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Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 155
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exhaust studs broke-Help :(
I was taking my old heat exchangers off today to make room for SSI's and One of my studs broke flush to the header flange, 4 studs backed completely out, and the rest of the nuts came off easily. Since there is a little meat left on the stud that brok do you think i should weld a nut onto it and then wrench it out? While im in here should I replace all the studs or will they probably break? Or just do the ones that backed out? What is the technique for installing them? red loctite or anything? Trying to get back on the road asap, thanks in advance you guy sare the best.
Last edited by michael pagano; 12-17-2010 at 02:33 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 951
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From a specification standpoint, it's difficult to comment since the alloy grade is not mentioned. Maybe you can call Pelican and they can tell you what it actually is?
On welding the nut ..... I'm sure others will chime in since this is not uncommon. Just be very cautious, if you do weld, make sure you have a good ground close the stud you are working on. Otherwise, current could find a pathway across your bearings. As a matter of fact, that should be one of my questions: where is the best place to ground? |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: St Louis
Posts: 4,211
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If welding doesn't work this may be of interest.
Does anyone sell a fixture for drilling broken exhaust studs
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Rick 88 Cab |
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RETIRED
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There was a few recent threads on this. Do a search.
MY best suggestion is to get a flat piece of steel, drill a hole the size of the stud and then place it over the stud. Weld a big old goober over it. THEN using MAPP gas, slightly tighten and then back it off. Otherwise you'll need a jig and a drill.....or an extractor. There are a couple of people who have jigs for sale or rent and the threads have links to new units. Those fasteners are nice, pricey.....depends on how many times they will be on or off.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Regarding the new exhaust studs, just make sure that they are the right length for your SSI flanges (thick or thin?).
I installed new exhaust studs during my rebuild. Used loc-tite (red I think) on the stud threads going into the head. Then used a bit of anti-seize on the exhaust nuts. This helps prevent the stud from turning out of the head if you have to remove the nut in the future. Good luck!
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82 911SC Coupe Chiffon / Chocolate 9.5 JEs, 964 Cams, SSIs, Dansk Exhaust, CIS (SOLD) |
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Capitalist and Patriot
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Freedomville
Posts: 1,923
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Here's some good info:
Broken Exhaust Stud (picture) A tail of burnt spaghetti and broken exhaust studs. I'll be doing this very soon and prepared for the inevitable by reading these threads and the one listed above by Joe Bob Good luck and post up your progress!
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Former Test driver & Production Manager Singer Vehicle Design 2009 Cayenne GTS, '81 911SC RoW Targa (lot's of goodies), '86 535csi, '84 633 csi (turbo charged-sold) ![]() ![]() "Dream it, Believe it, Decide it, DO it " |
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Registered
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Hi
I used EDM, which simply removes the broken stud by means of electricity. It is an awesome piece of equipment. Hard to find though |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 155
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I dont have access to EDM, but i have penty of welders and such available. opinions in this tool?- Laser Tools | 3986 | Impact Stud Extractor 1/2"D
Im not going to be taking the SSI's off for years hopefully, but what is the part number for stainless studs from ARP? I cant find it. Should i replace all and risk breaking the ones that stayed in or just fix whats broke...following the saying dont fix what aint broke? I will try welding the nut, a friend is a expert welder. It that doesnt work ill try the extractor or welding a tab on....then i guess i have to break out the evil drill...sound right? Thanks fopr all your help through this harrowing experience...lol |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newcastle, WA
Posts: 966
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Get Christian's tool. It's perfect for drilling out the stud without damaging the threads.
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