First Engine Drop on my 911

lucasdw63 · 04-01-2011, 03:13 PM

Guys I am diving into my first engine drop and everything is going along rather smoothly except for two issue:

Try as i may, I can not break the nut on the oil hard line. Does anyone have any tricks to get thew nut to break?

Similarly, the 10mm hex bolt that connects the starter to the transmission and engine does not want to cooperate. I tried both a 10mm socket and wrench but neither seems to go in deep enough into the hex bolt to apply enough torque to remove. Anyone ever encounter this?

thanks

Flat6pac · 04-01-2011, 03:48 PM

You need 2 larger breaker bars to work with the wrenches. Use antiseize when reinstalling.
It will come loose.
The cap nut, I use channel locks that exert more pressure because of a slight angle on the head and they are available from channellock or sears but theyre all the same stuff.
Bruce

88911coupe · 04-01-2011, 04:45 PM

Flatpac's right about two breaker bars...that connection gets "frozen" over years, had same problem but needed more leverage! Good luck

pete3799 · pete3799's Garage

I would highly recommend dropping the motor and trans. as one unit. Deal with the starter when everything is on the ground.

dtxscott · 04-01-2011, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete3799

I would highly recommend dropping the motor and trans. as one unit. Deal with the starter when everything is on the ground.

+1 It is not much more work to drop the trans with it.

Also, use penetrant oil on the oil lines. You can also use heat but be careful to only heat the metal line that goes to the engine... And not too hot!

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Lucas,

If you are planning to remove your exhaust system and like to prevent breaking the exhaust studs during removal, try to use an impact wrench (modulated). I just did one this morning with a motor that has rusted HE and bolts totally corroded. Engine has 144K miles on it. See pictures below.

Took me a good 2 hours to grind and cut the bolts for pre-muffler and HE. But the 6 heat exchanger nuts took less than 10 mins. by using an impact wrench (low to medium setting). Just a few drops of penetrating oil before removal and did not even use any heat at all. The nuts were so corroded that 3 studs came loose during removal. Zero breakage this time!!!!! BTW, this engine belongs to a member from Madison, WI.

When I did my engine a few months ago using the conventional method with penetrating oil and heat, two (2) exhaust studs snapped and broke. Inspite of the care and caution I used, it was not as effective as using an impact wrench. HTH.

Tony

lucasdw63 · 04-02-2011, 10:00 AM

Thanks guys. Got the hardline off with breaker bars. decided to drop the engine and tranny as one unit and am now replacing the oil cooler gasket and seals...

pete3799 · pete3799's Garage

While it's out check the thermostat O-ring, breather cover gasket and pressure switch.

mgatepi · 04-02-2011, 10:55 AM

Sorry to hi-jack a thread...but while we are discussing an engine drop, I have a problem with seperating the tranny from the motor...any tricks to this? I have removed all bolts and can make it wobble and seperate about 1/4 to 1/2 inch....but thats it. It then snaps back!!
What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!!
mg

gregwils · gregwils's Garage

You said "all bolts", assume that means four.

You want to make sure that the transmission and the engine are in alignment prior to removing. You don't want tension on the transmission input shaft, like the trans is "hanging". You should be able to wiggle a little, then slide straight back. Same for installing. They need to be reasonable closely aligned, then slide straight in. There's no secret procedure.

Flat6pac · 04-02-2011, 11:52 AM

You need to release the throwout bearing from the clutch by removing the clutch arm, on an /sc its the smalll arm with circlip under the bell housing. The large spring arm is an idle arm and just floats, doesnt always come off. On a pre 77 you need to drop the clutch arm completely.
Bruce

lucasdw63 · 04-03-2011, 05:15 AM

I located the oil leak, the O ring on the oil pressure mount was disintegrated. I now want to check the seals on the oil cooler but can,t find the mounting bolts. Any ideas?

mgatepi, no worry on you hijacking my thread hopefully you can get an answer?

lucasdw63 · 04-03-2011, 05:18 AM

Good call to drop the trans with the engine, i just have to figure out how to get to the oil cooler seals to replace them- any thoughts?

tobluforu · tobluforu's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete3799

While it's out check the thermostat O-ring, breather cover gasket and pressure switch.

I have the motor out of my 72 and I can't for the life of me remove the thermostat, is there some trick that i'm missing? I'm afraid that if I pry any harder i'm going to break it.
Thanks

dtxscott · 04-03-2011, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucasdw63

Good call to drop the trans with the engine, i just have to figure out how to get to the oil cooler seals to replace them- any thoughts?

The oil cooler has four nuts on it... Two on top and two on bottom.

You can get to the bottom two very easily with an extension and 13mm socket.

The top two are accessed by removing the air shroud that sits on top of it. I think there are five 10mm bolts.... Two on the back, one one the side and two on top.

Then you can see the top two cooler nuts.

pete3799 · pete3799's Garage

4 bolts hold the oil cooler on (2 top-2 bottom) remove them. the seals are between the cooler and engine block. The top 2 bolts are under the plastic shroud.

MH911 · MH911's Garage

Lucas. I replaced my oil cooler seals over the course of this past week. You have it easy with the engine out of the car. There are four bolts. The two on the bottom are easy to get to. For the two top ones, you will need to remove the shroud that sits over the top of the oil cooler. If your unable to remove it, you will need a long socket extension with a 13mm socket. Use tape to keep your socket and extension attached to each other. Also, when your putting it back together, use a little tape in the socket to keep that nut in place. You don't want it dropping into the cavity at the top of the oil cooler. You will need to snake it in between the oil cooler and the shroud. I had to do this step blind. But with the engine out for you, you should be able to peek in there to locate the nuts.

tobluforu. This was another O-Ring I just replaced this past week. You should be able to use a small flat head screwdriver to pry the oil thermostat up and out. Pry a little on one side and then pry on the other side. It needs to come strait out.

Read about my adventures here: Playing Oil Leak Detective

MH911 · MH911's Garage

HA. What Scott and Pete just said.

lucasdw63 · 04-03-2011, 06:42 AM

Sounds good.. i am going back in!

Chris Morse · Chris Morse's Garage

I think i read in one of the Pelican books that it is not a good idea to remove the exhaust while the engine is upside down because it is possible to dump carbon chunks and scale fromthe exhaust system down into the engine, especially when using an impact. For sure a couple of valves will be partially open and that crud could end up scoring a cylinder.

Be very carefull of the thermostat bolts. Those skinny 6 mm bolts can strip the threads in the mag case if someone previously has tightened them just a bit too much.

It takes less than 2 seconds to dump 12 quarts of oil @ 6000rpm and it is a cast iron B*#ch to clean up. My engine and trans go back in this week. Check the photo and you will see one of the little guys on top of the elevated thermostat. The other stud had the nut run down about 1/2 inch on thethreads!!!

In fact, I would suggest that you Helicoil those two studs just for luck.

The "as long as" list is almost endless, while the engine and trans are out. some of my fuel and breather hoses were getting crispy brittle/funky. front & rear seals, all of the hoses and stuff on the backside of the engine.

hth,
chris