Brake line routing for Brembo GTO BBK
 

What have folks done for the brake line routing on the Brembo GTP brake kit - trying to figure out what is best and others have done for the routing:

Here is what is looks like - not sure if this is right or not?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423776.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423815.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423843.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423861.jpg

Thoughts?

Thanks

Hey Dawger,
I don't have pictures, but the tab on the strut is where the hard line meets the softline (from the factory). What I did is make a new hardline from the caliper to that tab and used the factory softline. I have 930 brakes, but the process was the same. I rented, with a few other Pelicans, a brake line flaring tool, which was a really nice tool and idiot proof.

I bought the bulk line and fittings from the company who rents the tool. If you search around here, you'll find the info about the company.

Search on 70socalrsr (Fernando) and you'll find some nice pics. He documented his project, I think. He was one of the three of us who rented the tool.

Doug

OK - sounds like the 930 install is a little different? So I don't have an issue with the SS line all in one like the pics show - I can see a hard line from the caliper to the strut tab though(obviously my factory one will not work. But then what about from the hard line to the hard line on the body just a regular SS line? The SS lines with the kit will be too long then...

These lines came with the kit and it seems like they work - no binding and good quality so not sure I want to ditch them.?

I was thinking of just running them through the tab on the strut - ?

The 930 caliper is slightly different, but not a lot. There is a hardline from the master cylinder to the fender, as seen in your pic. Then a stainless braided in my case and then another hard line out to the caliper from the tab.

What if you put a rubber bushing in the tab on the strut and routed the line through the hole in the tab? Is there room for a bushing?

You can adjust some of the play with the fitting at the caliper.

If you have a lot extra flex line, you could zip tie the line parallel to the strut and use some cut hose to insulate.

Or fab up something which attaches to the existing tab on the strut.

One way or another, I'd make sure it has play for motion of the a-arm, but doesn't rub on anything. Master of the obvious here :D
Doug

Yeah I figured a question like this was probably a duh - does it rub or bind? ;) it doesn't seem too...lock to lock is fine.

I guess what threw me was I bought new hardlines and spring retainers for, from the caliper to the stut housing, and like an idiot didn't take into account there is no way they will work and the caliper is in a completely different position...the the SS lines from the kit seem to work, the ends will not go through the strut bracket, the banjo fitting on one end is too big and the other nut fitting is even bigger.

I guess in my mind I needed clarification on either - hey you routed them wrong here is the right way - or with this setup do what works doesn't bind etc...

I was thinking to notch/cut a line in the strut tab, bend them open, slide the SS line in with a grommet or bushing and leave it at that...is that ghetto? I also thought about the tie wrap too but that didn't seem like a good solution as there was no real place to tie it properly.

You are missing a plastic clip
this is what it's supposed to look like, when you use 1 long flex line

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291466914.jpg

the better way to do it is to use a hardline from the caliper to the strut, use a factory clip at the strut and then a shorter flex line to the chassis

OK - where can I source that clip from (I don't have the brake pad wear sensor bracket on the strut anymore) I guess that will fit on the brake line bracket in the front.

If not where is the best place to get lines and fittings?

That bbk kit is sold by Race Technologies and should have included the clip. You might try calling them or the vendor you purchased it from.


If not all you really need is to secure the section that passes by the strut, the goal is to eliminate any chafing, that's why using a hard-line to the strut then going to a flex is better

From what I recall, they never included the clip in the kits we bought. But it is not hard to secure the line to the strut in a similar fashion.

Cheers

Right - I think that would make the kits too specific...so I am just ging to make hardlines from the caliper to the strut mount front and rear and use the standard SS lines from the strut to the body - rear as well.

I posted a question about sizes of OEm lines and fittings - trying to buy the parts from FedHill but I need the sizes of the oem fittings and lines....

Update - per Bill's suggestion - hard line from the caliper to the strut tab, correctly sized SS line from strut tab to body hard line:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163644.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163671.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163707.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163761.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163793.jpg

So I need to do the other side - and then the rears...I got the SS lines from Pelican and ordered the DOT "approved" version - but mine don't have the yellow tag...not sure if they stopped doing this or I was sent the wrong ones - here is the package:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292164157.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292164189.jpg

P-Dawger,

Do you actually drive your car or is it a museum piece ... lol
That seems like an awesomely clean underside from what the pictures show !
You must have put many hours into it !

Cheers !
Phil

Thanks - Well it is currrently undergoing a suspension redo. I have 33k on the clock and figured while I am in there (as we all do) why not refurb wherever I am. It does not take as much time as you think, just lots of cleaning and lots of use of the die grinder to clean stuff up. It will be back on the road this spring. The car has been stripped of everything, it will have two seats and a rollbar and that is about it for the interior.

Nice job!

Thanks - anyone have any routing pics for the rears?? - the brake line inlet is way down at the bottom of the caliper so haed line is going to be fairly long to meet the SS line/hard line junction. Also I am thinking I will need some type of clip to mount somewhere on the arm to make the span.

The 930 calipers take-off point for the hard line connection is also at the bottom of the caliper. It banjos off of the crossover tube and therefore makes a long run upward and then inward to the flex line on the trailing arm. Do search for a picture of the rear 930? I'm not near my car right now, plus its nose-up getting a new splitter and quick release bumper installation done that's not getting done all by itself......... :mad: So I can't easily take a picture even if I was home right now! Sorry....

Something like this, similar to what you did in the front
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292264788.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292264872.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292264935.jpg

So an oem 930 line would work (at least get me close)?

Bill - right idea. The issue is on the GTP rears is the brake fitting is at the very bottom - your pic looks to be more in the middle and alos looks like an OEM line/routing. The lines are a bit different, way down almost at the bottom of the caliper so I need to work the line to come back up the face of the banana arm and then over to the SS line connection.

I was wondering if the 930 brake line might work

Then you just have to bend the brake lines around from the caliper feed to the oem break, run you stainless from there as you did in front. It is easier and cleaner when the feed are centered