A 1967 R Interpretation Project

[la2mtl]

I purchased this car about five years ago and have been planning this build ever since. I'm sure some of you can relate, but I actually dream about this project... regularly. I make lists. I study previous Pelicanites' builds. I browse eb*y weekly looking for a steal... I put together folders of different photos of specific areas that I admire and want for my project...

I am addicted to this project and I have barely begun.

I hope you are patient because I can't guarantee how long this will take. 1 year. Maybe 2... I will tell you that I get these 'bursts' of motivation where I can multitask and make strides.

I've already taken the car down to bare metal with an os and sprayed with a rust inhibitor. I've sanded the first three coats of primer up to 400 (long way to go... I know).

The interior has been stripped and the drivers and passengers floor boards where replaced. I found some rust on the rear parcel shelf and seat corners along with the gas tank/suspension pan.

I've purchased replacements for the above. I am currently working on the dash.

As for the final look... Charcoal Grey. Perhaps a 3.0, 3.2... Aggressively low, tight suspension. No logos. Vintage racing interior seats/harness (Nurburgring). Accents of rustic oiled brown leather, i.e. door pulls, door stops, etc...

I really could go on... I want the car to respect the potential it has.

I will post as many photos as I can. And please - any advice will help!

Thanks, enjoy.

Steve

[la2mtl]

[la2mtl]

[Rich Lambert]

Cool! Looking forward to seeing this one progress.

[la2mtl]

Here are a few questions that I already have:

-Do I need to remove the engine in order to safely cut out/weld in rear shelf? My main concern is blowing up... Will covering the engine suffice?

-I am a bit intimidated by removing a gas tank. Is there a protocol? Should this be done outside? Fumes?

-Lastly, is removing the entire wiring system necessary? It looks and feels grimy and old. It works fine and I don't want to go over my head. It looks like a labyrinth...

These are my only concerns thus far...

Thanks!

Steve

[la2mtl]

Thanks, Rich. It's a labor of love!

[Jeroen]

keep keeping at it!

[Mia911]

Looking good Steve...

[mcaterino]

Steve,

That looks like a big project, but it will be a great car when done. I can well remember the early restoration obsession and excitement.

It's not obvious what your overall plan is. You mention putting a new engine in ('3.0 or 3.2'), so I don't know why you wouldn't just remove what's in there now. Are you hoping to paint the car, drive it for a while, and then replace the engine further down the line? Is it running at present? In any case getting it out would enable you to more completely inspect and fix whatever rust issues there are in the rear, torsion tube area, seat pans, etc..

Pulling the gas tank isn't difficult (if it's mostly empty, which it should be if you're doing welding near it), and it will be mandatory for replacing the front suspension pan. I guess your tank's drain plug would be at the rear bottom near the fuel line hoses. The threaded plug may not come out easily, and you may be best off cutting one of the hoses and draining that way (you'd want to replace most of the old fuel hoses anyway.) Then disconnect the filler hose, vent hose, level sender wiring, and three clamps around the edges, then it just lifts out. Plug, cover all the holes to keep the fumes down in your workspace. You may want to get it professionally cleaned and coated to keep it from rusting. Look into treatment options for different year's tanks.

What are the suspension plans? Have you inspected all the old bushings? It's probably wise to plan to replace and rebuild most of that now, especially if you're aiming at a high performance build.

Wiring removal? Usually not necessary. Just make sure to mark them and take lots and lots of pictures before disconnecting everything. (A good photographic record is a huge asset in putting a car back together. It looks to me like you need to invest in a better camera.) Do you have the original wiring diagram for your car? They're available and indispensable.

Keep posting your progress, and the Pelican world will follow along eagerly.

Good luck,
Mike

[la2mtl]

Thanks, Mike.

This is exactly why I'm posting my build - to receive helpful advice and support!

I plan on tackling the gas tank within the next few days. There is a shop that will fix it up and seal it. There is gas in it at the moment, so draining it will be necessary.

I'm taking pictures using my iPh*ne and want to save my money for the car... I'll just add better lighting!

Today I'm cutting new sheet metal to fill in the spots I've cut out. Stay tuned...

[al lkosmal]

Steve,
I know the excitement of starting the resto.......as well as the feeling of being overwhelmed. which occurs at several stages along the way. I would usually try to have one mechanical/electrical task, as well as a purely aesthetic task to work on. When the mechanical side of the project was not going well, and my brain just could not work it out, I would shift over to the aesthetic side and the "shiny" progress there would get my head back into the game. Also +1 on taking many....many pix and label all the wiring. Since completing my 71E resto, I have been helping a friend on his 77S IROC clone project. One of the most time consuming aspects has come about, due to the lack of labeling of the wiring. I have spent many hours, with the multi-meter, performing a complete continuity check and marking off the wiring diagram as circuits are proofed, prior to hooking them up. You'll save yourself many hours...later, if you take the time, up front.

Great project.

regards,
al

[MichiganMike]

Looks great Steve! Keep at it. It looks really close to where our project is currently at. We had to do the same thing for the front pan, as well as other parts. If you need help or advice, keep on posting and we'll chime in when we can!

my build: Help me style this beat-up old 912

[la2mtl]

Thanks guys.

