Removing the driver side door....how tough?

Sunroof · 09-25-2010, 07:10 AM

I was replacing the door stop in my driver side door (1973.5T) and noted that the support bracket welded inside the door for the door stop was cracked and needs to be repaired. It would be a stretch to do the repair (weld) with the door attached.

I have read that door removal can be tough due to alignment and fit and should be left to the experts. However, it seems to me to be as simple as removing two hinge pins.

Can someone chime in on this, please. What is the proper procedure for door removal on the older longhoods. I have no electronics (mirror or window). Does the door come off by removing the hinges or pins? And could I expect if its pins alone would re-installation provide a perfect fit?

Thanks

Bob
73.5T

1990C4S · 09-25-2010, 07:23 AM

First thing to do:

Tape the front edge of the door, and the mating edge of the fender. Double layer. Otherwise you will wreck the paint.

Second: get a dolly or a helper, you can do it alone, but its not easy.

On the 'newer' cars, you just scribe an out line around the hinge position on the B-pillar, then pill the bolts.

Be careful not to mix up the shims behind the hinge.

Re-Install is just the opposite with a bit of wiggling and fitting.

ossiblue · 08:11 AM

The door is designed to be removed by taking out the hinge pins, as you suspect. The problem for the DIY is that, ideally, you will need a special tool to do it or you'll need to fabricate something like the one Porsche uses. (Others have removed/replaced the pins without the tool so it can be done but it is a PITA). If you look closely at the pins, you'll see the difficulty in simply removing or replacing them with a drift and a hammer--you'll have clearance problems with the top dog leg of the fender, and the lower rocker sill. The tool is essentially a slide-hammer with a "foot" attached to the bottom that fits around the head of the pin. The off-set of the foot allows the handle of the slide hammer to miss the dog leg of the fender, and also to "pound up" above the door sill.

Since this is a specialty tool and the alternative to remove the pins is difficult, most resort to removing the hinges, as described by 1990C4S, above. If I can find a picture of the tool, I'll post it. I have seen pictures on this forum of fabbed ones too. Hopefully, someone else can add picts or descriptions of removing the pins that doesn't require the too.

Here's a thread I found that may help: Door removal sucks

kidrock · 09-25-2010, 02:38 PM

IIRC, someone posted here earlier stating that you could disconnect part of the door stop, therefore allowing the door to open completely...which would allow free access to the door pins. I have not done this personally, so I cannot vouch for the final results...but it makes sense...you may need to remove the door cards to do this.

Personally, I have removed the doors before. I made marks on the hinges and posts, and carefully made notes of the locations of the shims as I removed the door. Reinstallation was no problem, everything lined up perfect and I had no body line issues.

nineball · 09-25-2010, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Second: get a dolly or a helper, you can do it alone, but its not easy.

i made my own "helper" out of some scrap 2x4 pieces

4sd911 · 09-26-2010, 08:41 AM

I've done this before and will be doing it again shortly for the same reason as yours. I find it easier to remove most parts from the door to make it lighter, like the window, frame, ect. As stated above double tape the edges to help prevent chips. I use a pencil (red) to mark the location of the hinges. Just be very careful once door is back on to close slowly making sure it doesn't rub anywhere.