Hi Jeremy -

I ended up cutting off about 12" of the cable housing to make a 964 throttle cable work for me. The gas pedal is now smooth as silk!

Because my seats are lowered, I couldn't mount my DME underneath. I chose the passenger rear seat & had to come up w/some creative wiring harness routing - not the end of the world, but not the most aesthetically pleasing either.

The Patrick wiring harness (which I used) does away with the fuel pump relay - which is nice because my pump now only runs when the engine is running. It always made me nervous that my pump would run w/the key in the 'on' position for obvious accident scenarios.

Your wiring harness looks complete from here, but you will still need to either buy or fabricate additional harness parts/pieces/wiring that connect to both the 14 pin and 6 pin connectors at the DME end of the 964 harness. This essentially connects the DME to the fuel pump, tach, another gauge or two (I can't remember which ones), power for the DME etc... The Patrick harness was a mostly plug & play way to go for me. You can go to their website & download the directions to get an idea of what's entailed.

An aside - I finally drove my car 'around the block' for the first time this past weekend! It didn't catch fire and everything mostly worked. I am having idle issues - in that it won't idle almost at all. I've got a new chip coming that should help, but am also doing some basic diagnosis stuff to see if there are other issues etc... It was nice to drive even 1 mile though!

Tom

Thanks Tom. I am also going with the Patrick harness.

Check you cylinder head temp connection. That can give you idle issues. Especially when cold.

Tom,

I assume you put the patrick throttle cable in after the engine was in the car. Was this a difficult job? I have the Timmins set up, it is working but I would like to switch at some point in the future as I've heard the patrick verison is much smoother to operate.

Thanks,
Mike

So cruise control off http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306894918.jpg

Fuel lines off to go to Amazon - and try to come up with a non porsche solution to the S pipe... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306895015.jpg

Any problem mounting a oil breather tank here? on the side wall of the engine compartment??http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306895085.jpg

The engine is already looking less clutteredhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306895136.jpg

Tom some additional pictures - (which you probably don't need now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306895295.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306895377.jpg

Hi Mike -

I didn't use the Patrick throttle cable, but I did adapt a 964 throttle cable to work. This was about $150 cheaper in addition to the fact that despite having bought some conversion pieces from Patrick, I could not get them to answer questions or return repeated requests for information - so I gave up and made my own.

I did install it after the engine was in the car - not too bad an ordeal. The toughest part was running some plastic tubing that I used as conduit for the cable through the tunnel first. Once that was in, sliding the cable in and out during the adjustment/fitting process was easy. All in all, not too bad (I do have a scissor lift though which does make things under the car a lot easier!).

Tom

Jeremy -

I've seen photos of a lot of catch cans mounted in the corner you posted a photo of. I chose to mount mine on the motor on the other side:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306898452.jpg

a handy reference picture I found. Not a whole lot new - but worth it for the reference

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/95/22...fc1e4792_b.jpg

Put the catch where ever it's most convenient. There's nothing super critical about its location.

I mounted my catch on the 3.2 where the A/C compressor used to be located. The intake had some places where I could connect my home made brackets. I fastened the catch to one of the fuel rail fasteners and I think an empty threaded hole on the intake runner.

On my '79, the catch is in the LR wheel well. A hose runs from the oil tank all the way across the engine bay roof and then thru the wall fwd of where the fuse/elec. panel lies.

just trying to economize and limit the crossing of lines from one side to another... Since I don't have a charcoal canister I may look at ways that I can vent some of these vacuum lines too. Don't want them sucking raw air into the intake...

Jeremy -

I know our intakes are a bit different, but I ended up plugging the lines labeled in the photos below including the one to the charcoal canister (#4). Basically, you want all the intake air coming through the barn door (filter) and none coming through the various vent lines etc... You probably know this already (I didn't!). I posted a thread asking about what lines to plug and didn't get any hits, but I called the guy I sourced my motor from (William Knight) and that's what he said to do.

As an aside, I did a little Italian tune up on my car yesterday and it's running great. The idle has improved and it seems to be running strong. I did some trouble shooting previously and found nothing glaringly wrong or out of sorts, so I just drove it and it all seems to be good at the moment.

Tom

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307034737.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307034760.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307034774.jpg

Yep. What Tom said- plug 'em.

For instance in Tom's pictures, #3 is the one you must plug when you install your oil tank catch can. #4 is the brake boost vaccuum assist, and of course your '74 doesn't have boosted brakes.

Charcoal cannister hookups on the engine can be plugged too. That's what I did on my 3.2 when I removed it and had no problems. My understanding is the charcoal can is a vent for the fuel tank and those fumes are plumbed through the charcoal can and then plumbed to the air filter housing. If you put a cone filter on there, no opportunity to reconnect that charcoal can line

I got the Alternator off - and underneath looked like it had an oil leak for 40,000 miles - or the outside of one of BP's oil rigs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235232.jpg
so decided to bite the bullet and pull the intake.

Couple of gaskets - what the he!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235383.jpg

Finished - oh my

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235614.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235633.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235643.jpg

Aw well - I planned on replacing all the O rings anyway - and the breather cover gasket - so at least I'll start with a cleaner engine (and no PS pump leaking)

Here it is now... good base to build off

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235747.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307235762.jpg

The good thing is that it looks like it's had a fairly recent top end. The valves and valve guides looked really good and fresh.

Fuel lines and S hose firesleeved finished from Amazon.

Got my first shipment from Pelican too so I can start my O ring/seal replacements... Got more MAP gas too - out of 12 exhaust studs - 7 gave up without much of a fight - the others are soaking in PB blaster and will get gassed until they are cherry red and submit!.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307476060.jpg

Nice progress. Check out a penetrating oil called Kroil. Its similar to PB Blaster but works better.Amazing stuff.

all exhaust studs off - woo woo - no drama!

really not too bad.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307497298.jpg

test fit my B & B headers (Thanks Ed)- wonder how hard it is to cut off the heater boxes
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307497356.jpg

These are for ShakinJoe - hey - check out this fit! (this is a BMW Exhaust he found... :D:D:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307497437.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307497486.jpg

A little work - but I planned on that anyway.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307497524.jpg

Good call cutting off the heater boxes if you don't need them. Losing the boxes will definitely make installation of the headers a lot easier.

Hey Jeremy, you're that far apart, have you checked the distributor drive belt yet?

I looked at it - and it looks good - but how else do you know??

Just like the fan belt, if you push on it and cracks open up then it should be replaced. Should have a reasonable amount of tension on it.

When my 915 ate a gear, I bought a gasket kit from Pelican and replaced everything I could on the top end. The kit while not cheap is more economical than buying the parts individually.

I used "Purple Stuff" from Kragen to degrease. Spray pump bottles, a wire brush and a pressure washer. 50/50 with water mix.

Pull the clutch disc the stuff will weld the disc to the flywheel. Drain and rinse the spray bottles or it will eat the plastic pump mechanism.

Consider a WEVO trans upgrade for the intermediate plate.