How to Modify Engine Stand Yoke?

[arbita1]

I received this engine yoke yesterday. I need to drill 1/2" holes around the shaft so I can insert the locking pin as I rotate the engine on the stand. I'd also like to drill the 15/16" holes so I can insert the rotating handle as well if possible.

Can someone give me a parts list and procedure for the way to do this?

[arbita1]

I hit Submit too quick. Here's the photo:

[newms]

My suggestion is the return that one and get the adapter from Mainely by Design as seen here on ebay. It uses the yoke that came with your engine stand. I am not affiliated, just a satsified customer.

PORSCHE / VW ENGINE STAND ADAPTER RING | eBay

[83_Silberpfeil]

Can the Mainely adapter be attached to a generic Harbor Freight engine stand?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by newms

My suggestion is the return that one and get the adapter from Mainely by Design as seen here on ebay. It uses the yoke that came with your engine stand. I am not affiliated, just a satsified customer.

PORSCHE / VW ENGINE STAND ADAPTER RING | eBay

[trak ratt]

Originally Posted by arbita1

I received this engine yoke yesterday. I need to drill 1/2" holes around the shaft so I can insert the locking pin as I rotate the engine on the stand. I'd also like to drill the 15/16" holes so I can insert the rotating handle as well if possible.

Can someone give me a parts list and procedure for the way to do this?

Put it in your engine stand, align like you want, drill your hole using the stands hole as a guide. Rotate and repeat as many times as you want. If you don't want to chance misalign on the other side put a bolt in the hole you just drilled to hold it and drill from the other side.

[fred cook]

Why not just drill and tap the stand for a large bolt. Then you could position the engine at any degree of rotation and still lock it in place? This way you only have to drill one hole. Of course, you could still drill two holes in the support bracket shaft to put a handle thru for rotation leverage. Just a thought.

[rpmgroup]

I would use a 1 inch hole saw in the drill press to the larger hole for the rotator bar and drill the small holes with the yoke clamped into the stand.

[classic_cars]

I went to my local auto parts store and purchased a muffler clamp that fits the yoke shaft. This will prevent the yoke from sliding out of the stand. I found the weight of the engine keeps it from rotating when you don't want it to. Rotating is easy. Just take a little weight off the front of the engine and spin it around.

[CabMike]

I used the same yoke that you have but I found that it worked much better using the adapter ring shown in the link above. With the ring it allowed enough clearance to mount the flywheel while on the stand.

I drilled one hole for the engine in the upright position to leave it in when I wasn't working on it. The rest of the time the weight of the engine held it in position as classic_cars said.

[Jesse16]

After having my engine on the stand all winter working on it, it never once wanted to "spin" on its own. I'd suggest not doing anything special to "lock" it in place. There is just too much friction for it to spin, (I didn't grease anything) especially after you take everything off the top. If I'm wrong, you can always drill yoke right through the existing stand hole to secure it. Forget the "handle", you've got plenty of things to grab when you want to spin the engine and its easier anyway to lift the engine a bit so it'll move.

[fanaudical]

That's the same yoke I bought last year. I did drill 4 holes to position the yoke; the main shaft is mild steel and I found it drilled easily on my drill press.

My issue with that yoke is that you can not install it on the oil-cooler side of the case with the oil-cooler in place. I do wish I had spent a little more money and bought either the adapter listed above or the made a "spacer" for that yoke.

[arbita1]

Thanks for the input guys. I guess I won't do anything to it and see how it works. I'm not rebuilding the engine, just cleaning and fixing some oil leaks. So this is not a major issue. In my mind, I was imagining the engine would rotate on its own unless I had a stop pin in the shaft. But I guess not.

Originally Posted by fanaudical

My issue with that yoke is that you can not install it on the oil-cooler side of the case with the oil-cooler in place. I do wish I had spent a little more money and bought either the adapter listed above or the made a "spacer" for that yoke.

Does yours have the flat spot like mine does? I've seen photos of this yoke on a 3.2 engine with the oil cooler installed. The flat area is supposed to clear the oil cooler.

Worst case scenario is if it doesn't I'll mount it to the other side. I won't be rebuilding this engine for a few years anyway (hopefully). I'll just deal with it then. Or just add the adapter to it.

[Biff]

"My suggestion is the return that one and get the adapter from Mainely by Design as seen here on ebay. It uses the yoke that came with your engine stand. I am not affiliated, just a satsified customer."

+1

If you contact Mainely he will include a section of pipe that mates with his spider to replace the Harbor Freight top piece. Just cut off the existing HF piece and weld on the included Mainely adapter. I also widened the HF stand so as not to tip.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Biff

I also widened the HF stand so as not to tip.

How?