I really didn't want a project this big....yet...

[will hung]

I used a torch, then I used Marine Clean and a Scotch pad.

[DaddyGlenn]

If having the right tools for the job is one of the best things in life, then having new Pelican friends willing to lend you the right tools is right up there, too.

A great big "THANKS" to Greg for the loan of a slide hammer puller and his Home Depot sourced rear bearing tool. I was able to get the hubs out in about 20 minutes and just popped out one of the rear bearings.

Greg, I can see how you could stretch the all thread. It was mega tight before it "popped" and started cooperating.

I hope to have time this weekend to get the second bearing out, clean up the arms and install the new bearings.

BTW - you were absolutely right about the Trailing arm inner bushings. They do have metal sleeves. So I've got another challenge ahead of me.

Pictures of old bearings and inner bushing sleeve calling to follow.

[kiwi 911]

Run Forest.........Run............

[DaddyGlenn]

When I pulled the rear hubs, the outer bearing races came out with them. So here is what 33 year old bearings can look like...





and finally, I've got to figure out how to pull these metal sleeves out. I haven't tried anything yet so any ideas would be appreciated. My first thought is to try to get a screwdriver under one of the edges.

[will hung]

Don't use a screwdriver. You want to avoid gouging the aluminum. I used (recommended buy Chuck Moreland) a cutting disk from a Dremel. Once you get a pretty good slice in it, it comes right out.

[DaddyGlenn]

Originally Posted by will hung

Don't use a screwdriver. You want to avoid gouging the aluminum. I used (recommended buy Chuck Moreland) a cutting disk from a Dremel. Once you get a pretty good slice in it, it comes right out.

Slice vertically on the inside (with the ridges)?

[will hung]

Originally Posted by DaddyGlenn

Slice vertically on the inside (with the ridges)?

See the attached picture. You want to slice across the sleeves. It's tough to get a cutting wheel in there, so work slowly and cut across it how ever you can.

The sleeves are held in by pressure created by the OD of the sleeve being bigger than the ID of the trailing arm. When you slice across the sleeve, it relieves that pressure. Then it can be tapped out using a hammer and very small punch.

I wish I had a pic of it, but if you look very closely in the bore of the trailing arm, between the gap in the 2 sleeves, there is another hole in the trailing arm casting. After I sliced the sleeves, I set my punch against the lip of the sleeve directly over that hole. That way the edge of the punch is setting in that hole so it won't gouge the aluminum.

[DaddyGlenn]

Got it! Thanks.

[81 SC Ray]

Subscribed!!! Keep up the great work. Please continue to keep us informed with pics. Love to watch the progress. I have a lot of respect for all of you on this site that have kept our beloved cars on the road.

[DaddyGlenn]

Removing the trailing arm bushings.

As Will mentioned there is a hole in the arm under the bushings. This is where you want to cut because it reduces the risk of going too deep and cutting into the arm.

Jumping ahead so you can see the hole. This is after the bushing was removed.



I used a dremel type tool but because of the size I could not cut a straight line But had to cut a curve over the hole. Cut slowly and carefully. You really don't want to get so deep that you hit the aluminum of the arm underneath.




Then place a screwdriver or punch on the inner lip and give it a few taps. And out it comes. Just like that.

[gregwils]

Glenn - glad the tools worked out. Please be careful with my valuable Home Depot specials, I think I might have over $10 invested in them, possibly as much as $11.

On a more serious note, the challenge when installing the bearings is to keep them properly aligned as you draw them into the trailing arm. The bearing needs to be pretty straight - aligned with t-arm openeing. If it is off a degree or two, it will probably straighten itself out as it gets deeper. If it is too great an angle, it can get jammed as you continue to crank down on the all tread. I would throw the bearings in the freezer the night before, it may only buy you a thousandth, but every little bit helps. It is tight going in too. You may want to take a few measurements in advance so you can be sure you know when the bearing will be fully seated in the arm.

[DaddyGlenn]

Greg, you have no idea how helpful they were/are. I was able to use one of the smaller gear pullers to help get the bearing races off the hubs.

I've taken the day off and am currently siting in front of the parts washer scrubbing nuts, bolts springs and other odds and ends from the rear suspension. Later I'll slide over to the blast cabinet and strip a couple other parts so I can paint them.

[will hung]

I'm really glad it worked out for you. And that my brain isn't so broken that I was remembering something else!

The rear bearings are something that's scarey at first, but once you install 1, it isn't nearly as scarey. Just make sure that after you install the bearing that you install all the emergency brake parts before installing the hub. Ask me why I'm offering that advice.

[DaddyGlenn]

I can imagine why. I don't want to go there. I'll leave the hubs for very last.

[will hung]

I had a 2 brain fart moments. I was waiting for stub axles to finish putting my car together, so it had no axles installed, but was otherwise together. While I waited for the stub axles to be delivered, I figured I'd change my gearbox fluid. My jack wouldn't fit under the front with the back in the air. So I put it on 4 wheels, lifted the driver's side, heard a crack, and realized like a dummy that without the axles installed to secure the hub laterally, when I applied the weight of the car on 2 wheels, I broke the wheel bearing. So I didn't think much of myself at that moment.

So I ordered a new wheel bearing, put it back in the air, re-installed my bearing and then the hub. I then grabbed the E-brake hardware and held it up to the hub. Then I shouted a series of profanities in my garage. So I proceeded to ruin the new wheel bearing while pulling the hub so that I can fix the giant blunder I had committed.

If learning from your mistakes makes you wiser, I'm going to be the wisest old fart in Pittsburgh.

[DaddyGlenn]

Well then there is a competition in Pittsburgh. 'Cause I'm getting wiser everyday in the same (but not as extreme) manner.. :-D

[DaddyGlenn]

First rear bearing in! I used some wheel bearing grease to lube the arm, froze the bearing, got it all lined up with Greg's tool and started cranking. I needed a couple taps with a hammer to get it started straight but once it was going, there was no problem.



Then a couple bolts and the backing plate (if that is what its called) was on.



Got wiser by doing the next step twice. Trick is to assemble the e-brake before putting it on the arm.



And Done!! I'll leave the hub and axle for after the arm is back on the car.

[DaddyGlenn]

Pulled the oil tank today and found this...



I am interested to see what I find when I strip the paint of the right rear fender.

[DaddyGlenn]

Rear suspension parts back from the East Liberty Electroplating.



So the next big question is, do I lube or glue the Neatrix bushings?

[redridge]

ER rubber bushings use glue....

as for the trail arm... I used a hack saw just to relieve the pressure, then pry right off.





use bolts to squeeze in the new bushings...