Static Timing

[Superman]

Is there a way I can determine static timing? That is, turn the engine real slow and see when the spark happens. I'm just putting this engine back together as most of you know, and so I don't know how far off my timing might be.

IT has been my experience that engines cannot have much or perhaps any advance. If the spark happens much before TDC, the engine tries to run backards. I guess I'll consult my manuals but they sometimes don't go over this and I thought someone would know.

[john walker's workshop]

on reassembly, there's usually a mark left on the distributor base from the holddown nut and washer. match that up, as well as point the rotor at the factory notch on the distributor body (make sure #1 cylinder is at firing position first), and chances are really good it will fire up and be close to the proper timing.

[Graham Archer]

If you can't find the old position like John suggests, then with the engine at TDC for cylinder #1, make sure the distributor rotor is just before the tick mark on the distributor. That should be good enough let it run enough to time it with a light.

[911pcars]

Two ways to set ignition timing without a timing light:

1. Manually rotate crank pulley (in normal rotation direction) so the static timing marks line up (pulley and case mark).
2. Verify rotor points to no. 1 spark plug wire, then reinstall dist. cap.
3. Loosen holddown on distributor to allow housing to be rotated (but not real loose)
4. Remove No. 1 plug wire from spark plug; position end close to ground.
5. Ignition ON
6. Rotate dist. in direction of rotor rotation slightly, then rotate in opposite direction until a spark jumps to ground from the plug wire.
7. Stop and lock down the dist. housing.

To verify timing:
1. Set up plug wire as in step 4 above.
2. Ignition ON
3. Slowly rotate engine in normal direction. When spark jumps to ground, note the alignment of timing marks.That is the static timing setting. You can manually rotate the crank with a long wrench or shift into the final drive gear and push the car forward (parking brake OFF).

The above procedures are useful in those cases where the normal idle engine rpm causes the mechanical weights in the distributor to falsely affect the static timing. I suppose that's why the factory suggests verifying the total advance at 6000 rpm.

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars
www.seinesystems.com