A 1967 R Interpretation Project
 

I purchased this car about five years ago and have been planning this build ever since. I'm sure some of you can relate, but I actually dream about this project... regularly. I make lists. I study previous Pelicanites' builds. I browse eb*y weekly looking for a steal... I put together folders of different photos of specific areas that I admire and want for my project...

I am addicted to this project and I have barely begun.

I hope you are patient because I can't guarantee how long this will take. 1 year. Maybe 2... I will tell you that I get these 'bursts' of motivation where I can multitask and make strides.

I've already taken the car down to bare metal with an os and sprayed with a rust inhibitor. I've sanded the first three coats of primer up to 400 (long way to go... I know).

The interior has been stripped and the drivers and passengers floor boards where replaced. I found some rust on the rear parcel shelf and seat corners along with the gas tank/suspension pan.

I've purchased replacements for the above. I am currently working on the dash.

As for the final look... Charcoal Grey. Perhaps a 3.0, 3.2... Aggressively low, tight suspension. No logos. Vintage racing interior seats/harness (Nurburgring). Accents of rustic oiled brown leather, i.e. door pulls, door stops, etc...

I really could go on... I want the car to respect the potential it has.

I will post as many photos as I can. And please - any advice will help!

Thanks, enjoy.

Steve

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Cool! Looking forward to seeing this one progress.

Here are a few questions that I already have:

-Do I need to remove the engine in order to safely cut out/weld in rear shelf? My main concern is blowing up... Will covering the engine suffice?

-I am a bit intimidated by removing a gas tank. Is there a protocol? Should this be done outside? Fumes?

-Lastly, is removing the entire wiring system necessary? It looks and feels grimy and old. It works fine and I don't want to go over my head. It looks like a labyrinth...

These are my only concerns thus far...

Thanks!

Steve

Thanks, Rich. It's a labor of love!

keep keeping at it!

Looking good Steve...

Steve,

That looks like a big project, but it will be a great car when done. I can well remember the early restoration obsession and excitement.

It's not obvious what your overall plan is. You mention putting a new engine in ('3.0 or 3.2'), so I don't know why you wouldn't just remove what's in there now. Are you hoping to paint the car, drive it for a while, and then replace the engine further down the line? Is it running at present? In any case getting it out would enable you to more completely inspect and fix whatever rust issues there are in the rear, torsion tube area, seat pans, etc..

Pulling the gas tank isn't difficult (if it's mostly empty, which it should be if you're doing welding near it), and it will be mandatory for replacing the front suspension pan. I guess your tank's drain plug would be at the rear bottom near the fuel line hoses. The threaded plug may not come out easily, and you may be best off cutting one of the hoses and draining that way (you'd want to replace most of the old fuel hoses anyway.) Then disconnect the filler hose, vent hose, level sender wiring, and three clamps around the edges, then it just lifts out. Plug, cover all the holes to keep the fumes down in your workspace. You may want to get it professionally cleaned and coated to keep it from rusting. Look into treatment options for different year's tanks.

What are the suspension plans? Have you inspected all the old bushings? It's probably wise to plan to replace and rebuild most of that now, especially if you're aiming at a high performance build.

Wiring removal? Usually not necessary. Just make sure to mark them and take lots and lots of pictures before disconnecting everything. (A good photographic record is a huge asset in putting a car back together. It looks to me like you need to invest in a better camera.) Do you have the original wiring diagram for your car? They're available and indispensable.

Keep posting your progress, and the Pelican world will follow along eagerly.

Good luck,
Mike

Thanks, Mike.

This is exactly why I'm posting my build - to receive helpful advice and support!

I plan on tackling the gas tank within the next few days. There is a shop that will fix it up and seal it. There is gas in it at the moment, so draining it will be necessary.

I'm taking pictures using my iPh*ne and want to save my money for the car... I'll just add better lighting!

Today I'm cutting new sheet metal to fill in the spots I've cut out. Stay tuned...

