a little torsion bar removal advice?

[david c.]

Hi guys,

I've searched the archives, but haven't really found the exact piece of advice I need.

I'm trying to remove the stock torsion bars from the front of my 912E. I removed the underbody panel, the sway bar and both adjuster caps.

But, those suckers are stuck in there pretty well.

I've tried to vise-grip and pull. No luck.

What's the procedure here? I saw a thread by a guy who couldn't seat a new one properly and got it stuck on installation, but since I haven't got that far, I'm worried that I'm somehow pinching the A-arm, causing the bar to bind up (my jack-stands are at the other end of the A arms-near the front)? Or, is it just rust at the other end?

Thanks,

David

[widebody911]

Don't put the jackstand on the a-arm!

If re-situating it doesn't work, there's small metal cap on the front end of the a-arm. Pop that baby off by drilling a small hole in it, then plink the t-bar out by whacking it thru the hole with something.

[david c.]

well, I thought that jackstand placement might be an issue. So, I actually placed my floor jack under it last night to unload the A-arms. Then, I tried to pull the torsion bars out. Still no luck. But, I didn't pull as hard when the car was sitting on the floor jack without wheels on it (for obvious reasons).

[Clark Griswald]

They are not pinched unless the control arm is bent. Probably just a bit rusty in the splines.

If you intend to re-use the bars, you need to be carefull not to damage the splines with vise grips, etc. But they are spring steel so they are tough.

Plenty of was to do this. In order of increasing desperation try the following techniques:

Sometime if you grab them with vise grips and rock them back and forth while pulling, they can work loose.

Another thing to try is to tighten a worm screw hose clamp around the splines tightely. Then use a big screwdriver to pry against the screw mechanism on the clamp. That gives you something to push on.

Try applying some heat to the front of the control arm where the splines grab the tbar with a torch, then repeat the above.

If that doesn't work, on the front of the control arm at the end of the tbar is a round plug. It is press fit into the control arm to cap off the end of the tube. If you pull it out you can drive the tbar out with a drift and hammer.

Trick is getting the plug out, there is nothing to grab. Try tapping on one side to see if you can kick up the other side. Failing that you could drill and tap, then insert a screw to pull on, or use a slide hammer. Failing that, use a dremel tool to cut the plug away, then replace with new.

There, now wasn't that easy.

[Early_S_Man]

Two essential tools: 1. Large Brass drift 2. Heavy Brass/Copper-faced mallet

Hit the front caps at the edge, and drilling usually isn't required.

Liberal amount of penetrating oil squirted on the front splines, allow to sit overnight ... then apply drift to ends of the bars with mallet, squarely, and with plenty of persuasion!!!

[david c.]

Okay guys, I really appreciate all this.

Clark, I actually printed out your t-bar tech article and have it (grease covered) sitting on the floor of my garage. Last night, in the dreary Pittsburgh winter, it was my guide. I thank you for that. The photos were indispensible.

Warren, I'll try the penetrating oil and time approach-I've got loads of free time. The heat idea crossed my mind also. I have no reason to believe the A-arm(s) is/are bent.

Last but not least (remember-I am a law student), what is a "drift" (brass, or otherwise)? I have a ton of tools inherited from my dad and grandfather. But, I've never heard of a "drift" before. Is there another common name for this implement?

Thanks guys, really.

David

[Early_S_Man]

David,

A drift is a large punch with a tapered end, but not a pointed tip ... a large squared-off, sort of cylindrical end to engage whatever you are trying to get loose ...

An alternative would be just a piece of 3/4" diameter brass rod, 8"-10" or so in length.

[Clark Griswald]

Think of it as a blunt chisel or punch. Brass is best because it is soft and won't damage the tbar. Basically it is just a rod that lets you reach in and hammer where you want to.

you could use a large bolt, gripped with vise grips to do the same thing. Provided they are not too tight, no damage will result.

If the control arm was bent, you would see it clearly from the outside.

[Jdub]

David:

The drift is a tapered punch tool: usually four/six/eight-sided (depending on stock it is made from) on the shaft end you hit with the hammer, the other end becoming round and tapering out to a flat round end that you would lay against the end of the torsion bar. You can get them in all sizes, from the little guy that pushes out your brake pad retaining rings to some real whoppers of 18" plus size.

They come in different metals. I think that the one you want here is brass, as per Warren, that is no more than about 8" to 12" in length. They are required items in all toolboxes!

John

PS: What front strut inserts did you finally go with?

[magilla]

Dave,
I beleive a drift is like a larger version of a nail countersink. If you don't have one, a thinner (pencil thickness) rod would work. It will allow you to actually hit the Tbar with the hammer and push it out. The hammer head would be too big, and you would risk smashing surrounding parts.

Good luck!

[david c.]

thanks guys, I'm off to the garage and I believe I'll take a beer in tow.

I'll let you all know what happens.

David

[david c.]

Update.

I got the front torsion bars out. The driver's side came out with some more muscle and penetrating oil (probably nominal effect from the latter). The pass. side required that I drill a hole in the press-fit front cover under the tow hook on the front end of the A-arm. Using my new found "drift" in the toolbox, I pounded it out pretty easily.

Then, of course, upon installation of the new Sway-A-Way 21mm front bars, I cross threaded the cap into which the adjuster nut screws. Oh well, my mechanic tells me that he has an extra set for me in the parts box somewhere. Since I'm in no hurry, this is a generous bonus that requires no expedience.

I also got the new inserts into the strut housings. That was fun also. I managed not to chip or scratch the fender lip thanks to the many warnings on similar threads. Thanks guys! I used three layers of some duct tape around the lip. It worked fine.

Upcoming projects:

1. Now I have to grind off the old mounts for the stock sway bar, and drill new holes for the aftermarket 22mm front bar. I guess there is some work to be done for the "through the body part" as well. Anyone done this themselves?

2. Removing the old tie rods and installing 930 spec tie rods in their place. Any hang ups or conventional wisdom here?

Once I get the front done, I have the same projects for the rear to accomplish. With the additional component of installing new aftermarket adjustable spring plates.

Thanks again guys, hopefully I'll have the car together before the autocross season begins in early April.

David

[marcesq]

Dave:

Congrats on the front end. I just did the rear from t-bar to s-bar, so its fresh on my mind if you need some help.

BTW: Real men don't use aftermarket adjustable spring plates (Just kidding).

[david c.]

Marc,

The adjustable spring plates are the aftermarket variety, not the later style OE ones. And, I guess from your joke, no one with a later 911 with factory adjustable plates is a real man. (kidding)

You might be right, but I'm looking forward to the adjustability. I'll call over a few of you "real men" to lift up the side of my car for ease of access, and then I'll just turn the wrench.

In regard to the rear end suspension conversion, my only real concern is regarding that big ingot installed on the 912E. I doubt it will clear the installation of a sway bar. I guess I'll have to remove it and see what happens.

I don't believe any 911 models have this odd component. I can't remember what the conventional wisdom is on this part, I think it was previously discussed on this BBS. I'll have to do a search.

But, I'll deal with it when the time comes, hopefully next week.

Later,

David