Steve Wong chip install question
 

I'm trying to disconnect the wiring plug, but it's stuck in there pretty good and i don't want to force anything and possibly break something. When they say disconnect the box from wiring plug by rotating the box out so that it pivots away from the retaining tab, what part of the picture do i need to pull on to disconnect?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301610471.jpg

TIA

I got mine out but do not remember how exactly.

Bump

There is a metal spring tab hidden behind the black rubber gromet where the thick wire loom goes into the white connector. It is secured by the two little Phillips screws visible in your image to the black connector housing of the DME.

You need to pull that metal tab away in the direction of the thick wire while gently pulling the white connector at that side away from the DME. In your picture you pull on that metal tab towards the 5 o'clock direction. The color of the metal spring tab is sort of golden.

When the connector comes loose it rotates away from the DME box. The other side of the connector has a nose that holds it into place. Don't force it. Once you pull on the tab it becomes real easy.

Ingo

Same here - I remember finding it easier to unbolt the box from the floor as you have done - in order to get some wiggle room, but I don't recall which way.

That said, I do think that looking at the right side in the pic, you may see a small metal bracket with 2 screws acting as a keeper for the plastic connector edge. If this is the case, that is the pivot point, and the other side (left in the pic) has to swing away first. But I could be wrong.

BTW, I hate rotating edge card connectors in general, I just don't think it's good for the pins.

on edit - posted almost same time as Ingo

There is a metal retainer on the right side of the head in the picture. Release the retainer and move the box counter clock wise about 60 degrees and this will release all the pins. There is a key that the head fits into is a locator which becomes the pivot point.
Bruce

Bullet

You are almost there... Soon you'll experience the SW fine tuning.

Once you got it "pivoting" out of the connector, take pictures of it from the same position of your pics in post 1, and post them.

Why you may ask... Well in a few weeks/months/years someone else will be in the same situation and may do a search and your thread with a documented answer will help some other Pelican down the road.

Cheers

JJ

Steely

If ou are like me, 2 fingers typing... Yeah, your lookalike posting was probably started 5 minutes before the other guy 1 minute answer :D:):D

JJ

You read me like a book!!
2 fingers and it ain't getting better either. :D

do they make these chips for 83 models?

Nope....wrong system. An 83 was CIS, K Jetronic.

84 and up were Motronic and had DME controllers.

I have an 83....but a 91 motor....:D

One was mechanical injection....the other is electronic.

cool. I just had fuel injection control relay replaced in mine -it was all corroded. Car had been running in "limp home mode"? ever since I bought it! I kept thinking -man I thought 911's were supposed to be fast. LOL Wow -now it really moves like Jack the Bear

Almost done with everything.. issue now is i can't get the dang DME to fully snap back into place with the white connector! The "pivot point" is snapped back into place, but the far end won't fit back in. Might need to just squeeze harder.

If you really have the hook on then press a little bit harder........

+1, It probably never been opened so it just needs a bit more pressure SmileWavy

Enjoy your HP

Ahhh.. so close but it won't snap in! just almost had like 2 aneurisms trying. About to throw in the towel for tonight. Any more tips on getting the DME back in..

Maybe post a video out what you are trying to do?

Remove and attempt install... just an idea.

I would do that but I really hate those 10MM nuts.

Don't have a pic right now but the white "retaining tab" snaps in and out pretty easily (to the right on the orginal pic), but the rest of the white wiring plug won't plug in. I'm pretty sure the retaining tab side is supposed to snap in first before the rest of the plug follows, but it's just not going in.

You put the far end with the key (or nose) in first and then rotate the connector towards the housing. Make sure the nose is really all the way in its position then the DME connector rotates onto the DME housing fine. If you are one pin over because you didn't get the nose all the way into its slot it won't work. Hold the connector and the plug at about a 45 degree angle and then try it.

In your picture it is the LEFT side of the connector that gets introduced to the housing first.

Ingo

As a general tip: Put your location into your profile. If there is a pelican close by they can tell. (We all work for beer.)
Go to User CP up on the left side of the menu bar; Under Your profile click on Edit Your Details and look towards the bottom.

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The DME connector should only require a firm continuous force to snap it in. I would carefully inspect the pins on the DME to make sure they are all straight. Also look to see if any junk has gotten into the socket.

When inserting the plug there is kind of a hook at the end of the plug that catches on the black plastic of the socket on the DME. It acts as a hinge to close it. You can try pressing it a little farther (or less farther) into that hinge point to see if that helps. If you are getting it almost closed that means that the pins are lining up so I would look at the metal release catch and see if it needs to be pressed to the release position to get it seated.

If I read that right you are trying to put the right side in first (your pic). This is wrong.

You hook the hooked end in (LHS) FIRST, just the end, then pivot the DME around that point, to marry the DME to the connector, all the time moving the RH side of the connector to the metal retaining clip. It should just go straight in.

Good luck.

EDIT: Didn't see above from Quicksilver - same same :-)

Bingo!


