shifter coupling replacement tips

[jwakil]

Today I replaced my rear shifter coupling bushings. I had read a few postings about how easy it was to break the housing trying to get the pin out to remove the bushings, so I was trying to find cleaver ways to apply a load only on the pin and yoke and not on the housing. The easiest way I found to remove the pin was to cut away the bushing from one side (knife or small screw driver to cut/dig it out). Then place a long 5/8 socket into the space where the bushing was. This fits just right and lets you press the pin out from the other side, with no load on the housing. You can either use a vice like I did or maybe hammer it out.

The other problem I found was trying to repress the pin into the yoke after replacing the bushings. Here I just put the housing into the vise and tried pressing the pin in. After I got about 98% of the pin in, the last part was very tough, and I knew I could end up crushing the new bushing since the Yoke is now pushing against the bushing. I decided 98% was good enough and left the pin slightly (1mm) out on one side. The yoke is still centered in the housing, which is what's important and the pin isn't going to come out. I think this is better than crushing and deforming the new bushing.

[tabasco]

I like your idea for the removal, even though damaging the old bushings is usually not an issue, and it would be quicker. Your method would be better for the tough ones.

For the installation, you can also freeze the pin (20 mn in the freezer), and warm up the outer part (heat gun, oven...).
That plus a good cleanup, it almost goes in by hand.

-Guillaume