?????worn shifter coupling bushings

[Woody]

Greetings all. While working on the interior I had a close look at the shifter coupling. It has about .125" clearance in the bushings. I pulled it out and closer inspection appeared that this was normal( almost a slot that the pin rides in.) Is this normal or shold those bushings be fairly tight.
Thanks everyone
Kevin

[Jack Olsen]

Replacing the worn bushings is a very cost-effective way to create the impression that you have a whole new transaxle in the car. I recently had mine replaced, and the difference was astounding.

[Early_S_Man]

Woody,

That sounds like the 'normal' factory bushing, particularly if there is no vertical 'play' in the smaller dimension of the slot in the bushing. the one thing you should be looking for is cracks in the plastic ... when they develop, the bushing tends to crumble into little pieces that are found later on the floor of the tunnel.

[Woody]

Thanks guys. They are plastic bushings with only lateral clearance. If I made some bushings out of brass would that tighten it up. Or should I leave it alone. The bushings look to be in good condition.

Thanks
Kevin

[tmctguer]

i found the same type of "original" bushing in my '73 911E. i went ahead and replaced it, along with all other bushings in the shifter assembly. then, i adjusted my shift coupler per the factory manual. my shifting improved dramatically.

[Chuck Moreland]

Kevin, no need to make your own. You can buy replacement bushings cheap from Pelican. They are some type of polyurethane and have no play, unlike the factory coupler.

Yes definitely do this, it makes a profound difference in the shifter feel. And in a good way

[Bobboloo]

Yes change the bushings and while your at it change the other to bushings in the shifter housing (ball cup and shift rod collar). These parts are cheap cheap cheap and they all effect the shifting. To get the pin out of the coupler get a Mapp torch and heat the piece that the pin goes through. The pin should should then push out fairly easy.

Bobby

[ChrisBennet]

I've done 2-3 of these bushings. To remove the pin, put the splined part in vice with aluminum jaw inserts and tap the pin out with a punch. No need to use the blue wrench (torch).
The Weltmeister bushing I've used were all too tight side to side. I removed material from the back side (not the surface that rubs) to make them fit.
-Chris

[HawgRyder]

I did mine recently and used Delrin for the bushings....made them nice and snug.
It feels much better going into gear...to the point that I am considering making a shift gate for the shifter....like Ferrari's have.
Bob

[724doorE]

Woody,

I made mine out of brass on my lathe. I didn't feel like waiting a week or two to buy something I could make in 10 minutes for free!

Oh yes it is tight now.

I made my bushings a light press fit (maybe .001") in the coupler body. This holds them in with no need for anything else.

Dennis H.

72 911E

[motion]

Hey Guys,

This is a great thread. I just had my synchros replaced (again) and my 915 still shifts like crap. While the car is parked, its sometimes difficult to find reverse or first. Usually putting it into a gear and moving the car a couple of inches will allow me to find the gear I'm looking for. It sounds like new bushings might help me alot.

I went to the Pelican page for the bushings, and I'm not very clear on what to buy. Options are:

1) Shift coupler bushings (pair)
2) Front shift coupler boot
3) Rear shift coupler boot

or

The complete shift coupler - which sounds like a good deal since I won't have to mess with the pin removal. I'll gladly pay the $77 to save myself alot of grief and skinned knuckles.

Any words of advise or gentle prodding in the right direction?

[pryord]

Like Richard, I too am a little unclear as to what I should be replacing. There are many items listed in the shift linkage section of Pelican Parts "Parts". My car is difficult to get into 2nd, so I was thinking of changing out bushings, adjusting clutch, etc. before opening up the tranny.

[tmctguer]

in the shift mechanism, replace:

the ball at the bottom of the shift lever
the mating cup that the ball fits into
the bushing that holds the shift rod in place as it traverses the shift tunnel.

under the plate on the floorboard between the back seats, replace:

the shift coupler bushings.

all told, the bushings are approx. $40.

in both cases, you'll need to remove a threaded pin that helps attach and align the various mechanisms to the shift rod. i didn't need a torch to replace mine.......just a hex key. make sure you carefully align this tiny pin upon reassembly because you could damage it if its off center and you start to crank down with your hex key.

also, on the shift rod, mark in indelible ink the location of your shift coupler relative to its alignment on the rod. this will help you get it reassembled relatively closely to where it was prior to taking it off.

if your car is shifting poorly, adjust the shift coupler per the factory workshop manual. this will take a few attempts. each adjustment will require a quick trip around the block to see if you "nick" any gears while shifting.

this solves "alignment & bushing" related shifting problems, but in no way does it solve major transmission problems.

[Jim Sims]

For a complete "rebuild") I'd recommend replacing the plastic ball cup bushing (the one under the shifter up front); the guide bushing on the horizontal section of the shift rod (just to the rear of the shifter), the bushings in the shift coupler or the entire shift coupler and the two rear rubber boots if the present boots are in poor shape or have been in the car for more than 5 years. Also, I'd buy a spare "cone point" set screw in case one of the two in the linkage is bad (there is a set screw in the shift coupler and one in a coupler up front); the plastic locking insert in these set screws can wear out or the wrenching socket in the end can become "rounded". I've attempted to rebuild three of the shift couplers by just replacing the bushings (one needs a vise or hydraulic shop press); two were successful and on the third the aluminum housing cracked when I attempted to press out the steel pin. We ordered a complete new shift coupler (Porsche OEM) and it came with the steel pin so loose that it just slid out! QA went to hell somewhere! Needless to say that one went back for a refund/replacement. Use a grease suitable for plastic bushings when you reassemble and use the instructions here on Pelican to readjust the coupler. Cheers, Jim

[Woody]

Thanks alot guys. I will probably just make some bushings because our dollar sucks and sometimes the border is a hassle. I appreciate alll the replys. I had no problem driving my pin out. I'll be shifting into spring when this car is all done.
Regards
Kevin

[john walker's workshop]

73 on 914s had a similar coupler outside of the firewall. the bushings in it have no lateral play. the bushings can be used in a 911 coupler and make the shifter feel way more accurate.