I am Stuck, Replaced the CDI & Coil & Still No Spark!

[Vincent Hill]

I came out of Church and the car started right up and Instantly Died. I put in the Relay that causes the fuel pump to run full time and had fuel. I then checked the spark and had "ZERO"!

Thinking it was the Permatune Unit, I ordered the MSD 6AL and spent today Mounting and wiring it. I got everything set and turned the engine over and it did not start. I then mounted to new MSD Vibration Coil and NO Spark.

I then look in the book and test Terminal 15 and 13.25 Volts. I then test Terminal 7 and 31.1 and see the figures change. I do not know if that means the Distributor is Pulsing.

What is going on here? I have never has this before where a new CDI did not cure it. Is there something in my DIstributor I need to replace or do I need to get a rebuilt / New Distributor?

BTW, The people that first bought a MSD and figured out how to set it up, my hat is off to you for figuring that out. I mounted mine under the Drivers seat and still need a little longer screws to set it higher off the floor for cooling.

[john walker's workshop]

is the coaxial wire in good shape? that's the green cable that plugs into the distributor. they get brittle, disintegrate and the outer braid touches the inner signal wire and voila!

[T77911S]

this is for an 82?

how is the ground connection from the engine to the body? check the resistance between the MSD gnd, coil negative, and engine.
any old ignition wiring used?

[JP911]

How did you wire the MSD? Create your own harness or splice/plug into the factory CDI connector?

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

is the coaxial wire in good shape? that's the green cable that plugs into the distributor. they get brittle, disintegrate and the outer braid touches the inner signal wire and voila!

This is what I was looking for! Thanks Dr. John. I "Looked" at a Brown covered wire coming out of the right side / back of the Distributor so I will go through that wiring and see what it up. I guess it is Connected to a Plate in the Dist and then goes to the "6" Prong plug?

I hope that this plate and wire are able to be purchased??

[JP911]

Distributor wire: Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-602-907-01-M14

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by JP911

How did you wire the MSD? Create your own harness or splice/plug into the factory CDI connector?

There was a Picture on the Board of how to wire it. I bought the Shrink Wrap Spade Connectors at AutoZone and had to add about 2 feet to the Wire Loom than comes with it! So "Do Not cut the Purple and Green Wire that have a connection at each end to the length of the other wires but make the 0ther wires the length of them!"

This way I was able to mount the unit under the Drivers Seat and cut a 3/4 inch hole in the inspection Cover for the Shift Shaft. It is Simply too dangerous to drill a hole in the tunnel with all of the tubes that connect the Fuel, Brakes and everything else! The Rubber Grommet selection at A.Z. ALso covered the 3/4" hole and the 5/8 inch hole I placed into the Vertical Shroudding on the left side of the engine.

SO yes, I kept everything original at the Plug including leaving the Permatune CDI in Place. Now If I can get this fixed, I will have 2 ignitions sources in case one goes bad!

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by T77911S

this is for an 82?

how is the ground connection from the engine to the body? check the resistance between the MSD gnd, coil negative, and engine.
any old ignition wiring used?

Thanks for your reply. I looked at the strap when I was doing the wiring and the strap looked to be in good condition. I also tested the ground for the coil with my meter and it was good. (There are 3 ground wires going to this.

I did not check the resistance on the coil Ground but I did ground the Large Black Ground wire to the Transmission and the large red wire to the Main Battery cable at the Starter.

Yes it is my 1982.

[Bob Kontak]

The wire should definitely be green and it plugs into the distributor for a stock 82. No plate.

Edit - Do you have points?

Edit again - However, points sent the same trigger charge to the CD box - just not as slick as a reluctor and stator collapsing field set up with no wear parts.

[Ken911]

If it is no longer green and has turned brown from the heat then it's most likely shot. There is a link on here from somone who rebuilt thiers with the existing plug. however chances of success are slim one it's been over heated enough to discolor. The plug will be brittle also. check yours it's it's the short one about 10 inches long with a plug on both ends. if it's hard wired to the plug on the cdi box. ththe you need the 30 inch long one for a 928 and then cut the pluf odd the cdi box rend and reterminate it.