Steve,
I know the excitement of starting the resto.......as well as the feeling of being overwhelmed. which occurs at several stages along the way. I would usually try to have one mechanical/electrical task, as well as a purely aesthetic task to work on. When the mechanical side of the project was not going well, and my brain just could not work it out, I would shift over to the aesthetic side and the "shiny" progress there would get my head back into the game. Also +1 on taking many....many pix and label all the wiring. Since completing my 71E resto, I have been helping a friend on his 77S IROC clone project. One of the most time consuming aspects has come about, due to the lack of labeling of the wiring. I have spent many hours, with the multi-meter, performing a complete continuity check and marking off the wiring diagram as circuits are proofed, prior to hooking them up. You'll save yourself many hours...later, if you take the time, up front.

Great project.

regards,
al

Looks great Steve! Keep at it. It looks really close to where our project is currently at. We had to do the same thing for the front pan, as well as other parts. If you need help or advice, keep on posting and we'll chime in when we can!

my build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/488187-help-me-style-beat-up-old-912-a.html

Thanks guys.

I am filling in the ash tray and radio permanently. Cut out replacement pieces from sheet metal.

I am going to stick to the interior for the weekend. I want to clean up the dash; completely simplify it. Once the pieces are welded in place and smoothed out, I'll prime and paint the entire dash in stain black. I am contemplating sending my gauges to a professional to redo unless I can pry them open somehow. I took the RPM gauge out to clean up and I can't seem to open it up... I polished the metal trim a bit and it cleans up rather simply. It's the faded numbering and slight fog on the inside of the glass that I want to address.

I'm also looking for new pull knobs and rings for the dash once it's finished.

The steering wheel in an RS model currently. I would like to add the vintage puck at some point.

-Steve


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Steve ...i love what your doing here... Saw the car and its truly a beauty....

keep the original engine (unless it is a 912) ...upgrade it with bigger carbs and a loud exaust :)

Osoyoos larose

Thanks, Patrick.

Giovanni86 - The shell is in fact a 912 and I am pulling the engine this week (not orig). Once the engine bay is cleared up I shouldn't have any problem with the rear shelf replacement.

I still want everything done right, even if some of these places may never be seen again.

I'm in no rush so I can take my time with every detail... Plus, I find this forum keeps you honest.

-Steve

Received a box full-o-leather today. I plan on recovering the dash, under dash, and custom door skins. This vintage grain is exactly what I wanted for the interior.

A bit premature, but like most of the project, I'll be working on all sorts of things at the same time... Mmm, the smell of leather!

-Steve

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Here's a sketch of the door pulls I'm planning on fabricating. They will have a brown leather sleeve on top against the black leather door panels. It simplifies the panel and will compliment the early racer look I'm going for.

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Steve,

One of the hallmarks of the 911R (and interpretations) is lightweight.

One of the ‘facts-of-life’ of our old 911s is rust.
Another is progressively improved technology.

Your next ‘order-of-business’ could be to remove absolutely everything from the chassis, including old undercoat.
Build a dolly for the chassis (wood 4x4s and six casters will do).
Plan on building a rotisserie.
Source Celeste jig access.

Not only do you want to have an absolutely bare chassis and repair the existing rust but there are serious chassis strengthening to be done.
You don’t want to build a nice 911R interpretation, only to have the rear torsion tube fail.

There are quite a number of these 911s; both finished and in process.
Continue using these as a ‘guide’. Please post links.
We can help rank ideas as ‘critical’ to ‘would be nice’.

For example, if you plan to use any fuel injection engine, the chassis does not have the necessary return fuel pipe.
“Aggressively low” involves repositioning and clearancing many things; outboard CV joint-to-chassis for example.
Using the LWB front suspension allows for lowering by repositioning the spindle and you get the benefit of later geometry.
You can even convert to LWB and have it not obvious.
Installing your new ‘front pan’ can be done with the suspension mounts farther ‘up’ in the chassis.
Even the rear can be ‘raised’ in the chassis to the point you must raise the rear of the engine to prevent dragging.
There is a LOT more.
(Someone here is rehabbing Alan Fritze’s ’66 chassis that has many of these mods.)