I am filling in the ash tray and radio permanently. Cut out replacement pieces from sheet metal.

I am going to stick to the interior for the weekend. I want to clean up the dash; completely simplify it. Once the pieces are welded in place and smoothed out, I'll prime and paint the entire dash in stain black. I am contemplating sending my gauges to a professional to redo unless I can pry them open somehow. I took the RPM gauge out to clean up and I can't seem to open it up... I polished the metal trim a bit and it cleans up rather simply. It's the faded numbering and slight fog on the inside of the glass that I want to address.

I'm also looking for new pull knobs and rings for the dash once it's finished.

The steering wheel in an RS model currently. I would like to add the vintage puck at some point.

-Steve

[ppanagis@gmail.]

Steve ...i love what your doing here... Saw the car and its truly a beauty....

[giovanni86]

keep the original engine (unless it is a 912) ...upgrade it with bigger carbs and a loud exaust

[ppanagis@gmail.]

Osoyoos larose

[la2mtl]

Thanks, Patrick.

Giovanni86 - The shell is in fact a 912 and I am pulling the engine this week (not orig). Once the engine bay is cleared up I shouldn't have any problem with the rear shelf replacement.

I still want everything done right, even if some of these places may never be seen again.

I'm in no rush so I can take my time with every detail... Plus, I find this forum keeps you honest.

-Steve

[la2mtl]

Received a box full-o-leather today. I plan on recovering the dash, under dash, and custom door skins. This vintage grain is exactly what I wanted for the interior.

A bit premature, but like most of the project, I'll be working on all sorts of things at the same time... Mmm, the smell of leather!

-Steve

[la2mtl]

Here's a sketch of the door pulls I'm planning on fabricating. They will have a brown leather sleeve on top against the black leather door panels. It simplifies the panel and will compliment the early racer look I'm going for.

[Grady Clay]

Steve,

One of the hallmarks of the 911R (and interpretations) is lightweight.

One of the ‘facts-of-life’ of our old 911s is rust.
Another is progressively improved technology.

Your next ‘order-of-business’ could be to remove absolutely everything from the chassis, including old undercoat.
Build a dolly for the chassis (wood 4x4s and six casters will do).
Plan on building a rotisserie.
Source Celeste jig access.

Not only do you want to have an absolutely bare chassis and repair the existing rust but there are serious chassis strengthening to be done.
You don’t want to build a nice 911R interpretation, only to have the rear torsion tube fail.

There are quite a number of these 911s; both finished and in process.
Continue using these as a ‘guide’. Please post links.
We can help rank ideas as ‘critical’ to ‘would be nice’.

For example, if you plan to use any fuel injection engine, the chassis does not have the necessary return fuel pipe.
“Aggressively low” involves repositioning and clearancing many things; outboard CV joint-to-chassis for example.
Using the LWB front suspension allows for lowering by repositioning the spindle and you get the benefit of later geometry.
You can even convert to LWB and have it not obvious.
Installing your new ‘front pan’ can be done with the suspension mounts farther ‘up’ in the chassis.
Even the rear can be ‘raised’ in the chassis to the point you must raise the rear of the engine to prevent dragging.
There is a LOT more.
(Someone here is rehabbing Alan Fritze’s ’66 chassis that has many of these mods.)

The big issue is lightweight.
A sub-2000# 911 (sub-1900#?) allows for smaller everything (engine, trans, brakes, etc.) and have outstanding performance.
As soon as you discuss a 3.0/3.2 and other, you start discussing 915 transmissions, big brakes, wide tires & wheels and more weight.
A well built 2.5/2.8 can still use the 901/911 transmission and have outrageous street performance.


So … please post your ideas and links to others’ projects and evaluate the advice.
You will find most has been successfully done or tried and abandoned.
You want to learn from others’ success and avoid prior mistakes.


Some thoughts:

Don’t try and ‘pry open’ the instruments. Send them to a ‘pro’ with the special tools.
You still have the 912 (or non-S) instruments. Get the pieces to complete ‘S’ instruments.
Aside from service and reconditioning, adding a ‘low oil pressure warning light’ and re-calibrate the speedo for 150 mph (assuming you have an 8000 rpm 6-cylinder tach) are the only mods I would recommend.
The green/white instruments are great when new looking.

You will want to convert to the dual master cylinder from ’68 and later.

For a lightweight interior, you can sew black Nomex to replicate (sorta) the original panels and add your leather touches. This is very lightweight.

Consider improving the seat and seat belt mountings, including shoulder harness.

You have a very nice steering wheel. The ’68 and earlier horn ‘butterfly’ will fit nicely.

A good source for original steel pieces is from a salvage chassis.

Be gentle with your wiring harness. It will survive nicely unless you stress it out of position too much.
You will want to add fuses to several of the unfused circuits and relays for the headlights.
Inspect the condition of the connections at the ignition switch, headlight switch and the gray connectors under the dash (above your left knee).

Virtually every little system in the car can benefit from service, repair or update.

Best,
Grady