[Ken911]

Best way to check is pull the distributor out of the car. check the resistance across the the col connection should be 600 ohms. Then spin the gear on the bottom and see if the resistance jumps all over the place. if it does than the distributor igniter coil is working and sending an output signal. before you pull the distributor out do the same thing with the cdi box end unplugged and measure resistance there also 600 ohms then have someone crank the car over and see if it jumps around if it does the green wire is good and you have another problem. If not then pull the distributor and test as shown above. if it fails then it's the igniter coil in the distributor.

[Bob Kontak]

Can't see that wire turning brown the whole length. Just saying. Hell, I may be wrong but man, that would be some heat.

I bought the 928 wire for mine - way easier to deal with.

Also, green wire is not "fully" hard wired to the CD plug. You can push the individual female end out of the plug. This can also be a problem source as tired female connectors can be forced back when plugged in just like in the 14 pin connectors.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Ken911

Best way to check is pull the distributor out of the car. check the resistance across the the col connection should be 600 ohms. Then spin the gear on the bottom and see if the resistance jumps all over the place. if it does than the distributor igniter coil is working and sending an output signal. before you pull the distributor out do the same thing with the cdi box end unplugged and measure resistance there also 600 ohms then have someone crank the car over and see if it jumps around if it does the green wire is good and you have another problem. If not then pull the distributor and test as shown above. if it fails then it's the igniter coil in the distributor.

I like the test - I wish I had known this one 10 years ago. Why would you pull the dist and spin the gear as it sounds like the same test results could be found with the key turning and checking at the CDI box end of the green wire?

Edit - The green wire splits into two connectors at the plug, right?

[Ken911]

you tes first unplug from the cdi box which narrows it to the wire or the distributor. If no signal the pull the distributor and test again. this tells you if it's the igniter coil. I's also a good idea to wiggle the green wire when testing it since this is an intermittant short most of the time.

[Vincent Hill]

I am a Happy man!! Last night when I put the meter on the 2 wires the figures were all over the place. I saw the price of the Green wire and that is very reasonable plus not part of something I need to buy! I will pull it out tonight and take a Picture! If you knew how I felt about Green you would more understand this!

All of my Motorcycles are Green, Even my house was Green when I bought it so no way I would have missed a Green wire!

[Ken911]

before you buy the wire make sure it's not the igniter coil in the distributer.

[RoninLB]

Originally Posted by Vincent Hill

I am a Happy man!!

this was a good adventure story

and I placed a 4x75 audio amp under the driver's seat

when I was pounding out tunes with the 2 front speakers and rear seat floor sub the amp would over heat and pop the auto shut down.

I bought a small fan that looks like the one inside a computer tower from radio shack that blows over the amp. It stopped tripping. There are many sizes to pick from

MSDs get hot. It seems that 75F and moderate street driving is the ambient temp where I can't squeeze the CD box without experiencing pain. Mine is mounted outside the engine compartment electric panel cover

all electrics eventually fail. Having a back up ready is relaxing

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

this was a good adventure story

and I placed a 4x75 audio amp under the driver's seat

when I was pounding out tunes with the 2 front speakers and rear seat floor sub the amp would over heat and pop the auto shut down.

I bought a small fan that looks like the one inside a computer tower from radio shack that blows over the amp. It stopped tripping. There are many sizes to pick from

MSDs get hot. It seems that 75F and moderate street driving is the ambient temp where I can't squeeze the CD box without experiencing pain. Mine is mounted outside the engine compartment electric panel cover

all electrics eventually fail. Having a back up ready is relaxing

The Fan is an Excellent Idea. My thinking is, I put the Mounts directly on the Floor Pan and cut the Carpet and Mats to sit over the Mounts but the MSD Box is touching the floor. I am going to use longer Screws and small Nuts to it will be 1/4 to 3/8" off the floor for Airflow all around.

My thinking is, in the Summer time we use the AC and inside is fairly cool and in the Winter, no problem. Like My Oil Cooler I have a fan and plan to mount it soon!

[john walker's workshop]

and now you have a heated seat to boot.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Ken911

before you buy the wire make sure it's not the igniter coil in the distributer.

By Igniter Coil you mean the Pulse Generator which is not available separately nowadays?

I looked at the wire today when I went home for lunch. I can see that it "WAS" Green at one time and now is a Olive Drab (Sort of Military Camouflage)

Now that I have looked up this part and see that it is not available, What do you do if it is needed?? Has someone made a Replacement part?