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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 2
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Inherit a 1979 911 SC or Inherit Problems?
Could use some advice on a 911 SC Targa that I will take ownership of soon. A little background would be helpful........I'm a very capable weekend mechanic and have only had to rely on a mechanic a handful of times. I haven't rebuilt a motor or touched a transmission but everything in between, timing belts, alternators, starters, all fluid changes and the routine maintenance.
With that said, will I be inheriting a problem car that has sadly been neglected.... . Been in storage outside with a car cover for the last 5 years with the gas tank full Driven once about 2 years ago, it surprisingly started up Has 12k mile on a rebuilt motor with all the cam chain upgrades etc 148k chassis Interior is a 9 out of 10, exterior is a 6, white paint has minimal rust on door edges only, pan looks good, newer targa top Tires are half flat, no oil leaks, very rusted rotors In this condition what are some potential problems taking on this car and restoring it? What steps should I take before cranking it over besides changing all the fluids? Would love to have another very capable track car parked next to my S2000. |
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What car do you have parked next to your S2000 now? Just kidding, welcome to the forum.
Pictures would help, take one of the engine bay. I think that if you change out the oil and the fuel, change the filters you can go from there. If it starts and runs you can make further diagnostics. Some potential problems are that fuel has hardened in your fuel distributor and your injectors could be clogged. Electrical connections could be goobered up, the number one thing to check is your grounds to make sure they are getting a good clean connection. The main grounds are the source of many electrical problems. As for the paint -- if it is sticking and not peeling anywhere then you can just scuff it up and shoot some single stage GP white right over it.
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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Maybe, depends on what you're willing to put into it. It's a lot more inexpensive to go buy an SC that is ready to go and drive it around and enjoy it.
However, if you're getting the car for FREE, then it would be probably cheaper to fix up than what you'd put into another SC to get it "right" mechanically. The paint and rust issues of course, well, that comes with how much money you're willing to put into body and paint. The 3.0 engines are really fantastic and from what I've seen from other SC owners is that they'll run forever if you take care of them and keep up on the maintenance. Although a rebuilt motor at 148k is a bit odd to me since I hear a lot of times these engines go often times to 200k+ without a rebuild, but if it's rebuilt and if the rebuild was proper, could be good. If it runs soundly, doesn't consume a lot of oil after the rebuild and feels good, you're probably fine engine wise. What I would do on a car that has been sitting, however, would be inspect and replace soft lines (Fuel/brake/oil/vacuum) since it's inexpensive insurance compared to something failing from sitting and going brittle. Before cranking it over you might try turning the motor by hand, but spray a couple squirts of penetrating oil in the cylinders and give it 24 hours, then see if it turns by hand. I always try and turn it over by hand before cranking just to be safe on things like rings, etc. And of course fluids for sure. I'm sure some more experienced people can chime in and offer better advice since I'm still somewhat new to the 911s ![]()
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1970 Porsche 914 1.7L, 1982 Porsche 911 SC Targa, 1977 Porsche 924, 1979 Porsche 924, 1999 Ducati 900SS |
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dont go running it without draining the tank first.
before you ask, there are a billion threads on how to drain a gas tank. it sounds like a great candidate for some lovin..
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poof! gone |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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If you can change a timing belt you handle the fixing up of an SC with this forum at your service.
There will be some issues but the list would be exhaustive. Change the fluids and filters and see how she runs. Siphon the tank first then drain. It holds 21 gallons when full. Here's something to help explain the bond that will develop: Minnie Ripperton - Lovin' You (Lyrics) - YouTube |
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5String
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal, USA
Posts: 1,225
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I bought my car last year at about this time. It also had been sitting for 10 years, and it also had 148,000 miles on it.
My to-do list, the things I had to do to get the car on the road and (reasonably) reliable, included the following: Replace all flexible brake lines - I used braided stainless lines. The rubber ones decompose from the inside and act as check valves. If you find that you've got a brake sticking on, that's probably why. Drain fuel tank. Drain and replace oil in trans and engine. Change air, oil and fuel filters. Adjust valves, check for broken studs. Check electrical connections. Replace tires. Four-wheel alignment. Make sure all lights work, including those on the dash. Make sure speedo works properly, including odometer. If not, have that fixed. It's inexpensive and quick at places like N. Hollywood Speedometer, and the odometer gear being broken is a common problem. Not bad, really. Accomplished quickly and inexpensively. Of course, shortly thereafter the engine in my car required a very comprehensive top-end rebuild and that's where things got expensive. Since your car has had that, it sounds like you may be ahead of the game. So my advice would be to get it running well and drive it. These are fabulous cars, and I suspect that once you get the car in a condition that allows you to enjoy it, you won't want to part with it.
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5String Tell not a soul that you have seen me; breathe not a word of what I say.... The Northwest Files |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,325
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All good advice above.
I would not worry about the rust on the rotors as the first stop will clean that up. You should check thickness to be sure they are still in tolerance. For any car brake fluid life is about 2 years so a flush and refill with fresh fluid and as stated check all brake lines and connectors also check master cylinder for leaks due to dried out seals. Make sure all calipers are free and working. They can stick or leak after long disuse. Remember it has to stop as well as go. |
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Lot's of good advice already. I'll add that the reputation of the shop that did the rebuild can make the difference between a very good and very bad experience. Find out who did the work and what they did (exactly) and report back.
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 2
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Good stuff! thanks for all the great feedback and warm welcomes! Nice to have a community you can rely on, makes restoring this fine car so much easier. My first to do list, get the car towed, take some pictures, get all the history of the car (used the best mechanic in San Diego) and post back in a few months.
Many thanks! |
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AutoBahned
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browse thru here to see what usually needs to be done anyway:
Long term & Commonly Neglected Maintenance |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: I live on the road, I just stay here sometimes...
Posts: 7,104
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If it has been outside that long you might want to inspect the front and rear windows for leaks around the lower corners.
This can lead to hidden rust inside.
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73 RSR replica (soon for sale) SOLD - 928 5 speed with phone dials and Pasha seats SOLD - 914 wide body hot rod My 73RSR build http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/893954-saving-73-crusher-again.html |
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