I didn't have to use heat. They weren't much of a problem to come off. I had been PB Blasting them every day prior to removal. Then before I removed, I tightened the nuts first to break the rust. I forgot to do that on this one barrel nut and it broke the stud...so it was my fault. I probably could have done it with no broken studs if I hadn't done that.

I guess I'll try the stud puller first and if it breaks then I'll drill.

Has anyone tried this stuff? Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release
A mechanic on another site posted that he has great success with this stuff at times.

My stud puller should be delivered today. Any tips for removal? I've been spraying PB Blaster on it. Should I use heat prior to removal?

Also, how do I clean up the other studs? Should I run the tap and die on them?

Well snug on the stud (mid point, not flush with the head) and start at 20 Lb and increase in step of 5 Lb.

I did about 20 seconds at each steps. They came out at about 50.

So the stud remover started to work, but then it ended up snapping the stud clean off. So now I have to drill (as JW said from the start). My question is, in order to avoid buying the drill jig, could I possibly cut off one of the flanges from my old HE,s and use that as a jig? I have an 83 which has the sleeves, so they would keep the "jig centered. What do you think?

just saw these, might be just the trick for the nut removal....

http://www.ultimategarage.com/Tools/j4757-lge.jpg

Matt

That is too bad but at least, just like mine, its snap clean off.

I would think that you would need a sleeve bushing as the hole for the stud is bigger then the drill size for drilling the stud.

I did drill mind free hand but I end up having to put a Time-Cert in.

While the jig is expensive, you can always sell it with little lost.