for both MFI and carbs. So the set on the targa are MFI SSIs with the warm up duct capped off. The prices on these jumped...so I am glad I went down this path. I don't always make good decisions....especially as it relates to painters. So maybe I am offsetting my bad decisions with an appropriate number of good decisions :p
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I am fortunate that my 73 had them (SSI's) on it when I got her, but the 66's current HE are in bad disrepair so I will have to make some decisions soon. I guess I could always break out the welder for now.
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Lars, what part number was on those white hoses? I need to order a bunch of heater hoses and I sure don't want those in my engine compartment.
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Ouch...
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The part number starts with MK 911...so I must have ordered it from Mary Kay? Yeah that's it...I had a choice of orange, black or blush. What was I thinking? :eek: It would have been an awkward offset to the Gemini Blue. They totally would have clashed. Never again. |
Halfway installed...
The floor jack is supporting the front of the trannie so that the opening in the tunnel doesn't take all the weight. Great way to deform the opening so that the rubber shift bellows doesn't ever want to fit. The studs for the trannie support were the wrong size, and now that the trannie is bolted to the engine, and the engine is bolted to the car...I need to be careful in replacing the studs so that I don't end up with a snafu. Nuts don't want to go on, so I gently chase the threads
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947142.jpg Nuts went on fine...doubled up and the studs came out easily. New shorter studs installed and front of trannie is now supported by the cradle. Finished up all the underneath "stuff". Ducting from heat exchangers to the refreshed valves, tach connecteted, back up light wiring, hot power to the starter, and the oil line that needs to clear both the right rear shock and the heat exchanger. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947416.jpg Can't wait to get rid of these http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947457.jpg So the rear bumpers are ready to install, but I remembered that I still have work to do before I can install them. First up is the rear deco trim. My aluminum is solid, but needs to be elbow-greased. Both sides are moderately pitted. Hey the front deco was a lot bigger...this should be easier, right? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947696.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385948208.jpg Basic procedure... file down the gouges sand down the file marks with 120 sand down the 120 marks with 180 sand down the 180 marks with 240 rinse and repeat...hey it works. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385948383.jpg Rubber is good, so it gets reinstalled but we will go with new outside beading. Body shops (hack) tend to mask around stuff like this when re-shooting so the old beading is not only stiff/brittle, but also suffers from overspray. Reassemble time...I get to use my new fabbed deco studs http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385948569.jpg |
Passenger side first
Button it up.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385948696.jpg And on to the left side. The rubber holders for the rear reflectors are also old and stiff. I replaced the rusted studs and have new reflectors http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385948818.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385948848.jpg I was worried that trying to force the new lenses into the old holders would do one of two things...1) crack the 42 year old rubber holder, or 2) break the new lens. Solution...I got up early and put some water on to boil... added the rubber holders http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949029.jpg and right before the wife came downstairs and had the chance to ask "what the hell was I cooking on the stove for breakfast"...I rescued the pliable rubber holders and easily installed the lenses...whew :D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949161.jpg Assembled... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949219.jpg And installed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949301.jpg Both sides now http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949413.jpg So I need to work on this guy now http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949473.jpg |
I hate beading...or maybe I just like fiberglass bumpers...
That don't require beading. I needed to clean up my rear bumperettes/overiders.
I picked my best chrome pair and then my best set of rubber bumpers and introduced them to each other http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949854.jpg The beading was a pain, but it is correct...and as I am always correct :rolleyes: I added it where needed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949933.jpg Together now :) So I am a bit frustrated at how much shop debris is evident on the car. And I want to wash it off rather than wipe it off. However (yeah you are going to like this...or I am going to get flamed) the boat trailer is out in front of the garage. I cannot roll the car outside to wash it off with the boat trailer there. We are going to have high winds over the next several days...so for you helpful souls that have suggested the "match" approach to the wood boat...that ain't gonna work. I have potential winter storage for the boat with a guy that runs a cigarette race boat (in Colorado ? Yeah I know...but he is sponsored by all four of the armed forces and has a big shop (story for another day) and is willing to store my wooden boat for a few months...yahoo! SmileWavy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385949983.jpg Wait, it is starting to look like a car! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385950095.jpg You know what this means...fuchs time :D |
Not much to report...just gratuitous pics
I had to treat myself...the shop cookies had to go....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385950953.jpg These are my Al Reed 15x7s with 205 55 15s http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385951032.jpg Dirty car slide (yes I mean't to say slide) shot http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385951059.jpg Funny...with all the dirt on the car, it doesn't look like a resto, looks more like a "barn find". Great, I should start a new thread on how to stage your "Barn find" http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385951491.jpg Oh no :eek: I just found something that I missed....where does it go? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385951949.jpg Not sure whether to recarpet this piece or just re-install as "color". I do have a question as it relates to how this piece is installed. I get it with the notches facing to the rear, but with the angle up or down. Yeah I know this is simple stuff...but I have forgotten more than I have learned...:p http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385952061.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385952131.jpg I have what seems like a longer checklist...the closer I get to being complete. I am more motivated now that I have reached this point. The car is filthy...I still need to rebuild the axles and adjust the E brake....aw hell I still have a ton of stuff to do, but I am closer...if I do a little everyday. |
I am sure others are more accurate than me, but isnt the missing piece the cover for the shifter linkage, which is in the center, just ahead of the rear seats, under the carpeting?
