anyway to adjust clutch pedal engage point

[tbahr]

I just adjusted my clutch on my 83 SC per the tech article, everything shifts great, although my clutch seems to engage more at the top of the pedal.

On my friends 78 SC, his engage point is more at the middle of the clutch pedal. I liked that feeling more than at the top.

Any thoughts?

[mike_dunn]

Subscribed. I just did an adjustment and the engage point moved forward as well; no complaints, but I'm interested to hear advice/tips from others.

[mpetry]

You need to adjust the "borden tube", this is the black tube thru which the clutch cable travels alongside the transmission.

It has 2 brass nuts / collars that secure it to the transmission, near the clutch arm. If you reduce tension on the borden tube at that adjustment point, you can change the tension on the clutch cable, which will change the engagement point (assuming your clutch is not completely worn out). Make small changes - only 1 turn at a time, toward the rear of the car.



check out the procedure and pics here:

Pelican Technical Article: Replacing and Adjusting the 911 Clutch - Page 1

[RWebb]

Bowden

[tbahr]

These are the two nuts I adjusted to get the set screw gap from 1.2 mm to 1.0mm.

I first backed off the nut toward the rear end of the car and tightened the nut that is toward the front of the car until my gap was 1.0mm and then snugged down the other nut.

I know before my clutch adjustment tonight, the engage point was around 3/4 the way up and now it is a little closer to the top. I can loosen the nut but then the 1.0mm gap will be lost.

Do I possibly have to play with the other side of the clutch cable at the pedal?

Thanks again for the replies.

[mpetry]

I don't think changing the cable setup at the pedal / clevis will affect the engagement point.

Here's what I would do: Make sure you have the 1 mm gap at the clutch lever. Confirm that it's 1mm.

Then if you adjusted the nuts on the tube and the engagement got "worse" (less to your liking) go the other way! As you adjust the nuts toward the end of the tube, you are increasing the tension on the cable. So you want to go the other way, decreasing the tension, to get the release point where you want it.

There's a concept of "dead pedal", that is, the clutch pedal should not feel much resistance in the first inch as it takes up tension, then you push in against the the spring, and I know it's correctly adjusted when the resistance is reduced at the bottom of the clutch stroke, as the spring is over center.

Make sense ? It's hard to describe how it feels when it's exactly right but the key is you want about an inch of "dead pedal". If you don't have that then the cable is under tension and the clutch is not fully engaged, which is not a good thing.

[euro911sc]

You can adjust the screw at the arm to control the 1.0 mm gap after you adjust the cable.

also you can adjust the clutch stop on the pedal board to change the depth the pedal goes.

-Michael

[RWebb]

one addition - if you are having a lot of trouble, then it may be time to rebuild the pedal cluster...

[trojwl]

The nylon bushings are shot and cluster shaft is twisting in mounting bracket.
Hence the cable does not displace enough length to operate clutch properly.

I had same problem on my 82 SC. Takes only a few hours to rebuild cluster (more if you clean and paint parts before reassembly as I did). Replace clutch cable while you're at it. And remember to mount return spring in cluster before reinstallation.

Recheck adjustments on tranny housing.

You will definitely be glad you did this.