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stubbern axle bolt removal

Hello all; while starting my engine drop, I have run into my first obstacle. Removing axles from trans. It seems the #8 Allan head bolts don't want to budge. The Allen head socket do not fit tightly in the head of the bolts, and I can see that they are at the point, that if I use any more press on them, they will strip. I've already given them a good hit with a hammer, but no go. Any pointers/tips. thanks Philip

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Last edited by philip j; 12-17-2011 at 04:31 PM.. Reason: spelling
Old 12-17-2011, 04:29 PM
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Good quality allen bits that fit, I have a set of 1/2 inch drive allen sockets that I use rather then the L shaped ball head keys. Make sure the heads are completely cleaned out and the key is firmly seated. You can also try using your biggest set of mole grips at the same time. If the bolt allen head is trashed you can get really innovative with an angle grinder, I have a grinder with a cutoff blade that I have used to carve new flats on stuck bolt heads. Sometimes you can drive an imperial measure allen key into a metric bolt head. Next step is to cut the heads right off with the grinder, you will be replacing them anyway right?
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:39 PM
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Air chisel the edge and get a notch and the chisel should start it out. Sometimes you can drive in a 12 point in and get a good hold too.

Bruce
Old 12-17-2011, 04:44 PM
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Oh, one more thing, apply maximum force (as much as you think you can apply before stripping it) then get a mate to smack the end of the socket bar with a ball hammer. The sudden shock sometimes gets them loose. Don't use your best socket set T bar for this. Pre heating the housing with a propane torch can also help but can cause collateral damage to seals etc.
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1972 911T Coupe with a '73E MFI engine and 'S' pistons
10 year resto mostly completed, in original Albert Blue.

***If only I didn't know now what I didn't know then***
Old 12-17-2011, 04:44 PM
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I think someone in the past must have reused the bolts over. I have a set of good quality Allan head sockets, the bolts are nice and clean, but the 8 mm still wobbles when inserted in the head. I guess i will have to try pound a larger size in. I'd like to try get them out before cutting them off. I don't have a air chisel, as I'm in my home garage, and all my tools are electric. Maybe its time to invest in air tools. Philip
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:05 PM
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Be ready to replace the questionable one. When I dropped my engine/trans, I had 6 new on standby, had to use 1 new one due to a stripped head.

+1 use a chisel to break it loose and discard.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:02 PM
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spray some PB blaster on them and let soak overnight.
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:44 PM
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If you have an impact screw driver handy install the hex socket (On the tool) and hit it with a 2 lb hammer. Only do this to the top one then rotate the next one to the top, that gives you the clearance to do it.
I'm talking about one of these:
SNAPON TOOL 3/8 DRIVE IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SOCKET DRIVER PIT120 5.5" | eBay
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Last edited by timmy2; 12-18-2011 at 06:51 AM..
Old 12-17-2011, 09:32 PM
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I think I read once of someone putting valve grinding paste on the allen tool to take up some of the slack in a ruined allen head bolt, might work. Driving in a Torx tool might also give you another shot at it.
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1972 911T Coupe with a '73E MFI engine and 'S' pistons
10 year resto mostly completed, in original Albert Blue.

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Old 12-17-2011, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porboynz View Post
I think I read once of someone putting valve grinding paste on the allen tool to take up some of the slack in a ruined allen head bolt, might work. Driving in a Torx tool might also give you another shot at it.
+1. I would also put vice grips on the bolt head, so using the allen attached to a rachet and the vice grips after you soaked with PB or similar. You just need to crack it.

Also, order new bolts for the reinstall.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philip j View Post
The Allen head socket do not fit tightly in the head of the bolts, and I can see that they are at the point, that if I use any more press on them, they will strip.
Some (most?) of the time you have to clean out the head so the allen head socket fits snug. Lots of crap gets collected in there. I use a dental pick, then tap the socket a little to get it to seat better.

Also, maybe your allen head is a little rounded. Might have to grind the end down a little bit.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:33 AM
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PB blaster

OK guys, I got them. I drowned the hub assembly in PB, waited a couple hrs, good hit with the hammer and voila! But I think replacement of the bolts is a must. My Allan socket is almost new, no wear, and very loose in the bolts. thanks for all the reply. Philip
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philip j View Post
But I think replacement of the bolts is a must.
For CV axles this is the law in my house. I don't care how easy they came out, how unmarred they are. I use new CV axle bolts every time I work on a CV.

And given that, I've been known to break loose stuborn ones with a pair of vice grips on the outside ribbing of the bolts.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:26 AM
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Remember after 500 miles+/- re-torque them just to make sure. I am sure it will be okay but better safe then sorry.

Take care on the gasket, if you have them, they are very easy to rip.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:09 AM
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For CV axles this is the law in my house. I don't care how easy they came out, how unmarred they are. I use new CV axle bolts every time I work on a CV.
Why?
Old 12-18-2011, 10:43 AM
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^^^ +1, last 3 well known wrenches here did not replace them just the ones that had questionable/rounded bolts. Heck, plus they never called me back to re-torque but I see the good reason to re-torque, kinda makes sense, just incase I missed one or two being an amateur.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:53 AM
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Nice work Philip, all these suggestions probably scared the bolts loose.
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1972 911T Coupe with a '73E MFI engine and 'S' pistons
10 year resto mostly completed, in original Albert Blue.

***If only I didn't know now what I didn't know then***
Old 12-18-2011, 09:55 PM
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I think he used the principle in my sig.....
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Monson View Post
For CV axles this is the law in my house. I don't care how easy they came out, how unmarred they are. I use new CV axle bolts every time I work on a CV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 View Post
Why?
Probably because Porsche states you should use new bolts. In theory, the bolts are designed to be stretched once and do not return to their original length when removed.

It's one of those "penny wise, pound foolish" deals. If you don't spend a little bit now to get new bolts, you may be spending a lot later to fix the damage from failed bolts.

Scott
Old 12-18-2011, 10:11 PM
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Im fairly certain my seized axle bolts are either going to strip or break when I try to remove them. What at my options here? Given their location, looks tough to drill out. Should I PB blast and go for it? Worst case, how do you get these out if disaster strikes?

Old 12-19-2011, 12:26 AM
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