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Registered User
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Rookie Spark Plug Question
Been reading a lot on here about simple DIY tasks like oil changes and spark plug replacement.
Decided to take a peak at the engine and plugs. I got out the spark plug tool, pulled off the plug wire and tried to fish the socket onto the plug. I think I got it on the plug correctly. I did not remove the plug......but one question came to mind. Although I am an engineer, my experience with spark plugs is mostly limited to lawn mowers, weed eaters and american autos. Installing new plugs with the valve covers on (using that special flexible Porsche socket) how do you know if you are seating the plug threads properly such that you aren't crossing threads? You can't see a damn thing.......is it all by feel and experience? I have not acquired any books that might have hints or tips. Thanks |
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abit off center
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Pretty much by feel. Should be able to get it started by hand well past the point of cross threading. There is not a lot of room in the head with the factory tool to really get it all screwed up.
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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There are plenty of cool spark plug tools you can buy but I like to use a 3/8s extension in the socket that just sticks above the valve cover when seated on the plug. Then I add a short extension - like 1 1/2 inch to allow the your fingers to get the plug started and to provide clearance for the socket drive.
The nice thing is you are able to slide the socket and single extension in the hole easily with your hand. You will become familiar with the angle at which to put the new plug in to hit the hole. ![]() |
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Registered User
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It's just by feel pretty much. It's pretty easy to tell if you're cross threading.
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1985 Triple Black Cabriolet-ROW**Sold** 2008 Cayman S Guards Red/Black 2007 Audi A4 2.0T Red/Black |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Never, ever, start a plug with a socket driver. I never have to tell if I am cross threading because I can't cross thread with finger strength.
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Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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the plugs go in at an angle forward or to the rear
maybe pull the upper valve cover to help feel your way
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Registered
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Like sex in the dark, all by feel, and use your hand to ease it in.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Registered User
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Thanks for the replys.
It seems like some folks may be removing the valve cover while others are not? Based on my limited experimentation the plugs are well below the cover, I don't see any way to hand start the plugs without a socket (or that fancy German tool) while the cover is on. Am I understanding this correctly? One more related question. Seems like plug wires and distributor cap should be replaced at some point. This car is bone stock and was driven as a daily driver until about 170K. The next 10 years and 10K the car was kept in a heated garage but rarely driven (obviously). I am thinking replacement wires might be an idea? How can I tell? There seems to be many wire options from Pelican. For a bone stock car, daily driver for me, 182K, not a track car, will not be raced...etc. What wires are recommended? Thanks again |
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Registered
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I have the Magnecors if you don't mind red.
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Dave Black 1985 911 Carrera M491 Last edited by djcdmv; 05-20-2011 at 05:22 AM.. |
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Registered
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Quote:
Leave the valve cover alone/on if you just want to access spark plugs. Hint: a clean engine is nicer to work on, plus it keeps sand and dirt from getting inside the open spark plug holes. There are tech articles on cleaning the engine, a good way to get friendly with your new gal.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Hope this did not confuse you. Use the socket and extension to start the plug with your fingers. After you know it is in the threads then connect the socket driver (ratchet).
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fla panhandle / Roaming in my motorhome
Posts: 4,332
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A good sparkplug socket has a rubber washer inside that holds the plug in snuggly, and makes for a positive feel as to where the plug is relative to the threads. the deep bore of the head helps to line up the plug. A good socket and the right extension will make the job more doable for you. 1+ on the clean engine suggestion. Lay some padding over the AC compressor for comfort.
It gets easier with practice. Cheers Richard |
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Registered User
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My factory tool (the external spring type) does have a rubber insert that seems to grab the plug nicely. I figured that snug fit was relied upon to get the plug into place without dropping it into never-never land.
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 102
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I use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert that holds the plug firmly in place with a 3" extension. The larger end of the extension protrudes just enough to grasp it with the thumb and index and it's easy to rotate with your fingers. The plug usually immediately aligns with the hole and there's no way you'll cross thread the plug. After a few turns, add an additional 3"extension and your socket wrench to tighten. You can use the Porsche tool, but it is flexible to the point of some uncertainty.
+1 on never starting a plug in the hole with a socket. good luck, and take your time, Regards, g |
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