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[QUOTE=speedo;7785099]. I do have a question as it relates to how this piece is installed. I get it with the notches facing to the rear, but with the angle up or down.
I replaced mine (engine bay rubber thingy) the same way that I found the original. I'm pretty sure that the metal strip in the car only accepts that thing one way. And I believe that that would be the opposite of the way you have it laying in the picture. |
Looking good Lars!
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Oh no I just found something that I missed....where does it go?
I was just kidding guys...that is the cover that gives access to the shift coupler through the tunnel on the floor between the rear seats. It is trapezoidal in shape and can only be installed one way. On some early cars it was black, although I have seen cars that had it upholstered/carpeted. It was never to my knowledge painted body color...but I could be wrong. I think under normal circumstances the cover was either black or a complement to the interior carpet/upholstery color. Mine will be painted again...black and get installed once I am confident that my shift linkage-shifter is adjusted correctly.
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No - please don't paint it black. I like the body colored accents.
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Quote:
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Looks nice you are a true craftsman!
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I should start a new thread...
...what is the nastiest (not the hardest or most difficult) chore on an early 911? Well way up towards the top of the chart on my list...would be rebuilding CV joints/axles.
If I was doing this in the middle of summer...the bearing grease inside the joint would be loose and oozy. Given that it is 0 degrees here, dropping to minus double digits at night...even bearing grease turns to frozen sludge. An old school buddy (who used to work at a dealership) showed up last night and asked me why the hell I was completely dis-assembling the axles and CVs. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386295624.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386295674.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386295695.jpg He told me that when clients came to the dealership with a disintegrated boot, they would basically replace the boot and reinstall the axle...and call it good for a replaced axle. I am not going to go down the path of busting the dealers for "motor meistering" the axles...but "while I am in there"...they should be done right. It is an easy , but messy rebuild. The CVs come apart. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386295995.jpg Unfortunately, the rubber boots ordered, were not the boots that arrived. So I am cleaned up and ready to reinstall...waiting for the parts http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386296171.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386296203.jpg |
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Still a bit chilly here...the high "down below" was 6 degrees
Up on "the hill" you usually knock 5-6 degrees off that. Bottom line...tough to get super motivated to go out and work with metal tools. I have a torpedo heater which I treated myself to for a half hour to take the temp in the shop from below freezing to slightly above. :)
So I sourced the correct boots locally yesterday, as well as the steel clutch cable trunion which replaces the cheap plastic oem guy. I was also missing the little rubber bellows that protects the end of the clutch cable where it meets the pivot fork from the trannie. Assembly time. It is easy to get "backwards" when putting the CV back together. It will go back together the wrong way...and be really stiff. Rather non-constant-velocity...ask me how I know. I have never seen an assembly diagram for this, cause I guess most people just chuck the used axle in the trash and order a new one. There was very little wear on the hardware once they were disassembled and thoroughly degreased...so they will work another 40 years. I have only cleaned three of the CVs, as I use the assembled fourth one (cleaned up sort of) as a guide for reassembly of the other three. Once they are done, I'll clean the fourth and do it last. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386465607.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386465626.jpg I'm sure there are lots of ways to do it, but assemble the center of the CV inside the cage, and install two bearings (side by side) at a time. Then with a hand under the bottom of the CV to keep the bearings from dropping out, I shift the cage, and install two more, and then two more. No bearing grease at this point yet. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386465814.jpg With all the bearings installed correctly, it should look like this... but in reality they could be assembled incorrectly and look pretty close to this. The joint just won't be a joint. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386465867.jpg Remember to install the boots and the clamps first...kind of obvious as they will not be easy to install later :D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386465950.jpg A completed end with the big circlip installed...still no grease http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386466003.jpg Goes quickly after the first one http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386466092.jpg I will pack the CV with grease on the boot side and secure the boot with the new clamps, and wait to pack the out side of the cv till I am ready to install the axle so I don't get grease everywhere. Although with the outside temps as what they are, the grease is more like the consistency of ice cream. Maybe the axle install will happen tomorrow. Pretty much a full roll of paper towels to deal with all the old grease...hey strike it off the list! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386466405.jpg |
Most of us tend to learn more when the ugly / yuck elements are not glossed over...and given their full meaning and reverberation. Otherwise, it tends to resemble a Chilton's manual with all left to your imagination. Fwiw...
