Tool for Removing Heat Exchanger Nuts
 

I got the left side heat exchanger off, but I'm having a bit of trouble with the right one.

All three barrel nuts are removed and I'm left with the three nuts. I have a bunch of wrenches/sockets, but nothing seems to give me the right access to try and turn the nuts. The engine case seems to get in the way.

What do you guys use? Also, the engine is removed and on a stand.

I have a set of 'distributor' wrenches. They worked. also craftsman swivel sockets. If you put a swivel on a socket its too long so you need the integrated kind. Also crowsfoot sockets and stubby box wrenches.

Make sure you know which nuts came off what studs. Mine were of two different sizes. IE for some I needed a 13 and for some a 12. Its a PITA, but you just need to find that special tool combo for each one.

Oh, a sidewinder socket wrench helps to. That's the socket where you have a T handle and just turn the T and the socket spins. Its very useful other places as well like CV bolts and starter nuts.

-Michael

snap-on 3/8 drive, 13mm chrome wobbly socket and long extension. and oxy/acet heat on the nut first.

yup, I'm with John Walker, of course....I have some universal short sockets, snap on, in 12mm and 13mm, these will do it.....when you buy SSI's you get a 12mm bent closed end wrench.

All the above, although I never had much problem with a long offset boxed 13mm wrench.

+1 on the "offset boxed 13mm wrench".

Mine came from some tool kit from my 1st car back in the 80's. A Lada, the Russian version of the Fiat 124 :D:D:D Glad I keep the tool pouch :)

BTW some of those copper nut comes in a 12mm version.

+1 That's what I used.

Same +1 on the 6pt swivel socket. Like the term "wobbly socket", gotta remember that one. I got a 3/8" drive x 10 and 13 mm one from Sears and find I use them quite frequently. Nice purchase. I saw mention that a 1/4" drive version was nice but didn't find I needed that myself.

The actual term is "wobble socket", in case anyone plans to do an internet search :)

great tools to have
 

i have found these socket adapters real handy and perfect for removing heat exchanger nuts just use an open end wrench and a short socket and better with a ratcheting wrench. is as handy as a regular socket wrench in tight spots harbor has them for about $10

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1317306016.jpg

I'm going to give my offset box wrench another try tonight.

I got them all off. The offset box wrench took off 2. And the dremel took off the last. So I have 1 broken one. I guess not bad out of 12. So do I need the $40 stud remover or are there.other ways.

Matt

Post a picture of the broken stud as well as what cylinder. Depending where it is you might need different approach. I had one on #6 outside that the stud puller could not be fitted. To my surprise ( was going to try anything at that point), got the sucker out with a bolt out.

Cylinder No. 2 on the inside stud.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1317513441.jpg

did you use heat, or just crank the nuts off? heat works on the nuts, but not so much on the studs. cut it flush, drill dead center with a pilot drill and finish with 17/64. if you were centered, there's just the threads remaining and they can be pulled out like a spring. that's the beauty of christian's tool. if you're off-center, finish the job with a timesert kit.

Good location, plenty of room to work with.

Start spraying PB Blaster but if the engine is still in it will not be going down the stud.

You need a straight stud puller and an air gun.

You start at 25 LB for about 20 seconds, and increase by 5 pound at the time. Mine got out at 50 Lbs.

The straight stud puller Top Right on pics

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298079901.jpg

As soon as I can find the picks of the set up; Air gun/Puller/Stud I'll update.

OK found the pics

This is a straight in line stud extractor. They seem hard to find, the place I got mine from does not carry them anymore and no result from Google!!!

Found it... http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Stud-Puller-Drive-Model/dp/B00265M8N4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317529228&sr=8-1 (I pick up mine on sale at $10 at the Canadian version of HF Tool)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311697994.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311698020.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311698031.jpg

[QUOTE=JJ 911SC;6286397]OK found the pics

This is a straight in line stud extractor. They seem hard to find, the place I got mine from does not carry them anymore and no result from Google!!!

alright i'll bite, how well did it work?
when i looked at the website it looks like a step drill..is it similar to a stud extractor, meaning it must be pre-drilled and centered to get it out..any chance of it snapping off?
.thanks ,ben

[QUOTE=56 nomad;6286627] ??? Link has been change.

I have update to a different link.

I got 7 of the 12 the studs using it.

Amazon.com: Titan Stud Puller - 3/8in. Drive, Model# 16023: Home Improvement

irrelevant on seized nuts but
I use Snap-On 1/4" 6 point wobble sockets. I can't confirm but I believe they're shorter than other brands.

then nickle anti-seize on studs with new gaskets.. then recheck after a few run-cold cycles. Torque specs for the nuts are less than 20#