Turbo flare questions

[dtw]

I'm beginning the fitting work on my rear flares (turbo) from Restoration Design. So far I have trial-fit the fenders, and found they need to be "stretched" a bit from lower end to end. This brings the outline of the wheel well into line with the old wheel well.

The lip of the stamping is unfinished. I've used a hammer and dollies to roll the fender lip and stiffen up the wheel well. I'm probably going to double roll the fender instead of just slicing off the excess to strengthen things up. (Or should I just slice off the excess to get around a 1/2" lip?)

Those of you who have done this: Did you finish grinding the welded-to-body line of the flare? The cut is a bit rough; I'm thinking if I grind it down just a bit to get a smooth, fluid line, it will be better. Opinions?

Also: when trial fitting the flare, I can get the bottom edges of the flare to line up to where they are supposed to be. But up top, the flare bows out from the body quite a bit. Will this be relieved after I slice away the underlying quarter? Or do I have more finish work to do on the flare.

Thanks for any hints for these questions (and any other general advice). I'll be welding (not epoxying) these flares on.

The front ones will be really exciting- I have to fabricate a section to lengthen the flare to fit the earlier 69-73 fenders I have. Bleh.

-d

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

[dtw]

...bump

[john walker's workshop]

sounds like the rears are crap. all the ones i've put on fit nicely. you fit the bottom ends, tack them in position, clamp the flare in a couple of places with 18-24" vise grips, and use a little air powered hacksaw to make a cut, 4" at a time, right at the edge of the flare, stop and tack that cut, go another 4" or so, tack that, etc,etc. go from one end to the other.(you butt weld these, no overlap). fill in the gaps between the spots an inch here and an inch there, not getting one area too hot. cool with a wet rag if necc. grind down all the welds with a small hard disc grinder, being careful not to get any area too hot (warp). hold a shop light under the weld to check for pinholes and spot those in. as for the big lip, trim it down to match the orig. width.

[dtw]

I think when I rolled the fender to finish the lip, I may have pinched the pressing in just a bit. The flare did fit up quite well before. It literally stretches back into place now, should be fine.

I'll be butt welding, yes. Kick me in the head- I don't have a rear bumper. But as soon as I write this I'm going to order one up. I'll fit it up before spot welding in the flare.

thanks for the tips!

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

[motion]

Hey John - Sounds like you've added the turbo flares many times before... a local shop that specializes in Porsches is quoting me 20 hours at $35 per hour to weld 11" flares onto my '74. No paint or paint prep included. Does that sound reasonable to you?

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-Richard
'84 Carrera Cabriolet
'74 911 Widebody 3.6 Project

[john walker's workshop]

$35 an hour is good. 20 hours for 2 or 4 flares? it takes me at least 20 hours to fit, weld and grind 4 flares. that's at shop rate of $80hr. folks really should use body shops though, because their hourly rate is way less than a repair shop.

[motion]

20 hours for just rear flares. At $700, it sounds like its reasonable. He is reputed to be the best in the area.

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-Richard
'84 Carrera Cabriolet
'74 911 Widebody 3.6 Project