I'm closely following this thread since I'm considering installing an SW chip soon.

Good luck!

Likely your prior attempts misaligned one or more of the the power pins or ground. Pull the connector and look to see if anything is obvious. Do you hear the DME relay clicking when you cycle the ignition? Dicking around with the box and such can also send the DME relay to an early grave. If it isn't clicking swap in another. If that isn't either.....you have a power in issue. Either 12v constant or 12v switched.

If you don't have a spare....get one, cheap part and cheap insurance. I did...wasn't the problem but now I have a spare so when it does go.....I have one. If it's one the Hungarian made ones, they are less hardy than the others.

A test lamp or meter will tell you if you are getting power. There are a few threads on the subject and Ingo is a valuable resource.

If you are getting requisite power to the loom, then you can test downstream to determine if the box is getting power and sending it down at the other end.

The DME relay (looks kinda like a printer toner) was replaced about 3 months ago, so it shouldn't be the problem. I hope the white connector wasn't damaged in one of my previous attempts to hook it up to DME

It still needs to get power. Turn the key and listen or feel for the click.

The saga ends - engine starts now!

SW chip was installed the wrong way, so i had to take everything back apart and flip the chip around. Three remaining questions:

1) The engine now idles at 1100 rpms with the SW chip - is that normal?
2) Should I leave the white Pin 10 wires connected or disconnect them?
3) Was there significant damage done to the control unit when I tried starting the engine with the SW chip installed backwards?

Probably no damage. As to adjusting the idle, that question should be directed to SW. He does so much custom mapping that any speculation w/o specs would be stoopid. If it was an off the shelf chip....yeah the collective may have an opinion.

There IS an adjustment at the throttle body. Since it's mechanical it can always changed back....

If you look on Steve's site you'll see that high idle after install is not uncommon. He tells you how to adjust here:

911Chips.com - Motronic DME Update

s-e-a-r-c-h

Dont use the pictures/wording on the chip. sticker orientation can be misinterpreted. There is an indentation on one end of both the stock and SW chip, in the middle of the short side of the chip. If memory serves me well it should point AWAY from the Circuit board. Check.

EDIT - look on the 911chips website to see orientation. Don't trust me. hehehe

For future reference: Chips have a notch cut in one end. That is the directional key.

It is possible to damage the DME by reversing the chip but you would know it by now because it wouldn't start. You are good to go.

Thanks for all the help guys. Follow-up thread - with instructional pics - is posted.

Bullet

Get in the habit to copy the "following post link" into your posting so if this post end up in someone search, he will have access to it right away.

So here it is; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/600518-all-prospective-steve-wong-chip-buyers.html

Have fun

JJ

Not cool putting it in backwards...I wonder which pins erroneously rx' power? Always go by the notch..pin #1 to the left of the notch while viewing notch at 12 o-clock position (I would imagine)..

OUCH....


Doyle

What do you mean rx' power

Porsche 911,

This thread is a huge help to anyone like me who's considering doing this.

Thanks for taking the time to shoot the pics and post!

Have fun!

really happy with my SW chip. on my second now due to putting SSI's on my 3.2
if you're not in cali and you don't need to pass emissions unplugging the brown wire helps the engine as well. it is easy to find right near the main cable for the DME

I had trouble finding my brown wire, due to the PO taping them to the harness with black electrical tape....just a heads-up.

To be clear, in order to adjust the 1200 idling rpm down to 800-880, I need to just adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body by one to three turns clockwise. I do NOT need to convert the 2K DME to the later 4K chip, correct?

The instructions refer to the '84-'86 3.2s a lot, and mention the '87 for idling speed adjustment, but do not say anything about the 1989, even though I'm showing a 1200 idling rpm post-install.

The chip doesn't get damaged when it is installed backwards. So don't worry. The idle speed is adjusted at the throttle body and the mixture is adjusted at the AFM bypass screw.

Also make sure the idle microswitch engages when you let off the throttle. If not idle won't be stable.

Ingo

I've tightened the idle adjustment screw behind the yellow cap clockwise until it can't be tightened anymore.. now i'm trying to bridge B and C in the rubber test socket. How does the throttle body come into play here (not in the instructions)?

the screw on the AFM is for the idle mixture. If you tighten the screw you won't allow air to bypass the flapper and as a result all air needs to pass through the flapper. This will make the idle mixture very rich. The basic setting is to have it three to four turn loosened.

The throttle body has the stop adjustment that sets the opening of the throttle plate at idle. That in combination with the ICV decides how much air is introduced into the engine and this defines the idle speed.

ingo