Which 3.2 engine rebuild option

[Beaky]

Just wondering which way most would go?
Mines not there yet but believe its only a matter of time with 112k on the clock

Straight 3.2 rebuild
3.4 or other upgrade
964/993 transplant

[Rot 911]

Unless your valve guides go bad, you have many, many more miles left on that engine. If you need to do anything to a 3.2, it will most likely only be the top end. Assuming you are paying someone else to do the work, here is a rough estimate:

3.2 top end and clutch: $5000.00
3.4 upgrade: $10.000
3.4/6 transplant: $20,000

[Gustyones]

Are you sure you need to rebuild?

Assuming hat you do it depends on your budget and what else you want to do the car such as suspension, turbo, paint, etc.

I personally would go with the straight 3.2 rebuild and possibly the 3.4 upgrade

[KTL]

A friend has 160K plus on his '87 3.2 and it still runs like a scalded cat and uses hardly any oil. Hardy any oil is saying a lot, considering the car is mostly a track day car. Point being is that unless you've got some sort of problem, i'd say leave well enough alone. Don't assume the six digits on the odometer = worn out. These things run strong for a lot of miles if well looked after.

The 3.4 upgrade done right (i.e. go all in to get some sizeable power increase for your investment) is a lot of money. Done right = cams, intake flow-matched, exhaust, re-mapping of the ECU, upgraded rod bolts, to get it all optimized. You should only go there if you're willing to do more that just bigger pistons and cylinders to take advantage of the increased displacement. Otherwise a basic 3.2 is the way to go IMO.

You also need to tell us what year is your 3.2 If it's connected to a G50 trans, there's some help in a lighter clutch. Also, you can get a lot of performance out of re-gearing. If you've got a 915, you can get off a lot cheaper in the gear dept. than with a G50. G50 = 40% higher gear prices. Faster gear ratios is like "free" horsepower. Horsepower is only as effective as your torque multiplication, which is what the transmission does for you.

[Quicksilver]

If you change the oil and filter regularly and don't over rev the motor there is no reason to expect that it won't got 100k+ more with no major issues

[Beaky]

Its a 1987, G50 coupe, uses hardly any oil and runs well, with Steve Wong chip had 245 at a dyno 18 months ago.

But I now get a lot of smoke on start up that disappears quickly

[JeremyD]

My guess is you have plenty of miles left. Smoke on start up is not uncommon

[Rickysa]

108k on my (recently new to me) 88 targa...leaking in one cylinder per leak down, smokes bunches and the clutch grinds on full depression...so I'm jumping into a top-end (plus clutch and exhaust).

I'm still in the reading/research phase, as I've had no experience on Porsches...I think I've read every "top end" thread on here that search as brought up, and of course all of Wayne's books and the Bentley.

Should be fun...plan to photo document every step, as I'm new to the car and it might help someone else down the road.

I also found out from a earlier thread that I have a "rebuild expert" that just relocated about 30 minutes north of me from Fla.

[Beaky]

Interesting stats as they currently stand, 51% on standard rebuild, 38 on 3.4 and only 10% for transplant, closely mirrors my thread on UK Impact Bumpers site although standard vs. 3.4 is nearly even.

[Flat6pac]

At 100K, most of the 3.2 I see need guides, a valve job, and bottom steel studs.
Bruce

[Quicksilver]

If you are going into the engine and if any of the P&Cs need to be replaced I see no valid reason to stick with the stock displacement cylinders. Which ever P&Cs you go with you will have to expend $$$. Why not go for More?

The actual displacement of the 3.2L engine is 3164cc.
When you go to a 3.4L you are actually getting 3367cc.
When you go for the 3.5L cylinders you get 3506cc. The 3.5L is the bang for the buck but it does require you machine the case.

[geoff_k]

My two cents worth.. sounds like your oil level is too high. Been there and done that...

Gave my car an oil change only for the dreaded smke on start up - very embarrassing. Took it to a mechanic who siphoned some of the oil out ... no more smoke on startup.

[Beaky]

Ok, thanks all for the input.

Whilst the engine is out does one also split the crack case and do the bottom end, or just focus on the P&C, etc

Regards

[KTL]

If you're not using any oil and don't see any other problems aside from the smoke, i'd leave well enough alone unless you've got some money burning a hole in your pocket.

I agree with what Wayne is saying in terms of cost for the pistons and cylinders if the existing P&C's are worn out of spec. My point is that if you go with the larger displacement, you're either doing a. or b. depending on how you look at it:

a. selling yourself short if you do nothing but the displacement and that's all you're willing nt to spend
b. forcing yourself to spend more money to take advantage of the displacement/horsepower you're "leaving on the table"

I have to assume your 245 hp dyno number is estimated gross engine power? Because a stock 3.2L Carrera with 245 hp at the wheels is a HEALTHY 3.2L!!!

Definitely check the oil level like geoff_k said. Your oil level when cold (I know you're supposed to check it hot) should be nearly off the end of the dipstick. When hot it should be about mid-way on the stick. If the oil level is too high in the tank at startup, the oil gets spit out of the oil tank vent hose which goes directly into the rubber elbow between the throttle body and the air flow meter. The oil is sucked into the intake manifold and there's your heavy smoking on startup. Look in any 3.2L engine's intake manifold and you're bound to find some oil residing in the large plenum areas.

Splitting the case is almost a no-brainer if you've already got the top end off. But there's no reason to split the case if you've just got the engine out of the car for other basic service needs.