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85 carerra crank sensor - hands are too big

I have starting problem and determined both the crank and speed sensors are bad. Tested them at connection behind left fuel rail. Got the parts but not sure I know how to get around behind to get them out. Any advice on most efficient access?

Old 01-14-2012, 07:36 AM
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Both bad at the same time? Seems chances are slim IMO.

Anyways, where exactly can you not get access to?
Old 01-14-2012, 07:58 AM
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crank sensor

yes, car was sitting for about 2 years. Went to start up and going through the troubleshooting drill, came up with both sensors bad. Reference sensor open on all 3 contacts, speed sensor open on 2. Anyway, I havent studied it very closely yet, but do you access sensors through engine compartment or underneath. I have floor jack and stands but dont have a lift.
Old 01-14-2012, 08:26 AM
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I'm guessing a 3.2 as you have two sensors.....might want to put your location in your post. Members have been known to offer a helping hand....

BTW, the BMW sensors work and are 1/2 the cost.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:06 AM
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left wheel off, looong 1/4" extension, wobbly and 5mm allen socket. if you're lucky, they may come out of the bracket. seems at least one of them is usually stuck, so the bracket needs to come off so you can deal with it on the bench. just cut the wires if you do that. way easier on a lift. the upper sensor goes to the bottom plug on the upper mount. you should get around 1000ohms on the two lower pins. no open circuit. bmw # 12141708618
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:46 AM
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Thanks for the info. I did get the BMW sensors after reading these posts. I am in Concord, NC and welcome any help
Old 01-14-2012, 10:34 AM
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Thanks John Walkers workshop. Thats exactly what I was looking for.
Old 01-14-2012, 10:37 AM
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I went through the excercise last summer, replaced both sensors (BMW cheaper). I was able to wiggle the sensors out with plenty of PB, soaking time.

I has more trouble with the grommets, old hard rubber. Plenty of good threads and pictures.

Good Luck
Old 01-14-2012, 11:04 AM
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That grommet makes you want to punch someone the first time you remove it!

I've had my sensors in and out several times. I just put it in jackstands and easily able to get to them.
Old 01-14-2012, 11:22 AM
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the top grommet comes out pretty easy if you poke a pocket screwdriver all the way under the end of it and through to the other side and then pry the end out. silicone spray the new one and it pops right in.
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:45 PM
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Yeah, I figured that out later John after I nearly broke my fingers trying to pry that stubborn thing out.
Old 01-14-2012, 01:03 PM
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If you can get a heat gun close enough to the grommet to heat it up the rubber will become very pliable and it should pop out easily. I learned this trick while reinstalling the rear lights. I fought with the rubber plugs for an hour with no luck. 25 second with a heat gun and each of them popped in without a fuss. If the silicone spray alone doesn't do the trick for the new ones some heat will again make the reinstall super easy.
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Old 01-14-2012, 01:16 PM
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wouldnt happen to know the pelican part number for the grommet would you? I cant find it in parts diagrams
Old 01-14-2012, 03:05 PM
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It's part of the cylinder head temp sensor
Old 01-14-2012, 03:35 PM
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The grommet goes with the cylinder head temperature sensor. It is slotted so that the speed sensor and reference sensor wires can slide into the grommet .
Old 01-14-2012, 04:51 PM
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Hi there. Did this very same job myself today using the step by step instructions in the link below from tom.stiller. Worked beautifully except that I had to use an Allen Key on the top sensor as my 'things-ma-jig' didn't work on such a tight angle. Otherwise identical procedure. Grommet was the worst part of the whole exercise. Good luck

no-spark problem finally resolved
Old 01-14-2012, 06:23 PM
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buzzatpp - were you measuring resistance on the left connectors or the right connectors attached to the bracket connected to the intake?

If the left, those go to the DME (ECU) and would give weird readings. Just a thought.

BTW, my understanding is the crank reference sensor is the starting sensor. Once running, it is no longer used and the speed sensor does all of the sensing for the DME.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:22 PM
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tippy - sensor connectors I tested are on a bracket on left rear above fuel rail, 3 terminals per connector. From memory?? I think the proceedure said to check resistance btw bottom post and middle, bottom and top, and middle and top. None of my contact pairs read resistance. I read on the sensor side of connector, not the DME side
Old 01-15-2012, 06:09 AM
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Ok, crazy they both went kaput. Good luck on getting running!
Old 01-15-2012, 06:12 AM
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Hello Buzzatpp.
I think I may have the same problem.
Please post whether you rectify the problem with the new sensors.
Regards,
Greg.

Old 01-20-2012, 09:01 PM
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