Yet another fuel line/partial drop question

[tshort]

I've read a bunch of posts about doing a partial engine drop (including the blog post on it); and I've read a number of posts about replacing the fuel lines, all of which seem relevant to the situation I am faced with on my 88 Carrera. The question I am still trying to get a complete answer to is: how much of a partial engine drop should one do in order to replace the rotten fuel lines? No, I don't want to drain my oil - I am doing this in my garage, I don't usually do my own oil changes, I don't have a 12 QT catch pan, and I would prefer not to mess with that. I do like wrenching, I do have good tools, and I am willing to give the partial drop a shot. I'm looking for someone to tell me the following:

1. Is replacing the fuel lines made *much* easier by doing a partial engine drop? (it appears some have managed it without doing that, or removing the various shrouds and top of the motor stuff).

2. If yes, how much drop is needed to make it much easier? 6"? 3"? or?

3. Given both of the above, is the procedure provided in the Tech Blog the best one to follow? Or is there a modified version of it that would work?

I am exploring options for getting a new set of lines made up, or rebuilding the stock ones. I'd really like to give this a shot - not only would it save me several hundred bucks (my local mechanic tells me it's about $1100 job, including parts); but it would also give me a chance to get to know my 911 better - which I would enjoy.

Thanks for any info.

[djdsc]

I just replaced the 3 fuel lines on an '89 3.2 conversion in a '74 with a partial drop. Simply disconnecting the shifter coupling and rear motor mounts and lowering on an jack. Given that all the injection and intake needs to be removed and you are still working blind on the forward little "L" line, I would not do it this way again. It was a PITA.

It is way easier to me to remove the motor both in time and sore back. The benefit of removing the motor entirely is all the other 'while you are there' maintenance that you can do as well as the ease of replacing the lines.

I went with lines ordered from our host; why bother with all the trouble of making up lines when this is a once every 20 years project. You won't be doing this again as long as you own the car.

[steely]

I replaced the lines between the injectors and pressure regulator, filter and damper w/o a partial - not bragging, just didn't consider it. I don't know how much it would have helped me, but it didn't seem to be that much of an impediment. I did this for the same reasons you mentioned, safety (fuel) and experience gained (as well as $avings).

I did remove the intake, air box, etc. I did make my own lines using ss braided lines and AN/metric fittings.

The removal wasn't hard, however the line fabrication was, and I would consider djdsc's advice and just buy 'em or have someone make them for you unless you feel like it.

While I was in there, since the intake was out, I hit the "triangle' in the back to clean and replace the oil tstat o-ring, crank case breather gasket, oil temp sensor, some vac lines, throttle springs (one was broken) and intake gaskets/isolators. I also set the idle position for the micro switch. I have an early post of this about 2 years ago with the parts numbers (if you wanted to search).

Good luck and have fun - you shouldn't have any probs.

[steely]

Here's a shot of the room I had w/o a partial as a idea.

[gregwils]

I think the answer may depend on what type of new line you are installing. The problem is the steel tube section of the mail fuel line. The 90 degree bend is almost impossible to fish through with the manifold in place...make that completely impossible. If you are installing braided lines with AN fittings, then you could cut the old fuel line and fish the new one. If you are replacing the rubber on your existing metal tubing and reinstalling, then I would say the manifold would need to come off.

I just did mine Saturday and the motor was out and I installed new rubber lines once I put the steel tube into position. If others say they have done it with the manifold on, more power to them. I think it would be faster and less frustrating to remove the manifold as steely did. I don't even think a partial drop would be much benefit.