Thanks - yes, I am eager to get this motor cleaned up a little - by that I mean all the hoses and miscellaneous emissions garbage I can remove.

Yes. plan on doing a catch can and the cresent shaped hard line. I'm a little intrigued (challenged) on the throttle cable end.

YOu know me - I like figuring things out.

Do the 964 fuel lines go bad like the Carerra Fuel lines? They sure look similar

Have you decided if you're going to run a modified 964 engine crossmember or are you going to delete the 964 harmonic balancer and go with a backdated engine crossmember/console?

While I was gathering conversion parts for my own 964 engine I was discussing this issue with experts around the USA. Basically the answers were split 50/50. Some said go ahead and delete the balancer and some said leave it alone.

I ended up deleting the balancer and going with a Rothsport single pulley setup. This allowed me to backdate the engine crossmember/console/tin and install the engine with no spacers between the crossmember and chassis.

Here's mine in progress. Mods include PMS engine tins and throttle cable, SW chip, 993 HE's, cone filter, and Rothsport single pulley. The low end torque is incredible and the top end is nice too!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306407733.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306408079.jpg

SO the normal crossmember and engine carrier bolt up as long as you have room (with the dual pulley/harmonic balancer changed to a regular one)

Yes pre-3.6 parts bolt up. I suggest using 3.2 parts but any of them will work. The key is a Rothsport or PMS crank pulley. You could even combine the 964 tins with 3.2 tins (cutting and welding) to make a nice set of tins for your '74

do you have to do the cone filter or can you use the stock filter and cut the housing back some?

Another way of saying this is you can take everything off your 2.7 engine and install it on the 3.6 engine! With the Rothsport or PMS crank pulley.

Either works. My engine came with a cone filter so I used that.

Thanks Scott - one less added expense - and I like the stock filter

The stock filter will hang up on the arm for the rear deck lid hinge, at least for the '95 993 engine. I think the layout is extremely similar. You can hack the box lid to make it fit. I chose to run a cone filter. Some have cut and welded the trunklid arm to clear.

Doug

The PMS throttle cable looks really nice, but it is expensive ($289): Patrick Motorsports - PMP 911-964-993TC THROTTLE CABLE CONVERSION KIT PORSCHE 911 930 CHASSIS TO 964 993 3.6L DME MOTRONIC ENGINE CONVERSION

For $50 and a little fabrication you can use the Lokar universal cable setup. I'm sure you saw the pictures I provided in my conversion thread.

This also looks really nice, but again pricey ($248). Patrick Motorsports - PKG OIL BRE SYS-911-914 BREATHER SYSTEM ENGINE OIL TANK OR CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM FOR PORSCHE 911 AND 914 CONVERSIONS

I know you can contact Peterson directly and buy one of their beautiful oil catch cans for about $120. Just fab up the rest. That clamp is about $12 from McMaster.com Peterson Fluid Systems : Oil Tank Accessories - they'll put whatever AN fitting on the can that you want. I think was going to use -12 with an AN conversion to a 5/8 or 3/4 nipple. Currently, I run the factory style breather into the intake.

Doug

Scott,

Is the factory crank bolt and pulley/balancer in need of a special tool to remove? I sort of recall that from one of CBRacer X (Chris') posts one time. The conversion I was involved with was pbs911's '78 SC Targa that was bought to pirate the conversion and put it in a '88 Carrera (einreb) who then sold it to the fella who backdated it with TRE..... can't remember his name. So the project I participated in was a 3.6 already converted by Paul Sopp (pbs911) so we didn't have to diddle with that crank pulley deal or the engine suspension. We just ransacked the Targa of everything we needed and threw it in the '88.

I'll agree 100% the torque increase is VERY apparent. When the car hauler delivered the car to my house, I had no choice but to take it for a ride before putting it in the garage. Oh man did that thing pull so much harder than my '87 3.2. Jeremy's '74 is going to be a whole new animal.