There was a book 'Adrift' some years back, of a guy who needed to perform all manner of handskills, to save himself at sea. Since it's survival based, it's not everyone's cup 'o tea. But for inspiration it's a dynamo, for hands-on types. Not a love story...though. http://i42.tinypic.com/2nh4200.jpg |
I didn't go to church today...
But my mom did and I think she put a good word in for me....mom? :rolleyes:
I forced myself out to the shop to get something done. I had a few choices... Adjust the ride height on the passenger side rear wheel (mandatory), install the foglight covers (optional), connect the clutch cable to trannie (mandatory), install wiper arms (optional), measure for battery and install...pretty much mandatory. I picked the one I most didn't want to do. Torsion bar adjustment. As I had replaced the non-adjustable spring plates for adjustable spring-plates, my first line of defense was to get the car up in the air and adjust the spring plates to the full deflection that would raise the rear of the car. Loosened and adjusted the plate, secured everything back up, bolted the wheel back on the hub, lowered the car...and voila. Crap, still too low. Ok, time to index the torsion bars. I like doing this...really :( Maybe I should just crush my non-essential digit on my left hand in a vice. So everything gets loosened back up, and I get to pry the TB back out of the tube. Good news is that it comes out (relatively) easily as it was only recently installed :) I scribed a mark on the longitudinal for the original spring plate "angle of dangle", and I scribed a new line for the adjusted spring plate at "full adjustment". So my new "angle of dangle" is going to be below both of those. I played with the inner and outer splines to reach a decent compromise and bolted everything back up with a "leap of faith". Yank the jack stands and evaluate... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386556298.jpg Given that I originally moved the adjustment to full tilt ride height...and the car was still too low, before I indexed the TBs I neutralized the adjustment. Here I am after the indexing...with now the option to raise the ride height another half to three quarters inch. I like the current height personally...but I tend to err on the lower side http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386556465.jpg I decided that a small achievement was in order. Too early for beer...and it is Sunday :D so I decided to install the foglight block-offs. Earlier in the thread I made the ill-advised attempt to permanently weld the openings shut. Bad idea. Bad idea for several reasons... but just a bad idea. So I am a rehab'ed fog light guy...who still wants to get rid of the fog lights. The before.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386556965.jpg The during http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386557008.jpg And the after...big improvement. I'm sorry, but bad stuff happens 6 inches above the road at speed and I am just not a fan of repairing these fog light lenses. I would rather install the above bumper fog/driving lights (although I am not a huge fan of those also)...anyways...done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386557296.jpg My clutch cable turns out to be incorrect...new on gets picked up tomorrow. Wiper arms and new blades are done. Cold slows the motivation...but I have insulated Carharts. I am warming (not due to the current temps) to the car. My engine "fire-up" buddy is willing to schedule something soon...Chris are you out there....? |
Gotta tackle something...finish up the axles
Got the CV right boots, and clamps. Need to pack the CVs with grease , slip the boot up over the flange on the CV and tighten the clamp. Sounds easy, right? Anything that "sounds" easy usually comes back to bite me. There is a reason people just throw axles away. It is the bearing grease. I'm not sure what it is actually made of...but it reminds me of the first diaper I changed after my children were born. Remember, it is called macadam. Sticks to anything. Then it sticks to anything you try to use to wipe it off....push repeat. The first attempt to get the lip of the boot (slimy thing) up over the lip of the flange took me a good hour. I perfected a technique using ...nope, not going to tell you. Selling the trade secret. :D
Second one took 5 minutes...third and fourth took a minute each. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387763264.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387763287.jpg Anyway, crappy job that is done. I even used the correct clamps...I'm proud of myself for not taking the easy pipe clamp route http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387763307.jpg Let's get these puppies installed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387763910.jpg I need twice as many of the bolts as I can find. I guess I forgot that both ends of the axles get grease too. So much for my temporary nirvana. Don't forget these...really. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387764058.jpg Here...have a taste before I install. Rasberry flavored...grease :rolleyes: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387764126.jpg And done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387764160.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387764189.jpg Now when I put the car in gear in the shop to prevent it from rolling backwards...it won't roll backwards...don't ask |