Now the DME is fully snapped in the white connector. I held off on bolting the DME back on deck beneath the driver's set, and tried starting the engine - it won't start!

I tried disconnecting the Pin 10 wires on the wiring harness to the DME unit, but no luck.. I'm pretty sure I installed the SW chip in the same direction as the stock chip (with the letters/numbers reading the same direction as stock did). Can't think of why else it's not starting..

I'm closely following this thread since I'm considering installing an SW chip soon.

Good luck!

Likely your prior attempts misaligned one or more of the the power pins or ground. Pull the connector and look to see if anything is obvious. Do you hear the DME relay clicking when you cycle the ignition? Dicking around with the box and such can also send the DME relay to an early grave. If it isn't clicking swap in another. If that isn't either.....you have a power in issue. Either 12v constant or 12v switched.

If you don't have a spare....get one, cheap part and cheap insurance. I did...wasn't the problem but now I have a spare so when it does go.....I have one. If it's one the Hungarian made ones, they are less hardy than the others.

A test lamp or meter will tell you if you are getting power. There are a few threads on the subject and Ingo is a valuable resource.

If you are getting requisite power to the loom, then you can test downstream to determine if the box is getting power and sending it down at the other end.

The DME relay (looks kinda like a printer toner) was replaced about 3 months ago, so it shouldn't be the problem. I hope the white connector wasn't damaged in one of my previous attempts to hook it up to DME

It still needs to get power. Turn the key and listen or feel for the click.

The saga ends - engine starts now!

SW chip was installed the wrong way, so i had to take everything back apart and flip the chip around. Three remaining questions:

1) The engine now idles at 1100 rpms with the SW chip - is that normal?
2) Should I leave the white Pin 10 wires connected or disconnect them?
3) Was there significant damage done to the control unit when I tried starting the engine with the SW chip installed backwards?

Probably no damage. As to adjusting the idle, that question should be directed to SW. He does so much custom mapping that any speculation w/o specs would be stoopid. If it was an off the shelf chip....yeah the collective may have an opinion.

There IS an adjustment at the throttle body. Since it's mechanical it can always changed back....

If you look on Steve's site you'll see that high idle after install is not uncommon. He tells you how to adjust here:

911Chips.com - Motronic DME Update

s-e-a-r-c-h

Dont use the pictures/wording on the chip. sticker orientation can be misinterpreted. There is an indentation on one end of both the stock and SW chip, in the middle of the short side of the chip. If memory serves me well it should point AWAY from the Circuit board. Check.

EDIT - look on the 911chips website to see orientation. Don't trust me. hehehe

For future reference: Chips have a notch cut in one end. That is the directional key.

It is possible to damage the DME by reversing the chip but you would know it by now because it wouldn't start. You are good to go.

Thanks for all the help guys. Follow-up thread - with instructional pics - is posted.

Bullet

Get in the habit to copy the "following post link" into your posting so if this post end up in someone search, he will have access to it right away.

So here it is; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/600518-all-prospective-steve-wong-chip-buyers.html

Have fun

JJ

Not cool putting it in backwards...I wonder which pins erroneously rx' power? Always go by the notch..pin #1 to the left of the notch while viewing notch at 12 o-clock position (I would imagine)..

OUCH....


Doyle

What do you mean rx' power

Porsche 911,

This thread is a huge help to anyone like me who's considering doing this.

Thanks for taking the time to shoot the pics and post!

Have fun!

really happy with my SW chip. on my second now due to putting SSI's on my 3.2
if you're not in cali and you don't need to pass emissions unplugging the brown wire helps the engine as well. it is easy to find right near the main cable for the DME

I had trouble finding my brown wire, due to the PO taping them to the harness with black electrical tape....just a heads-up.

To be clear, in order to adjust the 1200 idling rpm down to 800-880, I need to just adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body by one to three turns clockwise. I do NOT need to convert the 2K DME to the later 4K chip, correct?

The instructions refer to the '84-'86 3.2s a lot, and mention the '87 for idling speed adjustment, but do not say anything about the 1989, even though I'm showing a 1200 idling rpm post-install.

The chip doesn't get damaged when it is installed backwards. So don't worry. The idle speed is adjusted at the throttle body and the mixture is adjusted at the AFM bypass screw.

Also make sure the idle microswitch engages when you let off the throttle. If not idle won't be stable.

Ingo

I've tightened the idle adjustment screw behind the yellow cap clockwise until it can't be tightened anymore.. now i'm trying to bridge B and C in the rubber test socket. How does the throttle body come into play here (not in the instructions)?

the screw on the AFM is for the idle mixture. If you tighten the screw you won't allow air to bypass the flapper and as a result all air needs to pass through the flapper. This will make the idle mixture very rich. The basic setting is to have it three to four turn loosened.

The throttle body has the stop adjustment that sets the opening of the throttle plate at idle. That in combination with the ICV decides how much air is introduced into the engine and this defines the idle speed.

ingo