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at least it has gas and oil in it - that's a big step... :) |
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So yes I believe you'll have to move a few pins in your 14 pin '74 chassis connector. Alternately you could make a jumper conversion cable between the chassis connector and "extra" engine 14 pin connector. I suggest getting the pin out diagram for your '74 connector and the pin out diagram for your 964 engine. Adjust pins as necessary. Once your wires are straight your starter should start crankin'! When you turn the key - with the PMS harness and the 964 DME harness installed - once the DME sees the engine spinning at a certain RPM from the starter it'll send signals for fuel and spark. |
I think the starter relay is a yellow lead on the 14 pin connector.
Use a test light and a friend to find which lead at the 14 pin connector (chassis side) lights up with the starter position on the key. From there find the lead on the engine side which you've attached to the starter relay. Another common problem is to wire the DME computer off from a terminal at the fuse box which turns off under start. IE the radio turns off under start, probably headlights, too. The DME will have power, except under cranking. Make sure you don't do that. This problem has been highlighted in many threads. When I think back to my install, I bought a new 14 pin connector, dissassembled the chassis side and moved many of the pins, checking each one with its partner on the engine side. I think several ended up in different positions. Engine sensors like temp, alternator energizer, of course, starter relay are all on that 14 pin connector. Others, disabled are also on there (I think), are the heater blower motor. Doug |
My '77 chassis 14 pin connector currently only uses the following pins with my '91 3.6 engine:
1, 5, 9, 11, 4, 6 Here's a pinout pic of an '81 connector to be attached to a '91 engine: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315835450.jpg My 14 pin connectors. One goes to the DME harness the other goes to the chassis harness: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315835506.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315835792.jpg |
Notice, I had some trouble getting the pins correct. :D I think the photo shows the engine connector. Like Scott, I only used 5 (or six) of the pins.
Printout: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315837044.jpg Testing process: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315837156.jpg |
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I made the mistake Doug mentions in the first quoted paragraph. It took me a few frustrating days of troubleshooting to find it. I posted a thread on it too. I also bought a new 14 Pin connector and rewired the chassis side to mate w/the engine side cleanly. I spent some time w/wiring diagrams from '74 & '90 and a multi meter to make sure everything was where it should be. I'm assuming you have the wiring diagram for the Patrick conversion harness too which is pretty easy to follow (except one wire - see first paragraph!) You're getting good advice from Doug & Scott here - they covered everything I was going to suggest. Tom |
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Alright I have some ammo now... Silly of me to assume that buying a 3.6 conversion harness meant that it was all I needed... |
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Crank at the key and make sure you still have power to the DME at the fuse panel under crank. If not, move to an open one that does. If you see the above photos of my 14 pin connector, I'm almost certain yellow is the starter relay. You'll notice it is of larger gauge than those feeding sensors like temp and oil pressure. Doug |
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Tom |
Doug is quicker than me! At least we're telling you the same thing!!!
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Thanks - I'm feeling a little better about this.
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I'll just reinforce the pin switching for fun. When I worked on a 3.2 going back into a '78 (because we had a 3.6 coming out of a '78 going into an '88 3.2), we had to move pins on the 14 pin harness. I remember vividly that Timmon's instructions saying the red #2 needed to be moved or disconnected or something, otherwise it would "backfeed" the system. Well the eager goofball named einreb who can't read directons just hooked up the 14 pin and turned the key to see what would happen. A ground wire behind the instrument panel decided to release it's magic smoke..... :D
Definitely make sure you've got all the wires going where they should be, before hooking up the battery and keying her on! |
helpful post here
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success - I used the fuse for the air blower - heated rear window - that doesn't go "dead" on crank.
woo woo - I'm a happy camper now. |
that was simple :D
when do you fire it up for the first time? You can double check your gauge connections by either grounding the gauge wire at the engine or using a rheostat and checking gauge sweep (at least for oil pressure and temp). Doug |
about 15 minutes ago
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how's it sound? Any test drives in the near future?
Doug |
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3.6 fire up for the first times - YouTube |
Awesome!
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I like it! Congrats
Doug |
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