My damn punch list keeps growing longer
These are a simple install...confidence builder. No issues once they get cleaned up, greased and ...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387764751.jpg Installed. Oh yeah, these are the wedge bolts for the front struts. Bad to forget to install these. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387764889.jpg The fuel bar in the engine compartment is next. Go ahead and flame me for two lame projects back to back. Hey, I need confidence builders after the axles. I bought a bunch of the #12 clamps (not enough) and the carbs need to get the attention first http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765069.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765104.jpg The factory fuel bar http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765191.jpg I want to make it a bit more symmetrical. I want this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765266.jpg To look more like this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765299.jpg And we do http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765333.jpg Installed minus the missing clamps I specifically told myself to buy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765410.jpg Looks a lot better http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765572.jpg So yeah I cheated an scratched two little items off the list. The list is long and I am doing the best I can given that it is cold outside and inside the shop. But hey...the most important day of the year was yesterday! Winter solstice! The days are getting longer by 3 whole minutes a day! Whoohoo! I noticed the difference today already. Daylight savings here in the states is (a topic for a completely different thread) a colossal waste of anything. What a hugely dumb idea...just say'in. Happy holidays to everyone out there. Cheers! Speedo |
Quote:
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765410.jpg
Looks a lot better http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387765572.jpg Lars, I see your weber air filters look like K&N's. Do you replace yours or clean them periodically by washing them off? If wash, what do you wash with and then treat them with, thanks, Mark |
webers and secrets
Mark,
I follow the directions with the "rejuve" K and N spray kit. As I remember I do a light pressure spray inside and out, then spray the magic oil back onto the filters. The CV boot explanation I am a bit reluctant to divulge...seems like it out to require some suffering, a rite of passage. I definitely suffered, covered many tools including myself with grease...and swore several times while wondering how come after all this time I never bought "the tool". There is one, isn't there? Anyway, slide the boot on the axle till the small end "seats". Spoon in the grease trying hard not to get it everywhere...or just give up because it will ultimately get everywhere regardless. Wipe it on your Carharts, all over your gloves etc...just get it over with. The key to get this started is use your two hands (left and right) to get the back half of the boot over the back half of the flange, and your third (center) hand to pull the front half of the boot over the front half of the flange...without letting the greasy back half slip off. If you lost your third hand somewhere, here is the alternative...the boot and where it starts. Grease is already applied to the inside of the CV. Be nice about the artwork :) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387851869.jpg Grab two long narrow screwdrivers...Phillips or flat head. Irrigate the area under the small end of the boot with WD-40. One at a time, carefully work the screw drivers into the small end of the boot, towards the CV joint. Be carefull here. These are new boots. Don't get aggressive and poke the screwdriver through the new rubber boot, or worse yet as you are likely pulling towards yourself...don't poke yourself in the abdomen. I think the Japanese call this seppuku. The screwdrivers will be crossed do to the geometry of everything going on. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387852238.jpg Work the screwdrivers towards the joint and slowly put the tips up onto the flange on the CV. Just rest the end of each on the ridge. If they extend too far over the lip, the rubber boot can catch and tear. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387852372.jpg Now with your greasy-slimy hands holding both sides of the boot (with the back edge already over the back of the flange), work the top of the boot up towards you. It will "ride" up the shafts of the screwdrivers and over the top of the flange http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387852530.jpg As soon as the boot arrives up over the flange, be careful that the ends of the screwdrivers have not moved much as they will destroy the lip of the boot. With one hand, circle the circumference of the CV flange holding the seated boot, and with the other hand, carefully remove the screwdrivers by pulling them out backwards through the small end of the boot. Clean the seated edge of the boot with thinner to cut the grease ...in fact clean the whole CV at this point, and secure the clamp. It is that easy...1 and 2 were a bear, but 3 and 4 were cake. Clean yourself up and have a beer. :p Speedo |
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