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Look what my brake pads did.
My Porterfield R4 pads where on the low side, so we put a pair of Textar pads in for last weekend's event. Half way through of the second session it felt like I had no brakes so I pulled into my pit area and this is what my front rotors looked like:
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"YELLORS" 1972 911T with a 3.4l, PMO 46's Vierte Tür Klub Member. PCA National DE Instructor |
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Looks like pads too hard...or not "bedded" in correctly before going to the race.
You should not jam on the brakes when first running on changed pads...they need to be seated in gently toavoid this exact problem. Bob
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Bob Hutson |
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Bob, The Textar pads where a slightly used set of pads that I have used on this car for street use.
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"YELLORS" 1972 911T with a 3.4l, PMO 46's Vierte Tür Klub Member. PCA National DE Instructor |
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Max Sluiter
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Pad compound too soft, overheated, and smeared itself all over the rotor?
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Wow, That is pretty incredible. Obviously pictures will only tell you so much but I've never seen anything look like that except when you wear down to the metal backing plates when the brakes are really hot... Or the surface of a plasma faced aluminum flywheel that has worn through the hard surface.
Can't tell from the picture of the rotor but the shiny spots: Are they the remaining original surface, pad pickup or what? And what do the pads look like?
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- "Speed kills! How fast do you want to go?" - anon. - "If More is better then Too Much is just right!!!" - Mad Mac Durgeloh -- Wayne - 87 Carrera coupe -> The pooch. |
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How many miles after you "RE-USED" the pads did you let it re-seat?
I installed Textars from Minx and went to a D.E., did not experience anything unusual issues. But mine seated over 1000 miles before I took her on the course. To be fair, I came dead last so maybe that saved my pads ![]()
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 07-03-2011 at 09:57 AM.. |
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The pads just got WAY TOO HOT and stuck all over the rotors. In all the years I have never seen anything like it.
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"YELLORS" 1972 911T with a 3.4l, PMO 46's Vierte Tür Klub Member. PCA National DE Instructor |
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Yessir,.. thats what happened. Those street pads were massively overheated and thats the result.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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Street pads work ok for your first couple of DE days. Once you get fast they will fail quickly, as you found out.
-Andy
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72 Carrera RS replica, Spec 911 racer |
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My question would be:..How were the pads stored when off the car?
Is it possible they got contaminated by moisture? Bob
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Bob Hutson |
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I had a similar problem after installing some slightly used HT10's after my Porterfields without a proper bed in. Unfortunately, the right side grabbed harder, it was cold and wet, I then took a little off road excursion into the guardrail at Blackhawk. When I got home and checked out the brakes, my disks had dark shiny streaks around them. Couldn't clean it off without turning the rotor.
Note to self, "Don't switch brake compounds without replacing the rotors first."
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'84 Carrera (recently sold ![]() '67 MB 250SL A few Italian motorcycles ......and a minivan for the crew |
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Great info in this thread but...
How do you fix the disks? >>> Just a light skim to remove the remains of the brake pads?
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Usually when this happens to discs and new pads are installed it will feel like you have warped brake discs ( pulsating brake pedal) from the material deposits left by the track used pads. Solution is to have discs resurfaced if they are within machining specs.
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Max Sluiter
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"Blanchard" ginding, not turning on a lathe.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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JMHO,.....
Never turn rotors (except certain expensive racing ones); all that does is remove the much-needed mass and accelerates any potential warpage issues. The best way to clean rotors that I've found is to use a partially worn (or new) set of Hawk Blues due to their very aggressive compound. I don't care for them except for this express purpose. One trip around the block with those things and Voila': you are all set.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Quote:
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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There is no substitute
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I would slap on a new set of pads, and run them through.. They should be fine after a day of street driving.
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The Hacker 96 C4S 97 C2 (Gone, but not forgotten |
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If any pads are put in at this point they should be the Hawk Blue as Steve mentioned. The are a very aggressive compound and work at lower temperatures. If they take off the glaze then remove them and go back to stock pads. This may or may not fix those rotors as they are some of the worst I've seen as far as pad transfer.
Of course track pads, proper brake cooling and high temp. fluid are in order for the next track day. |
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