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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Berkeley Springs, WV
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I don't think Seafoam will work as a stabilizer and for the cost of a can or two of Stabil or similar (the stuff that Yamaha motorcycle dealers sell is supposedly rather good, that's what I'm trying this winter) I'd just buy the correct type fluid.

I'm not too sure if a car cover is that good an idea, but I assume you're talking about an indoor fabric to keep the dust off? I'd be a little concerned with air movement moving the cover and scratching the paint as a result, especially if the fabric gets stiff due to the temperature.

I'd also consider taking out the battery and putting it somewhere a little warmer. Definitely get a trickle charger, too.

Old 09-30-2011, 12:23 PM
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Seafoam is completely different than Stabil. Stabil stops your gas from getting varnish deposits, Seafoam helps to clean out crap in your engine and fuel system. Stabil is a few bucks and readily available at any Canadian Tire - it's not like it's expensive or hard to find. The right tool for the job, and all that sort of thing...
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:11 PM
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I'm in Winnipeg, similar conditions. Last year it was stored in an un-insulated garage. Plenty of mice about. As well as stabil, mouse traps, bounce sheets and steel wool in the exhaust, I also covered the air intake with mosquito netting and zip ties. The only other thing I did was park on some 2" thick, 2 foot square expanded foam. No flat spots, although as others have said it's likely not an issue if you just blow them up. You should remove the battery and pit it in the house unless you have a battery tender. Just a few weeks to go now.
Old 09-30-2011, 05:37 PM
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What i will do different this year is spray some kind a oil dwn the engine so as to fog the cylinders...(while running)
Then once in awhile turn the engine over by hand (once a month ?)so as to lubricate cylinder walls and change who has their valves open...
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:27 PM
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You can get Stabil and ctek battery tenders at Canadian Tire. Using a trickle charger is NOT the same thing. Even though it charges at a slow rate, if left on for an extended period of time it will over charge the battery. And even though it is often a real pain, it likely is a good idea to remove the battery from time to time to check the metal underneath for corrosion.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haggis780 View Post
Sounds like a lot of hassle - why don't you just fit some winter tires on cheap cookie cutter rims and keep driving it............on second thoughts your roads are bad enough in the summer without winter conditions to boot, however your summer bugs are probably harder on paint then a little gravel on the road

My California import is going to get a winter experience this year........we'll see how she goes in an Edmonton winter. Just picked up some winter rims and tires.
What did you get for tires? Are you planning on driving it even on the really cold days or just the moderate -20C days?
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1987 ROW coupe, Marine blue, with a couple extra goodies.

The cars we love the best are the ones with human traits, warts and all.
Old 09-30-2011, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syzygy View Post
What did you get for tires? Are you planning on driving it even on the really cold days or just the moderate -20C days?
Ended up getting a set of used Michelin winter tires mounted on cookie cutter 7's rims. Will be just the ticket I think. I am going to use the car during the 'warmer' days - yeah up till minus 15/20.............and will probably be the nicer days with blue sky but cold enough so no slush . The winter tires will be mainly for making it up my acreage driveway more than anything else.

Having a few second thoughts................had trouble driving it tonight with a few raindrops coming down! I just hate the thought of parking it for 5 months.
Old 10-01-2011, 09:01 PM
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I also store mine in an unheated shed along with my motorcycle and other summer toys. To keep the mice at bay I make up four small sacks using cheese cloth and fill with few moth balls, the sacks are hung in the four corners of the shed.
I change the engine oil shortly before putting the car away (gets all the contaminants out of the engine) and add stabilizer to a full tank of fuel. Pump the tires to max pressure and park the car on 1/4 inch cheap plywood. Remove the battery and place on the shelf in the basement or connect a tender, cover the car and you are good to go.
Old 10-02-2011, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afterburn 549 View Post
What i will do different this year is spray some kind a oil dwn the engine so as to fog the cylinders...(while running)
Then once in awhile turn the engine over by hand (once a month ?)so as to lubricate cylinder walls and change who has their valves open...
I partly understand this, but isn't oiling the cylinder walls something more essential for a cast-iron block engine? Am I missing something?
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerome74911S View Post
I partly understand this, but isn't oiling the cylinder walls something more essential for a cast-iron block engine? Am I missing something?
Just me...a good dose of oil will not hurt it
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afterburn 549 View Post
What i will do different this year is spray some kind a oil dwn the engine so as to fog the cylinders...(while running)
Then once in awhile turn the engine over by hand (once a month ?)so as to lubricate cylinder walls and change who has their valves open...
So do you use specific fogging oil for this?

Is fogging oil supposed to be sprayed into the air intake with the air filter removed?
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:24 PM
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I have not made up my mind what to use....But yes while running I am going to give it a dose of something

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Old 11-06-2011, 05:34 PM
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