Not to open a can of worms, but...

[Swoboda]

Why do some suggest Brad Penn 20-50 partially synthetic "if no leaks" and Valvoline VR-1 (racing) "if there are oil leaks"?

Is the Brad Penn so much "thinner" to increase leaking?

Just curious.

Thanks.

[Eagledriver]

synthetic oils have a reputation for leaking more than conventional oil. That's all.

-Andy

[Traveller]

Originally Posted by Eagledriver

synthetic oils have a reputation for leaking more than conventional oil. That's all.

-Andy

Perhaps in older models with seals of a different material.

None of my cars running on Mobil 1 leak oil.

[michael lang]

I've not heard that saying but I do know first hand when I switched to Brad Penn a few years ago the small drip that my car's engine had stopped and has not returned. Now I know that cars do not fix themselves but there hasn't been a drop of oil on my garage floor in just over three years.

[tonythetarga]

Originally Posted by Swoboda

Why do some suggest Brad Penn 20-50 partially synthetic "if no leaks" and Valvoline VR-1 (racing) "if there are oil leaks"?

Is the Brad Penn so much "thinner" to increase leaking?

Just curious.

Thanks.

I think you have it backwards. If you have any leaks with the thicker 20-50 oils, do not switch to the thinner synthetic oils. Porsche does say that you should use synthetic oil for 84 and newer cars but many of the newer oils do not have the protection (zddp) for the flat tappets, hence the rx to use Brad Penn for the air (oil) cooled cars. Brad Penn is thick at 20-50 and the synthetic oils of 0-40 or 5-40 are less viscous, but relatively consistent, whether cold or hot.

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by michael lang

I've not heard that saying but I do know first hand when I switched to Brad Penn a few years ago the small drip that my car's engine had stopped and has not returned. Now I know that cars do not fix themselves but there hasn't been a drop of oil on my garage floor in just over three years.

some of the high mileage oils have additives that can make the seals swell to help stop/prevent oil leaks.

racing oil- i would not use any kind of racing oil in a DD. those oils are designed for engines that, in a sense, are not intended for high miles. IE, they are rebuilt more often and the oil is changed more often.

[michael lang]

Agreed T77911S, my car is mostly driven on the track. The only street miles it gets is to & from the track, to tech inspection and occasionally I need something done that I can't do myself. Other than that, it's a 62K mile garage queen. I think the saying is backwards, the synthetic is slipperier (if that's a word) than the Brad Penn which is a synthetic blend. I believe the zinc additives to help with engine longevity are what slows down the oil leaking to a lesser degree.

[5:04]

Just switched from VR-1 to BP and the first thing I noticed is that I have more leaks. My car used to leak little, but now I have a couple of tiny puddles after I park it.

[teenerted1]

now you did it
Can-O-Worms Worm Composter - On BACKORDER until mid-April

[laughac]

Originally Posted by Swoboda

Why do some suggest Brad Penn 20-50 partially synthetic "if no leaks" and Valvoline VR-1 (racing) "if there are oil leaks"?

Is the Brad Penn so much "thinner" to increase leaking?

Just curious.

Thanks.

Because Brad Penn got Jennifer Attiston...

[kidrock]

Because I like Brad Penn better than Tom Cruise.

[Green 912]

d00d, those guys are fags!

[DRACO A5OG]

I loved the Brad Penn (80% Dino 20% Synth) 20W50, runs cooler but I hate the leaks, so did my neighbors.

I switched to Valvoline VR1 (100% Dino) 20W50 6 months ago, 3 oil changes later, Leaks have stopped and both oils have not shown any metal shavings.

By observation, BP appears to be thicker but the 20% Synth just seem to find those leaks. Just my experience.