G50 Trans mount stud help and notes

[steely]

Two of the (4) transmission studs came out when I was removing the mount to replace the G50 mount bushings. Studs are in great shape and were dry.

Can anyone tell me if I should just loctite them back in, and if they get torqued or not? The mounting nut torque is 18 ft-lb, but what torque do you use on the stud, the same or more?

I also noted a slight bummer - the 2 large anodized bottom washers were pretty rusted on the inside (bushing face). (PP here I come).

[bklyn]

Steely I am also having some g50 shifting problems so I re-torgued the studs to 18 and also checked the rubber mounts. The rubber looks good but I dont think you can just replace the rubber bushings, let me know if you can.

[steely]

The mounts can be replaced - they are 2-part poly graphite - part no is PEL-RSRMTM.
Link with pic:
Mounts

Looking things over it seems there are 2 washers missing too - egads - $13 ea.

Anybody on the stud torque question?

[steely]

This is the inside face of the large lower (seat) washer. Both are like this.

[bklyn]

Steely thanks for the part number, I am guessing the old need to be pressed out and the new pressed in?

[steely]

Yeah Len, but I just cut mine out (no press). I cut the lip of one side and then pried it out with a BF screwdriver.

Not sure if you saw it, but I threw a link up there to another Pelicans thread that has pics and info.

[bklyn]

Thanks Dan, sorry I could not answer your orig. question but you did help me.

[steely]

Lenny - No problem sir - that is what it's all about!
Look into the thread I have up there - Wevo was doing a G50 bushing too that you might consider, but I they or another company may require you to send the crossmember to them for the install. And good luck with the shifting issue.

There's an answer out there for me :-)

[steely]

Warren to the rescue...

Originally Posted by Early_S_Man

Jim,

Well, the factory spec book and service manuals are a little 'sparse' when it comes to replacement stud torque values, so I will tell you what I do ... using clean, dry stud into aluminum threaded hole that has had a tap run into the hole to 'clean up' the threads ... I use the 'double-nut' technique on the stud, that is, two clean, new, dry nuts that are tightened together with two box-end wrenches until 'snug' ... then, the outer nut is used to drive the stud into the head until the nuts start to slip on the stud. I leave a box end wrench 'dangling' inside the inner nut while the stud is being installed, preferring not to be forced to use an open-end wrench for removing the nuts after the stud is installed!

------------------
Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[KTL]

Don't worry too much about the torque for the studs. Snug them in there and some red Loctite is fine to keep them in place.

Nothing strikes me as odd about those washers rusting inside. They sit with the cup facing inward, so they are ripe to catch water. Actually they're not anodized. Steel isn't commonly anodized- usually aluminum alloys (like the Fuchs wheels and black window trim). The original fastener plating material on fasteners from Porsche was cadmium. Cadmium isn't that common anymore since it's not all that environmentally friendly. More common today is zinc.

[steely]

Thanks Kevin - my bad on the anodize, is the finish alodine - just curious. Am somewhat familiar with cad plated cable connectors - superior quality but bad in the respect you mention - had no idea Porsche used it.

Really appreciate the stud info. Now I just wait for the mail man.

[KTL]

The mail man........... Great to find what he leaves on the doorstep and hate to see how he supports the credit card debt! Trying to get the racecar sorted out for the coming season and it seems the orders are going out fast and furious!

[Joe Bob]

Studs don't have a torque value. Just make sure they don't go in too deep. You need enough for the proper amount of turns for the nut.

The suggestions above are right on, clean, chase, red loctite, double nut.....