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1974 911 w/ 83 SC engine
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 602
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Is it a real pain to change out trailing arm bushings? ('74 911)
I have a 1974 911 with the engine out (cause I am too scared to put it back in), and because I keep looking for crap to do to prolong the inevitable, I have come to trailing arm bushings. After some searching, it seems as though changing out the rear trailing arm bushings (right by the torsion bar tube) is a major PIA. Is this the consensus, or did I just read threads from guys who were having unusual issues with them? I can't even tell if the old ones are bad or not, but I do have access to them since the engine is out and figured I would try to tackle it if it's not a massive undertaking. Thanks!
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RETIRED
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Yes....there are a few DIY tools you can use. Do a search.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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French Import
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Can you post pictures? If they are the original bushings I think you already know the answer as far as them being bad.
![]() I am about to embark on that journey myself on the 86 cab, along with the rest of the suspension pieces and brakes, so I can't answer on the difficulty of the task yet.
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Gilles & Kathy Happiness is not having a Porsche in the garage... Happiness is having a Porsche on the road! ![]() 86 Porsche 911 Cabriolet, 2011 BMW 1200RT, 03 Saab 93 Cabriolet, 06 MB E350 Estate |
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Functionista
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 7,717
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Got the 101 projects book?
Even the honorable judge Wayne dost not recommend replacement unless grabbing/prying the arm results in major movement. Really depends on vehicle storage/use over the years. If you replace, and I am NOT saying you don't possibly need replacement, be prepared for squeaks/groans as original was molded(?) into arm.
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Jeff 74 911, #3 I do not disbelieve in anything. I start from the premise that everything is true until proved false. Everything is possible. |
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Registered
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Requires removal of the trailing arm, which is the worst part. Removing and replacing the bushing itself isn't too bad.
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MBruns for President
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The bigger issue is that really you have to pull everything off to get the trailing arm out of the carrier. That screws up alignment settings. Really not that big of a deal once you make that leap of faith.
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Current Whip: - 2003 996 Twin Turbo - 39K miles - Lapis Blue/Grey Past: 1974 IROC (3.6) , 1987 Cabriolet (3.4) , 1990 C2 Targa, 1989 S2 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,569
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It's not a massive undertaking. Half the trouble is getting the engine out.
Make sure the car is properly supported so it does not fall and kill you. Drain brake system Remove brake lines Disconnect parking brake cables Disconnect shock Remove trailing arm bolts Remove trailing arms Remove bushings Install bushings Install arms Reinstall brake cables Service brake system. Good time to change fluid and do other brake work Perform rear alignment.
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'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen ‘96 993 Carrera 2 Polarsilber '81 R65 Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13) Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02) Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04) Ex-'89 944 Turbo S (Sold 8/21/20) |
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1974 911 w/ 83 SC engine
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 602
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Quote:
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More Likeable IRL
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depends on the age of the car and the enviorment its been used in... garage queen, not too bad. alot of winter driving with crud n rust you may struggle.
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78SC PRC Spec911 (sold 12/15) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7I6HCCKrVQ Now gone: 03 996TT/75 slicklid 3.oL carb'd hotrod 15 Rubicon JK/07.5 LMM Duramax 4x/86 Ski Nautique Correct Craft |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,612
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All of the above is right on. I did mine with a hydraulic press while the engine was out. The worst part was removing the hard brake lines.
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