I believe that's an OBD test plug.

Thanks Scott

Exhaust on
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315004964.jpg

getting there
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315087433.jpg

I love the way the 911 engine looks.....looks like something people would find in the desert near area 51

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315316604.jpg

with catch can

The blue wire for the oil temp - which plug??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315414798.jpg

Jeremy -
On my '74 (I just looked) I replaced a green/black wire with the blue wire from the PM harness. . . Just took a quick look @ the wiring diagram to verify too. . .

This one: ??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315415339.jpg

Thanks Tom -

In an effort to make it easier on the next guy - this is the engine tin that needs to be removed from the back of the engine. It doesn't get in the way of the transmission - it gets in the way of the engine shock tower - anyway - needs to be removed - :) Outlined in yellow

The rear tin is OK (even though I removed a little extra for good measure... )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315582313.jpg

Fuel lines came out well

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315535464.jpg

question for those that have been there - done that - plugged in the DME harness - plugged in the connections for the patrick conversion harness. Do I need to do anything at the engine end? What controls the starter?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315535530.jpg

Shock tower crossmember would probably be a better term

and BTW - with the single pulley conversion, older version engine carrier and engine mounts - with the bump added to the rear parcel shelf - the 964 engine fit fine all the way to the stops...

The engine/chassis harness that uses the 14 pin connector controls the starter. You may have to move a wire or two around.


Yep that's my experience too! Thanks again to Doug for the idea of the gurney bump!

:)

Jeremy....

Nice job on the fuel lines/hoses!

Len

:)

Thanks Len - appreciate it. - and appreciate your help through this all.

Have a couple of questions regarding engine connections - What goes here? Didn't see a corresponding plug

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626589.jpg

Are these blower motor connections?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626704.jpg

I'm guessing this is for the hall sensor - no longer therehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626734.jpg

Extra connector?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626768.jpg

the rest of the engine plugs are pretty well hooked up -

Hi Jeremy,
It looks like you have a tiptronic throttle body with the multiple pins in the contact. If you dont have a tip harness the dme wont see a full throttle contact. I can post pics to show how I dealt with it if you need.
Mark Kinninger

That would be great

Mark,
You need to change your signature to show that killer modded white 996 Turbo that was featured last month in Excellence!

Doug W in SD

Got everything connected - but no start - I can hear the DME clicking - but the starter motor is not going - not sure the fuel pump is going either - although I do have the green wire hooked to the positive lead for the pump.- so partially right - but start - I'll start troubleshooting tomorrow night.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315797017.jpg

Remember, like the 3.2, the computer turns on stage 2 of the DME relay which energizes the fuel pump. It has to see crank movement, first. Lots of times the crank position sensor isn't adjusted properly.

Are you getting spark? If you are getting spark, the DME is seeing the crank move.

Buy, if you don't have one, the fuel injector test light. I think they are called noids.

Hopefully, is something simple. I'm sure it is.

Good luck!

Doug

Arrgghhhhh

Jeremy,

If you want send me a PM with your phone number and we can chat briefly about your wiring. I can look at my car while we're on the phone.

Without looking at my own car to verify - one of those 14 pin connectors connects to the DME harness, the other connects to the '74 chassis harness.

Having the chassis harness connected should allow the starter to spin.

OK - Thanks Scott - I was trying to get into my head how the starter was energized without connecting to the wiring harness of the chassis. from the key side - how does the system know to start the starter? I also need to check that I have 12 volts on the coils too.

I'll PM you my phone number thanks for the offer. But the more I'm thinking about it - there's probably some bridges that I need to make with the chassis harness.