The big issue is lightweight.
A sub-2000# 911 (sub-1900#?) allows for smaller everything (engine, trans, brakes, etc.) and have outstanding performance.
As soon as you discuss a 3.0/3.2 and other, you start discussing 915 transmissions, big brakes, wide tires & wheels and more weight.
A well built 2.5/2.8 can still use the 901/911 transmission and have outrageous street performance.


So … please post your ideas and links to others’ projects and evaluate the advice.
You will find most has been successfully done or tried and abandoned.
You want to learn from others’ success and avoid prior mistakes.


Some thoughts:

Don’t try and ‘pry open’ the instruments. Send them to a ‘pro’ with the special tools.
You still have the 912 (or non-S) instruments. Get the pieces to complete ‘S’ instruments.
Aside from service and reconditioning, adding a ‘low oil pressure warning light’ and re-calibrate the speedo for 150 mph (assuming you have an 8000 rpm 6-cylinder tach) are the only mods I would recommend.
The green/white instruments are great when new looking.

You will want to convert to the dual master cylinder from ’68 and later.

For a lightweight interior, you can sew black Nomex to replicate (sorta) the original panels and add your leather touches. This is very lightweight.

Consider improving the seat and seat belt mountings, including shoulder harness.

You have a very nice steering wheel. The ’68 and earlier horn ‘butterfly’ will fit nicely.

A good source for original steel pieces is from a salvage chassis.

Be gentle with your wiring harness. It will survive nicely unless you stress it out of position too much.
You will want to add fuses to several of the unfused circuits and relays for the headlights.
Inspect the condition of the connections at the ignition switch, headlight switch and the gray connectors under the dash (above your left knee).

Virtually every little system in the car can benefit from service, repair or update.

Best,
Grady

I have had good success with unwrapping the taped wiring loom, cleaning the wires with a degreaser like "simple green" and then wrapping again with black 3M electrical tape.

Thank you, Grady.

Your info is invaluable. Where else would I get this guidance? No where! I love it!

I've got a great collection going of ideas, pics, sketches, that are destined for this ride. But editing correctly is the challenge.

Ideally, I want the car to be able to handle me. I'm not easy to please. It will respect the vintage racer with my personal touch.

Thanks, Kiwiokie, as well.

Here's a sneak peak of the leather-wrapped door panel I'm working on.

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Steve,

Your new door panel looks great.

How much does it weigh with the hardware, pull strap and latch handle?
How much weight was the original panel, pocket, grab handle and latch mechanism?

Have you considered a plastic window with a leather strap lift?

There is a later aluminum (not chrome plated brass) window frame.

Some remove the inner part of the door, window & regulator, window frame and use plug-in ‘side curtains’ (like 356 Speedster).

There were plastic door handles and aluminum latch assemblies.
Even the door restraint was a simple strap.

Think “lightweight”.
If it isn’t there, it doesn’t weigh anything, didn’t cost anything, can’t break and isn’t in the way.

Best,
Grady

Grady,

I'm working on a leather lift strap for the window. The aluminum frame sounds great. I'll look in to that.

Thanks again!

Steve

I am working on the interior at the moment of my SWB, in particularly the fascia.

I am going for a clean, un-interupted fascia, while still covering with a leather skin straight across. I'd like to house the leather in the aluminum bracket that holds the 'waffle' fabric. The only problem is I can't seem to find one. Does anyone know where to get ahold of one? Or is there a Pelican with a complete metal bracket trim willing to sell??? I believe it's a four-piece set: left and right of steering wheel, glove box door, and far right corner.

PM me if there's a set out there.

Thanks!

Steve

More interior pics...
 

