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Ignition Switch Question

Well after 37 years I guess my ignition switch is going under. I have to turn it 4 or 5 times before I hit the starter spring.
Can anyone rebuild these or do I buy a new one?
Can they be rekeyed to my old key?
I notice this site sells the electrical part only, is this where the spring resides?

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1973 911S (since new) RS MFI specs
1991 C2 Turbo
Old 10-28-2010, 09:44 AM
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There are numerous places to get it...

Here is the link for our host. I did mine.. Its not too bad of a job. Probably easier to Re-Key your doors (they actually make a kit for this) than to Re-Key the ignition.. but Ill defer to the experts...

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 964-347-917-01-M100
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling.
Old 10-28-2010, 09:51 AM
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Holy crap....642 bucks. I'd try Parts Heaven or dC Automotive first.....
Old 10-28-2010, 10:46 AM
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Yes. It is pricey. But it will last another 35 years. I wouldnt buy a used one since a 30 year old used one is going to have a potentially short life. As an FYI... they are $180 at DcAutomotive (used).

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Holy crap....642 bucks. I'd try Parts Heaven or dC Automotive first.....
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling.
Old 10-28-2010, 10:58 AM
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What about putting a starter button in? Would that work?
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1973 911S (since new) RS MFI specs
1991 C2 Turbo
Old 10-28-2010, 11:00 AM
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My opinion is that they will last longer if lubed on a regular basis.
Old 10-28-2010, 11:02 AM
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yes. i dont see why it wouldnt work.. or you could try a used one if money is an issue.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling.
Old 10-28-2010, 11:02 AM
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I could be wrong, but it is usually the electrical plug (contains the spring I beleive) that goes bad. Sometine the little "T" shaped key breaks, but can be repaired with some ingenuity.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:06 AM
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So you think that if I replace the electrical portion the spring is in that smaller part?
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1991 C2 Turbo
Old 10-28-2010, 11:09 AM
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I beleive that to be the case and will check my spare I have at home tonight.
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Robert Williams
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSTarga View Post
Can they be rekeyed to my old key?
Yes. They can be rekeyed to match your old key. Your key blank must be in good condition though. I have rekeyed over 100 of these.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:21 AM
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I replaced my switch last year, just the electrical part. It does in fact have the spring in it. Replacing it is quite a chore. Be prepared to spend some time with your head under the dash and your feet facing the back glass. Also the phillips screws require some ingenuity to remove.

Good Luck,
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSTarga View Post
I notice this site sells the electrical part only, is this where the spring resides?
It is on mine ('77), the key portion of the lock just has a "church key" that fits into the electrical portion of the switch and there's no springing at all on the lock itself.

Note that the newer (cheaper) electrical portion has a lock-out mechanism that the older (more expensive) electrical portion doesn't have - the lockout gives you one chance to hit "start", then if you release the key to "Run", you have to turn it off altogether before you can hit "start" again, whereas the older design allows you to hit "start" from "run" as many times as you like without needing to turn it off in between attempts (I much prefer this behavior).

With suitable tools and patience, you can change just the electrical portion of the switch. On mine, it's a pair of slotted screws holding it on - but the screw next to the underside of the dash is quite awkward to remove.
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:01 PM
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With the cost of early and late ign. switches, I suggest adding a remote switch to minimize wear at the crank position.

Here's my attempt:
Remote Starter

Sherwood
Old 10-28-2010, 12:29 PM
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Before you do anything, try squirting a bunch of WD40 through the key hole with one of those thin tubes, and then turning the key several times and then repeat. I had similar problem as yours and this solved my problem completely.
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:40 PM
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WD40 first then Electric switch if that doesn't work.
I think that remote start switch is neat. Beats 650dls
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1973 911S (since new) RS MFI specs
1991 C2 Turbo
Old 10-28-2010, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwakil View Post
Before you do anything, try squirting a bunch of WD40 through the key hole with one of those thin tubes, and then turning the key several times and then repeat. I had similar problem as yours and this solved my problem completely.
Or, liquid graphite.

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Old 10-28-2010, 01:43 PM
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