If I were dropping the engine, I would...

[boyo]

Woo hoo! Finally found some pretty substantial funds to get in and fix up my '72 911T. It needs some tranny work (who's got 1st?) and I probably should take this opportunity to give it the full treatment.

My short term goals are to keep the car running reliably for 2-3 years. Long term I'm thinking an upgrade using the same engine to beef up the power, but uncertain yet. I'm not ready to commit to a full top end rebuild...yet.

Here is my list so far. What would you do while the engine is dropped?

1. Fix all oil leaks
2. Check and re-torque all studs
3. Degrease and make it purty (paint, etc.)
4. Check tensioners and ramps (has "collared" tensioners already)
5. Possibly upgrade to oil fed tensioners (just because I can)
6. Replace heat exchanger and muffler (what's left of them)
7. New hoses, vacuum lines, engine mounts, etc.


Now given the age of the engine, and the fact that Mr. Anderson warns about worn valves and the inevitable self destruction of the engine should a valve dislodge itself... What sort of inspection or cheap insurance is advised at this time?

And finally, what performance improvements can and should be done at this time? (Besides painting my 911T head shield red to look like a 911S...)

-Boyo

[Eric Coffey]

It is a lot easier to do a valve job with the engine out as well. I would replace the rear main seal, oil return tubes, and oil pressure/sensor near the top/back of the motor too.

[epbrown]

Sounds like a good list. For me, I'd also clean the engine bay, maybe replace the sound padding if it's ratty, and perhaps paint the fan? I'd skip painting the shroud - that hints of "ricer." A "T" is nothing to be ashamed of - why hide it?

Emanuel

[ChrisBennet]

Don't forget the o-ring for the thermostat (up on top of engine near oil cooler).

[Wayne 962]

101 Projects has a list of just about everything that you should replace (seals-wise) when you have the engine out.

http://www.101projects.com

On a side note, you can do all that without dropping the engine. I wouldn't bother...

-Wayne

[ChrisBennet]

Wayne, are you really posting at 4:00am? Go back to bed!

[rob911]

I was going to refer to http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56193 the same question I asked.

Maybe I will take wayne's advice and just drop my transmission to overhaul it.

Can I do "the usual suspects" from all the must do oil leak fixes with the engine in and gearbox out of the way.
101 projects is on the way soon (wife failed to deliver at christmas - how many hits were needed )

[tobluforu]

Change the trailing arm bushings

[bob tilton]

boyo,
may i ask as to how you plan to resolve your tranny? i am in the same boat as you. first gear growls like a bear. do you plan to replace first, rebuild the existing tranny, or buy used tranny? just curious. thanks.
bob
68 L

[StuttgartDavid]

While it is tempting to wail on the head studs when you can, be careful. I would simply check that they aren't loose or broken. If they aren't, they were probably torqued properly to begin with, and still are (otherwise, they would break or come loose...). Trying to go all the way to the published torque spec "just to be sure" could risk over-torquing them or pulling a stud if you aren't careful.

[motion]

Wayne - just a note... with the best intentions...

When you show your sample projects on 101 Projects, you have the book scans in Jpeg format. They are HUGE! If you convert them to GIF they will look just as good (or better) and will be much smaller and less painfull for folks to view.

My 2 cents...

[emcon5]

Originally posted by tobluforu
Change the trailing arm bushings

At the very least, check the torque of the trailing arm bolts. When I did my clutch, I found one of the nuts was about to fall off.

That would have sucked.

Tom