Here are a few pics of the rear wheel arch being recovered. The condition of the panel was great, so I just sanded it clean, wiped it down, and wrapped it with leather. In fact, all of the interior parts were in very good condition. I still stripped them down and took that crackling vinyl off...

-Steve

(any leads on the metal trim for the fascia?)

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New handle mock-up...
 

This is a rough prototype of the handle. I plan on reworking it a bit to be more ergo-friendly, but when finished it'll get it's own leather sleeve... Try to get past the glue residue on the door... It looks gross, I know...

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Hi Steve,
Nice work ! I'm on the south shore of Montreal, restoring a 70S coupe with some mods ; I'm about at the same level as you, I hope we can have a drive together next summer ! I will stay posted !
Lâche pas !
JD

Thanks JD.

I'm going to try to complete this car by next summer and if so, we'll definitely have to hit the streets.

Steve

Count me in for the get together... I too am from the shore

More interior pics...
 

I've managed to strip all of the panels in the car. I traced and fabricated most, since the originals were falling apart. Covered everything in leather. I chose to go without layering the panels in the original sub-carpet material for padding. The look I think is better, much lighter and streamlined. Here's a pic of the combo of leather, carpet, and straps that will be used in the car. Even though it's finished I've got sooo much to do before I even think about installing it. Seats will be solid leather Nurburgring. Possibly perforated.

Enjoy.

Steve

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Just a quick update...

I removed the fuel tank with the help of Patrick, a fellow Pelican, along with the fuel hoses and accessories a week ago. It's in pretty good condition as is, but I took it to a local shop to acid dip, clean, and seal the inside. In the meantime, I've been working on removing the fuel tank support/pan for replacement and am cleaning up the area wire-brush-style...

I've been contemplating welding the fuel access lid shut and relocating the intake on the tank itself. I don't want to go through the trunk lid with a center cap, but perhaps shorten the filler neck so it stands upright. That way, it's hidden... Any thoughts? Anyone attempt this? It simplifies the look and ignores all of the smaller replacement parts to rebuild the original state... which I don't feel like spending money on... ;)

-Steve

Do not seal the inside of your gas tank. There are some really nasty additives in today's gasoline. They eat those coatings and clog your fuel system I know this form personal experience. The additives are not going away. We might be facing E15 soon.

No matter what the people who make the linings tell you don't do it. They have no idea what's coming in the next few years. The refining companies don't even know.

Richard Newton
Vintage Motorsprot Magazine

I have a center fill under hood filler. Mine is not so nice since there is nothing but my head to hold the lid, but on the plus side, the lid is light fiberglass. :)

I like to say it is equally inconvenient filling on either side of the car.

I would say it is a good mod, though. Less complex and cleans up the fender line.

Steve, best of luck with your project! It took me a couple of years of 'hanging out' and soaking in different looks, details and lingo for the early cars before I jumped in to the fray with my race inspired/rod project. I am well under way now!

Keep the pix coming and update us on your progress! I will be interested to see what you plan for the overall 'look' and what performance upgrades you make.

Thanks, Flieger, Combatic. I'll definitely be uploading photos of the progress.

Richard, thanks for the heads-up about the fuel tank inner sealant. Currently, the garage is cleaning it with an acid and is repairing/welding any leaks he finds. Once that's done, I was planning on working on the cosmetics, i.e. relocating filler neck, wire-brushing smooth, priming/painting satin black, etc...

Is there any protection necessary to put inside a tank prior to use? Would cleaning it, as he is, be enough?

Thanks again,

Steve

I would simply clean it and leave the inside alone. What's interesting is that with today's gasoline the fuel cell people can't tell you how long the foam will last. That's how bad it's getting. At least we know it won't eat metal. At least not yet.

Richard Newton
Project 911

Updates? Photos?

Hey there-

It's been a while...

I'm back in the garage working on the car again. I picked up a MIG and will be putting my skills to the test with a few patch ups.

Hopefully, I'll have pictures within a couple weeks.

Stay tuned...