Dry ice results

[smiles11]

Had my new to me 71T dry iced last month & wanted to share the results. I went through Dry Ice Werks in Grass Valley, CA. Jurgen did an excellent job on the car! He uses a specialized machine from Germany that can dial down the pressure when needed. Delicate enough to be used on touchscreens! He is very aware of sensitive areas under longhood cars. While also keeping as much originality possible.

https://2shoresdryicewerks.com/

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Before

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After

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[Tippy]

Looks great

[911mhutch]

Wow........ thanks for posting the before and after ....very informative and useful information.

[sdmcoupe]

what is cost of getting this done?

[AlBackus36]

When do you restore corrosion resistance?

I keep thinking, wow these cars look great once cleaned... Wonder why

[phunt]

what is cost of getting this done?
not cheap. I contacted this guy a couple years ago and he told me $250 an hour and it takes a long time to do I just wanted my engine done already disassembled. he said minimum 4 hours. so I went a different way

[blucille]

I think AlBackus36 is hinting at this....here's my concern, my 52 year old 911 has held up remarkably well, my 45 year old one, pretty well too.....both were driven in northern US climates, saw frequent use when they were 5, 10, 15 years old and then, driven sparingly. Both 1-owner cars. Both were Ziebarted, which, I believe helped the inner cavities of rocker panels, fenders and doors more than you would expect.

Whatever the case, both these cars shined up well with some scrubbing and simple green...steam clean, pressure wash, nothing too much. Neither will ever be show cars.

Both cars still have some undercoat, both cars still show signs of the factory waxy cosmoline on the underside where the Ziebart treatments didn't go (nuts and bolts, engine, trans, suspension hardware.

I fear that using dry ice will reveal the raw steel surfaces and here in the humid northeast, and in coastal regions with salt in the humid air, and those freshly exposed raw surfaces are more prone to rust now than ever before.

So, I'm very curious to see what these dry iced cars look like in 3, 5 or 10 years.

[PeteKz]

FYI, My 1973.5T was an East coast car and was Ziebarted when new. The last 25 years have been garaged, but the first 25 years and 100,000 miles it lived much of its life outside. It has almost no rust, except a few spots where the Ziebart didn't go, or didn't stay. The whole tub is excellent, except where it got water down inside the rear buckets from an old and leaking rear window seal.

Ziebart works if it was applied when the car was new.

But 50 years later, I still get that goo on my hands when I'm working under the car!

[smiles11]

Jurgen will give you options. The existing cosmoline coverage wasn’t great which was to be expected. So it’s a personal preference if one believes the cosmoline has run its course. I assume coastal weather or northern climates play a huge factor to what kind of protection folks use. What little cosmoline was left was only on partial areas of already painted metal. Easy to reapply protection once the car is cleaned up. Luckily I’m in a dry climate & the car won’t see any rain. If it does, the car goes up on the lift & underside can easily be detailed. Job was 2-3 days & I paid $2500 for underbody & suspension. I believe it’s a little more if you do the engine bay. Mine didn’t need it.

[Balisong]

I was under the impression this was way more expensive. Unfortunately, nobody is doing this anywhere near my city.

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by blucille

I think AlBackus36 is hinting at this....here's my concern, my 52 year old 911 has held up remarkably well, my 45 year old one, pretty well too.....both were driven in northern US climates, saw frequent use when they were 5, 10, 15 years old and then, driven sparingly. Both 1-owner cars. Both were Ziebarted, which, I believe helped the inner cavities of rocker panels, fenders and doors more than you would expect.

Whatever the case, both these cars shined up well with some scrubbing and simple green...steam clean, pressure wash, nothing too much. Neither will ever be show cars.

Both cars still have some undercoat, both cars still show signs of the factory waxy cosmoline on the underside where the Ziebart treatments didn't go (nuts and bolts, engine, trans, suspension hardware.

I fear that using dry ice will reveal the raw steel surfaces and here in the humid northeast, and in coastal regions with salt in the humid air, and those freshly exposed raw surfaces are more prone to rust now than ever before.

So, I'm very curious to see what these dry iced cars look like in 3, 5 or 10 years.

^^^^ yup this^^^^^^^^^^^^
My 85 911 went Germany, Finland,California ,France,Bohemia-Czech Republic now ..no rust whatsoever...

Ivan

[slow&rusty]

Looks sharp

[Dr J]

A place near Miami called TuneRS does this. They had a car on a lift where they did one half of the car so that you could compare the condition side to side. It was truly impressive. The process
removed all of the dirt yet did not damage delicate parts. It cleaned the rubber too.

I was tempted, but found that the price was around $2.5k which, for some cases, it would be definitely worth it. However, my car is going back on the street to get dirty again. That price was from about 4 years ago.

https://tunersmotorsports.com/restoration/cryodetail/

[Showdown]

You can buy a dry ice blasting machine from alibaba for about $2k shipped. Certainly it’s not going to be as nice or as refined as those costing more but think of it as a harbor freight tool and it’s fine.

You can buy dry ice pellets on Amazon for about $200 for 80 pounds, probably for less from a wholesaler.

So, if you get a few friends to split the cost it becomes much more reasonable…

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by Showdown

You can buy a dry ice blasting machine from alibaba for about $2k shipped. Certainly it’s not going to be as nice or as refined as those costing more but think of it as a harbor freight tool and it’s fine.

You can buy dry ice pellets on Amazon for about $200 for 80 pounds, probably for less from a wholesaler.

So, if you get a few friends to split the cost it becomes much more reasonable…

You’re forgetting the most important, expensive piece of equipment. An air compressor capable of maintaining 30cfm@80psi for a small machine. Some larger machines need 100cfm compressors.