JD,

I'd consider having the fuel lines done by Amazon again. Same deal with rubber hose and crimp collars. The crimps are better but the hose is the same Cohline stuff used on the Carreras. Age will make it start to crack- especially ones with a tight bend like that picture above near the vaccuum diaphragm.

The stock air box is the same deal with your '87- chop the face off the lid and run the open filter element. The stock filter has a lot more surface area than most cone filters

I'm undecided about the engine tins. They're not really necessary from a cooling standpoint. A lot of dedicated race cars run without them. My own car only had the side pieces and it runs plenty cool at 210 max. But the big feature of the tins is keeping the engine bay clean. My engine bay gets really dirty without the front and rear pieces. So I scrounged up a piece of rear fiberglass tin to cut down on the dirt. Felt it was important since I run carbs which hate dirt.

Breather tanks are easy to plumb. Cheap = good enough and even then "cheap" is relative. I used this one

Breather Tank

and got some brass fittings from the hardware store to allow me to clamp a section of 3/4" ID braided cloth hose to it. Joe's also makes a nice "cheap" one

JOES Race Car Dry Sump Breather Tank

Thanks for the responses! I really like the ideas here.

You know me Kevin - especially if I can do it on the cheap...

Do any of you see a disadvantage of combing the metal S pipe that traditionally goes from the on engine oil cooler to the tank and the 964 engine tube that is produced for conversions??

I am thinking with Amazon at my disposal here - I could get a 30mm to -16 adapter - then do a hard line (with a few bendy sections for engine vibrations) that would go from the case all the way back to the tank. One hose - Thoughts?

combine this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130986091.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130989140.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131027529.jpg

????????

I've never really been a big fan of that B&B hard line. Not sure why, because I certainly like the idea of a hard line instead of a rubber line at that location (due to heat). However the metal line seems like it would absorb heat even more, which is not something you want. I think you can get away with using the factory S hose from the old cars and protect it with a fabric heat sleeving.

McMaster-Carr

I used a section of the above stuff on my S-hose to protect it from the nearby OBX header pipe on my 3.2

What kind of connection at the engine are you thinking? The typical one has been a hard pipe welded onto an adapter fitting. That works, but it's kind of sloppy. Rothsport and JB Racing and SmartRacing make some nice adapter tubes.

Welcome to Rothsport Racing - Engine Products

(oil pipe linky no worky of course....... :rolleyes: )

JB Racing - Porsche Engine Components Have to scroll down a bit to get to the engine fittings

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfcat/srp2009_engine_fuel.pdf Go down to page 9


All my suggestions are unfortunately a bit spendy (except protecting the S-hose with some fiberglass sleeve....... ;) )

However you could use the JB Racing or SmartRacing AN adapter fitting at the case and then use braided hose to get back to the tank. Problem is you need to adapt the hose to be clamp-on at the existing tank fitting, or convert the tank fitting to AN with a welded on adapter.

I used the Rothsport oil tube with my 993 HE's. Rothsport makes some REALLY nice parts!

http://www.rothsport-racing.com/Prod...let1-Small.jpg

This was a concern of mine before I got started. I was told that yes there is a special Porsche tool but most often it's not needed.

So I removed the crank bolt and started to wiggle the pulley/balancer off the crank. Mine came off easily but it had also been removed fairly recently for an engine rebuild.

I'd say try and take it off like any other pulley and see what happens. If it turns out to be stuck on the crank then look up how to make the DIY version of the Porsche tool (I think it's in the Rennlist 964 forum). Alternately if you're not trying to save the OE pulley/balancer for anything then you can use heat on the pulley/balancer to help expand it off the crank. Keep in mind heat will probably destroy the rubber section of the pulley/balancer.

What am I missing from the harness? DME Fuel relay? It's nice that I have the engine fuse/relay box.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306776303.jpg

Very interesting.. Good luck with your pending install....subscribed

Looks good Jeremy....Now that will complete your IROC. :D

B & B headers are here - I'm thinking of going ahead with the 964 throttle cable and modifying it.

SO anybody have a picture of a DME box installed under the seat? I still think I am missing a 2nd connector for the fuel pump relay.