These two pieces are suppose to come apart, right? (Clutch shaft...)

[Hotwatermusic]

Cause mine aren't. There's no pin holding them together. My theories are: an exceptional amount of rust binding the two (though it is highly unlikely), PO put some sort of adhesive--or loctite of some sort--on them, or Porsche decided for some brief period of time that these two pieces should be binded together and I have the handful of ones that are like that.

I banged the hell out of the shaft with a rubber mallet to free itself of the helper arm but it's done absolutely nothing. I've sprayed PB blaster where they meet cause there's the slightest gap at the top that I thought it could get down into. Then I malleted again, to no avail. Any one know what I'm dealing with here?

[schumicat]

I'd use something stronger than a rubber mallet. like a mini sledgehammer. maybe put the arm in a vise.

[Flieger]

Put the flat part of the arm where it meets the shaft on the partially opened jaws of a vice- just open enough to fit the shaft through the jaws without touching them. Then hit the shaft with a BFH.

[pete3799]

Heat is your friend.

[Hendog]

Heat the iron with a torch and immerse the steel shaft in ice cold water then try to separate them.

[Hotwatermusic]

I don't have a torch, but the rest of the ideas I can try. Any ideas though what exactly is keeping these two together? I'm seriously wondering now...

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Hotwatermusic

I don't have a torch, but the rest of the ideas I can try. Any ideas though what exactly is keeping these two together? I'm seriously wondering now...

Bring it to a muffler shop and have it heated. A hydraulic press would be very helpful for sliding the shaft out from the arm.

Tony

[dtw]

They're just rusted together, no biggie. Try pressing them apart in a vice if you don't have access to a hydraulic press. If you can't come up with a good angle for that, then just clamp up the shaft in a vice. Wrap it up in a couple shop towels to protect the shaft surface. Then beat the fk out of the arm with a dead blow hammer. I assume the roll pin is out?

So you never updated the other thread - what did it take to get the powertrain split?

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Hotwatermusic

I don't have a torch, but the rest of the ideas I can try. Any ideas though what exactly is keeping these two together? I'm seriously wondering now...

Rust, mine did the same thing, my wrench had to sledge it off

Ergo the important of placing HI-Temp Lube there. It should be spinning freely.

+1, how did you split the trans from engine, Dying to know???

[Hotwatermusic]

Originally Posted by dtw

They're just rusted together, no biggie. Try pressing them apart in a vice if you don't have access to a hydraulic press. If you can't come up with a good angle for that, then just clamp up the shaft in a vice. Wrap it up in a couple shop towels to protect the shaft surface. Then beat the fk out of the arm with a dead blow hammer. I assume the roll pin is out?

So you never updated the other thread - what did it take to get the powertrain split?

Yeah, the roll pin is out. Man, I just can't believe it's only rust holding these two together. I've PB blasted and given the end a pretty good beating, with nothing doing. That's epic rust inside there if so.

I know I didn't update the other thread, but as soon as I got them apart another issue popped up and I had to ask the group about that one...it seems every bolt I turn leads to another issue. Anyway, the reason the engine and trans wouldn't separate is being held in my hand in the pictures of this thread. Because the helper arm and shaft are stuck together, the shaft wasn't really free to turn and let the shift fork move off the TOB when I was pulling. I took a big screwdriver and pushed the helper arm forward, which moved the shaft and fork, and trans came off in about 10 seconds after that. I should update that other thread just in case any one else out there comes along and has my exact level of bad luck and idiocy.

[DRACO A5OG]

Yeah, what I suspected. On my 3.2 one must remove the helper arm to allow the split.

I was also amazed when wrench showed mine was frozen on by rust. I freaked when he started to hammer at the arm to force it's release.

Once off the rust was apparent, It did not seem alot but it sure made it stick. I regularly service it now especially after heavy rains or when I use GUNK to clean my engine. I try to avoid that area is I can't help it.

I will be dropping my engine/trans to service my TO bearing and Guide tube. I have a bit of GRITTINESS there. Oh the joy!

[DRACO A5OG]

I know this sounds ridiculous but maybe soaking (drown) it in vinger will soften the rust???

Please wait for someone with more experience chime in. Damn if I were local I would come over with my newly received Kroil to let youtry it.

Sorry just trying to think outside the box???

Whatever you do, do not sledge on the shaft end it will deform. Get a piece of 1/4-3/8" X 8-10" thick steal scrap ( home depot ) and use a sledge, take care not to mar the shaft, place piece of plastic to protect it in case the steal slips

[dtw]

Originally Posted by Hotwatermusic

Yeah, the roll pin is out. Man, I just can't believe it's only rust holding these two together. I've PB blasted and given the end a pretty good beating, with nothing doing. That's epic rust inside there if so.

I know I didn't update the other thread, but as soon as I got them apart another issue popped up and I had to ask the group about that one...it seems every bolt I turn leads to another issue. Anyway, the reason the engine and trans wouldn't separate is being held in my hand in the pictures of this thread. Because the helper arm and shaft are stuck together, the shaft wasn't really free to turn and let the shift fork move off the TOB when I was pulling. I took a big screwdriver and pushed the helper arm forward, which moved the shaft and fork, and trans came off in about 10 seconds after that. I should update that other thread just in case any one else out there comes along and has my exact level of bad luck and idiocy.

Yep, the shaft being kept from rotating freely was really the only explanation. Glad you got through that. Don't sweat all this stuff - the first time you do all this crap, it seems like you can't win for trying. Beating the living !#$% out of your 911 with a hammer can be a difficult discipline to learn.

BTW, that rubber mallet might as well be a feather - go for a dead blow or engineer's hammer. A carpentry/claw type hammer would probably work if that's all you have around.

[pete3799]

Go down to the hardware store and get a small propane torch.

[FPB111]

use a gear puller

[Flat6pac]

If the pin is out completely, use an air chisel point to drive the rod off the arm.
Bruce

[Hotwatermusic]

So I need a torch, I know. But my gas stove was right there, so I figured why the hell not. So I cooked it up for 2 minutes with the helper arm resting on the grate, heat on "Hi". Took it back out to the garage and give it 4 lashes with the rubber mallet and it was free. And for being virtually fused with rust, it cleaned up surprising well.

Thanks for the help guys. Just wait til I start the actual clutch replacement, I'm gonna be hogging all the bandwidth searching every stupid problem I'm gonna have!

[DRACO A5OG]

Sweet!

Now all will be down hill from now on. just try to remember all the advice, You should now be able to adjust the cable correctly. Remember Hi-Temp Lube!!! Did you get the dust rings??? These will help keep the water out, just lube them so they can seal better.

Jim

[Hotwatermusic]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Sweet!

Now all will be down hill from now on. just try to remember all the advice, You should now be able to adjust the cable correctly. Remember Hi-Temp Lube!!! Did you get the dust rings??? These will help keep the water out, just lube them so they can seal better.

Jim

Any recommendations on what hi-temp grease I should use?

[howard freeman]

I use Lubro Moly 508 or LM 48 on all of them. Clean the shaft & helper arm with 800-1000 grit , lube it up. the helper arm must be free @ all times.
Howard
P.S. Clean & lube the bushings in the bell housing too.