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Can't remove the lower bolt on my shocks

Any tips for removing the lower bolt on my rear shocks? I've tried a breaker bar and a 3lb sledge. The top bolts came off with no problem whatsoever but the lowers are a different story. Any tips would be appreciated.

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Old 08-07-2011, 02:06 PM
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push up on the bottom with a bottle jack - use a wood or rubber spacer

when it gets to the right spot it will no doubt be fingers only to remove
Old 08-07-2011, 02:11 PM
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pb blaster, wait a few hours. get a 3' length of pipe to put over the breaker bar.
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:15 PM
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I like to use a 3 ton jack handle over the 1/2 in drive. Once it snaps it will come right out.
Old 08-07-2011, 02:29 PM
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Did you remove the rear wheels or do you have the wheels on the ground?
Bentley advises to have the wheels on the ground to relieve pressure, however you can also use a jack under the trailing arm as suggested by RWebb to achieve the same effect.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:18 PM
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1/2 inch impact wrench from Ingersol Rand, cranked up to 120psi. Never fails.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:31 PM
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Tagging on to Gustyones shock thread...I'm planning to remove and send out for overhaul my Bilstiens while my engine is out. Can the chassis be rolled around with the rear shocks removed?? TIA

Thor
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:48 PM
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Thanks for the great advice - I got them loose. Those suckers were on there tight. I used the jack handle extension on my breaker and it still took everything I had. Even after soaking in PB Blaster. I need to get an impact wrench!
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:56 PM
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I always start soaking stuff in Kroil and tapping on them 1-2 weeks before I intend to pull it apart - it takes time for the penetrants to work
Old 08-07-2011, 05:57 PM
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right direction?

lefty loosy righty tighty.
but its backwards if your doing it from the outside.
ask me how I know.
Old 08-07-2011, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown747 View Post
Tagging on to Gustyones shock thread...I'm planning to remove and send out for overhaul my Bilstiens while my engine is out. Can the chassis be rolled around with the rear shocks removed?? TIA

Thor
Yes
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWebb View Post
I always start soaking stuff in Kroil and tapping on them 1-2 weeks before I intend to pull it apart - it takes time for the penetrants to work
This is something I've come to learn over the years,.....VERY GOOD SUGGESTION!!!!!!!!!!!

BEST!

Doyle
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustyones View Post
I need to get an impact wrench!
PBoys has the Good Year 19v batttery Impact gun, works well for the price, I use it all the time
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG View Post
PBoys has the Good Year 19v batttery Impact gun, works well for the price, I use it all the time
Good one,..I was JUST thinking of where to get something on the cheap....this should help me with DIY rear shock changeout...

Thanks, DRACO!

BEST!

Doyle
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:14 PM
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Can't take credit Steve W, turned me on to it. Allot of Track guys use it on DE/AX events

When fully charged, for the lugs, 3 clicks and it is pretty close to 96lb / sq ft torque then I finish with the torque wrench. With the included extension it is 10-15 lbs less.
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:19 PM
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Get some anti-seize and apply to the threads during reassembly. Under the car isn't the ideal environment. This will conserve the needed torque next time.

Sherwood
Old 08-07-2011, 08:45 PM
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For future reference.....my dad was a blacksmith, he taught me that at times, a good whack with a hammer, steel on steel but with a sacrificial piece in between so you don't bugger the head, into the fastener will help a lot, plus sometimes if you try a tightening direction (shouldn't make any progress) will break the corrosion or bond that holds the fasteners in.

I have a chunky punch that distributes the blow a fair bit (probably 1 cm face) and I give a few solid taps (no 1 kg hammers please...I use a light ball peen) works wonders.

D,

Old 08-08-2011, 04:50 AM
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