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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
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Cannot remove front T-bar end cap
I know this has been covered over and over again but I am stuck. I am simply trying to evaluate what I have on my 83 SC. I have the wheels up, the t-bar adjusting bolt out and despite PB blaster, hammer and screwdrivers cannot budge the end cap. I went around to the front, removed the end piece and the seal covering access to the t-bar already has a small hole drilled in it making me think someone has already been in there before. But I don't get how to remove that seal (Wayne says to use a punch?) so I can get to the front of the t-bar and pound on it. I even put a jack under the a-arm as suggested to take some pressure off things. I am sure the t-bar is rusted to the end cap but I am making no progress.
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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This info is from a technical article.
Pry off rear endcap with large screwdriver. Probably does nothing for you but I don't have hands on experience with this yet. Pelican Technical Article: 911 Torsion Bar Replacement |
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Less brakes, more gas!
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Careful prying with things as the AL is cast so it breaks easily where the slot is for the adjustment screw. Have you tried hammering it on to the t-bar? That might break up the rust. Last thing is HEAT. After that you may want to take the whole susp. out and see if you can get better leverage. Last resort I guess is to cut the hell out of it...
-Michael
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![]() ![]() '82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah '13 Cayenne GTS |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: lexington, kentucky
Posts: 537
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Torsion bar
I just went thru a similar process and it is far easier to just remove the A arm.
If the torsion bar does not just wiggle out then it is probably really rusted in The end cap on the front can be removed by hitting it on the circumference and then it will rotate on it's axis or just drill a hole in it and pull with needle nose pliers or curved hemostat. |
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Less brakes, more gas!
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Yes and no... Lets hope that the ball joint comes out of the strut easily. At least you can use a pickle fork on those, 'cept you usually kill the ball joint boot and then you have to get new ball joints... which means you have to remove the old ones that were torqued to 250Nm and sat on the car for 30 years in an unprotected area... BTDT and its a biotch!
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![]() ![]() '82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah '13 Cayenne GTS |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Mine rust welded on over the years and being in harsh salty enviroment with PO.
Not for the faint of heart: I had to sledge hammer the poop out of it, sat on the curb, held in one hand, prayed then sprayed lube, then hammering in an even circular pattern. Keeping an eye on the surface of the ride height adjustment point. After an hour it finally broke loose. I swear people thought I was a crazyman, just like a hammering fool. The outside of the cap was severely dimpled but after a thorough cleaning and some grease it fit on my new T bars with no issues. Again, only if you are desperate and retarded like me :-o
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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knock the torsion bar forward to pop it out.
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Less brakes, more gas!
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I don't think he is talking about the front cap, but the rear cap with the adjustment screw in it. Unless I read it totally wrong.
-Michael
__________________
![]() ![]() '82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah '13 Cayenne GTS |
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Registered
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Front TB removal.........
Quote:
deeking, If the front torsion bar/s are not stuck at the front end, the TB with the cap should be able to slide out!!!!! Your problem is not only the stuck adjusting cap but the torsion bar it self. You need to push the TB out from the front with the stuck cap. You could either use brute force (BFH) or use a gear puller to push the TB out. Keep us posted. Tony |
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