Congratulations on getting it fired

Great thread my man! I just finished reading it all from start to finish. And the last few posts are awesome. Those PMO's look FANTASTIC!!!! Keep going! I'm taking notes!

Steve

Thanks Steve, it has been a ton of work, with lots left to do.
My hands are going to take a while to recover from all the nicks, bruises and cuts.
My back too!

Answered my own question.
The power mirror change over switch works great as a manual oil cooler fan switch. :)
Seeing as my ROW car only has the driver mirror powered, none was installed. But I had one on hand that didn’t work well until I sprayed some Deoxit in it and worked it around.
Looks factory mounted in the dash, and does what it needs to do.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1624203883.jpg

Well that was a PITA…
Running the condensate drains from the bottom of the blower motor sucks!
One of the glued on “drains” was off when the unit arrived. Looks like they just hot glue gun them on. Gorilla glue took care of that problem. Then the other one came off as I was trying to get the hose on. More gorilla glue…

The clearance to the “deck” is not enough to gently bend the hose without getting a kink to run it to a drain hole. I chose to run it to the original drain hose that goes out via the Smugglers Box.

My solution: I cut 2 of the 90 elbows down at the barbs 1/2 way on one side and removed the remaining barb ridge with an Exacto knife. It is a really good friction fit into the original drains and allows room to install the hoses. I could glue them in place later if they ever pop out, but a good downward push didn’t move them.

Photo shows the end result. 2 90’s straight out the box into the tubing that runs to the “T” and down into the original drain hose. The left side required an additional 90 so it would smoothly run to the “T” .
My only change may be to find and use black plastic barbs for aesthetics…
(Or maybe just a sharpie…)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1624247765.jpg

Looks awesome.

Thanks Mike, trying to keep it all as clean and simple as I can.

Timmy, apologies to disrupt the flow here, but I’ve run out of ideas on how to contact you. It seems as if I have fewer options at my disposal when logged in as a new member than as an unregistered guest touring the site anonymously. Chalk it up to ‘new guy’ troubles.

Could you send me a PM (since I cannot send one to you), this has to do with an old thread here where you helped a member with his R rear parking light short. I didn’t want to a top a years old thread for this. Thank you! -Stefan

Just resurrect the thread. Others benefit from reading and contributing.

My topper is in, waiting for approval. Thanks

Good, unlike a small group of others on the board, I prefer to share possible solutions to problems for all to see and chime in on, versus PM’s.
Everyone benefits. :)
Besides, I’m pretty busy, so someone else may chime in with the solution before I even look at it…

Ductwork…
Needed to build something to utilize the extra cold air duct on the blower unit to supply the center bow tie vents under the dash.
As there was an aftermarket Dealer A/C installed at some time, I was faced with this to work with.
Big duct in the smugglers box to cap and a very limited height to make an air supply duct on top.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625277326.jpg

I worked with a local to me member (faunadical) who happens to be a whiz at auto cad to come up with the adapter for there and for the big outlet duct to reduce to 40mm hose.
I printed them out in ABS on my 3D printer.
We came up with these.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625277563.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625277563.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625277563.jpg

Here is the final product:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625277621.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625277621.jpg

The smugglers box cap is siliconed in place and I siliconed the blower 90 piece that was a great friction fit as it was.

I’m really happy with the looks and functionality of the end result.

Better photos. (Maybe) :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625278156.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625278404.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625278404.jpg

Wow time flies by, can’t believe it has been 6 weeks since I initially installed the Electric A/C system.

I was asked this week to check the air flow speed on my vents and that motivated me to get to work on the system. (Charge it up)

Today I vacuumed the system and saw I had a minor leak, so I pressurized it and found one fitting on the fender mounted condenser leaking. I got lucky as it was the one closest to the tire so very easily accessible. I had pinched an O-ring.

I replaced the metric O-ring from my kit of metric O-rings, re-pressurized and it held for an hour.
Then I vacuumed the system agin for 4 hours and then filled it with the proper amount of refrigerant.

First running test was done to see if it was cooling, just off battery in the garage with the engine off. (Still need to go tune my ITBs)
Garage temp was 22 C (72 F).
In about 3 minutes I saw a center vent temp of 15 C (60 F).
Compressor was cycling as it should be with it just running on a non-charging Battery.

I’m very happy with the initial results.

Now maybe I can go drive and road tune my ITBs and not die from the heat waves we keep having here…

Final note: I pressurized with dry compressed air, then I vacuumed for a long time to eliminate any moisture. (I do this type of work in my day job on massive 500 KV A/C breakers, so I am confident it worked to remove all of the moisture in such a small volume system)
And…. Wait for it…. I filled the system with the correct volume of refrigerant from 2 12 oz cans of pure R-134a from Harbor freight. 20.4 oz total.

I do need to eventually run my laptop on the system and do the updates, but that will come later. It works now, so why mess with it… :)

Freed up some time to do some road tuning.
1. Old laptop won’t fire up or hold a charge and then does a disk check.
Grab a different laptop…
2. Car won’t start.
Discovered the 42 year old fuel pump relay died.
New spare ChiCom relay installed, car starts.
3. Speedometer has now stopped working.
Still tracing that one out. Could have screwed up the wires installing the new engine harness
4. Go for a drive, and she runs and drives great for the way I have it tuned,
but I need it to decel a little more quickly and do some more tuning.
5. The new A/C worked great in my opinion. Only around 80 out but it sure felt nice. I even had to drop it to medium fan speed.

Seems as though every time I make a mod, I have to fix some other old system. ;)

Dennis,

When you installed the alternator and the 4 gauge wire, did the wires fit through the standard hole in the front of the fan shroud? I'm trying to assess the easiest way to install my 175 amp alternator.

Thinking it can be done without an engine drop, maybe just a partial drop. I realize the grommet hole in the engine tin needs to be enlarged to fit the new wire/wires.

The new cable fit through the original style grommet and the engine tin grommet.
I know a guy, and he built a new engine harness for the installation with the 4awg cable in it. :)
There is one picture on page 14 of this thread with the Alt installed (and ECU wiring all over the top) where you can just make out the new harness headed through the engine tin area grommet.
Also, I replaced my engine harness without an engine drop, but the top of the engine had nothing on it. Still a pain routing the wiring to the reverse switch.