Switching from synthetic back to regual dino oil

Ramathorn · 04-09-2011, 02:13 PM

The previous owner of my car ran amsoil synthetic 20w50 for an unknown amount of time and Ive never really like synthetic for various reasons and want to switch my my normal rotella15w40. Can anyone give me some advice or point me in the right directions of how to switching properly?

Oh Haha · 04-09-2011, 02:16 PM

Drive the car to warm up the engine to normal temps, drain the old oil, replace the oil filter with a new one of your choice, pour the new oil in, check level, adjust as necessary, and enjoy.

Ramathorn · 04-09-2011, 02:32 PM

I understand the oil change process but, curious if there is any ill effects of the two different types of oils mixing. The last thing i want is crazy foaming oil.

Wil Ferch · 06:17 AM

You are making a lot assumptions that may never happen. Foaming?....why?....what "spec" or level of incompatibility makes you think that will happen?

Here's something to chew on--> ONLY in the USA....a manufacturer can use a non-synthetic oil base-stock, and if it is a highly refined Group III hydro-cracked oil....it can be marketed as "100 % Synthetic". Did you know that? Won't fly in other countries. The performance of high-quality base-stock/hydrocraked oils comes "so-close" to synthetic ( Group IV)....that the US gov't allows marketing claims such as these. So it doesn't have to be a PAO or "Truly" synthetic oil to be labelled synthetic.

Then there is this---> what about the oil companies themselves that offer "syn-blend"....a certain % synthetic and and a certain % mineral oil ( and no....it doesn't mean 50/50. For all we know, it can be a 98% mineral oil with 2% synthetic...to be called "syn-blend"......). No foaming here either.

Oils are a goofy subject....just change out and don't worry. At least not on this topic. Now, "anti-wear additives"..... now you can get into a nice dialogue.

Oh Haha · 04-09-2011, 05:06 PM

I see.

Don't worry about it. Change it out and be done with it.

nesslar · 05:14 PM

Yep. Dino and friends croaked for a reason, and for a good cause; good stuff left for us.

...I never get/got ANY foaming, ever, and I switched away from M1, then to Brad Penn, then on to good dino with proper "additives". $.02+

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

You will have some synth in the system, due to the front cooler, assuming you have a front cooler. Just change it again for extra measure after 1000 miles. After the 3rd-4th change it should 99.9% flushed.

Enjoy and don't worry about

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Fluid freak!

Tom F2 · 04-10-2011, 04:29 AM

I suggest some more research, before switching. The Amsoil is pretty good stuff.

brads911sc · brads911sc's Garage

Run what you like. no need to flush.

WIL84911 · WIL84911's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom F2

I suggest some more research, before switching. The Amsoil is pretty good stuff.

And I think the current Rotella T's are no longer the same recommended versions.

ratpiper71T · 04-10-2011, 08:37 AM

There are a lot of rumors out there among less-knowledgable car folk that suggest changing back to Dino from synthetic will 'cause a bunch of problems' or 'really mess up your engine'---I've never seen anything to indicate that this has any truth to it. Nor have I heard any experienced car guys or mechanics state the same. I don't know where these rumors come from.. I can tell you as long as using a good quality oil with the correct ingredients for your particular car, it can run even better.. Done it many times.

Noah930 · Noah930's Garage

The only problem I've ever even anecdotally heard of from switching oils occurs when doing the reverse of what the OP plans--when people go from dino to synthetic. Some people complain that there is some increased dripping/leaking from their motors. But it seems to be a big YMMV type experience.