It's Leaking Again.....Arrrggggh!

[911nut]

Don't ask me why I did it, but last fall I took the strainer out of my engine and re-installed it using new gaskets (which are paper). I watched it leak all winter while the car sat. Last weekend I replaced the gaskets, using the yellow Permatex this time (the stuff that looks a lot like snot). Guess what, it's leaking again. How do I fix this once and for all?

[Doug Zielke]

Nut,
I'd guess the sump plate is warped, and no amount of goo will help it seal.

Take the whole thing apart, clean it up, and put it on piece of flat, plate glass. you should be able to tell if (and how much) it's warped.

A very good reason not to lift your car with the jack under the sump plate...even if you use a phone book or wood block.

Somewhere in the dusty archives, is a post about restoring sump plates to a flat condition. Try a search.

[joehahn]

i have the same problem. i am considering getting the replacement sump cover that i have seen in other catalogs as it is not that expensive. I have been told that you can put the warped plate on a flat, hard surface and bang the crap out of it to flattent it as well.

Joe 68 L

[Jim Sims]

If the replacement sump plate is OEM check that it has a drain plug as it may have been deleted in the newer OEM replacement sump plates. The plate warping usually occurs due to overtightening of the securing nuts. This dishes out metal around the stud holes in the sump plate. Then the plate makes contact against the bottom of the case before producing an adequate "squeeze" of the gaskets. One repair method is to remove the plate and place it upside down on a wooden block(s) such that the lip and drain plug are not touching the block(s). Then using a ball pein hammer "pein down" the upsets around the stud holes. Then reinstall using a suitable sealant on the gaskets and the right torque. I use "Curil-T" spairingly; the Curil-T seals well and doesn't harden over time. Jim

[911nut]

Thanks, everyone. Guess I now have an excuse to buy that $75 finned alunimum cover that I keep seeing in Excellence magazine.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by 911nut
... Last weekend I replaced the gaskets, using the yellow Permatex this time (the stuff that looks a lot like snot)...

I'm not familiar with the stuff you are talking about but...
I try to avoid using sealants like silicone, RTV, etc. that harden into little boogers because I'm afraid that they will clog various oil passages, spray bars, piston squirters, etc.
Am I worried for nothing? Isn't the Dow Corning 730 that some (rich) people use on cases an RTV?
Chris

[Jim Sims]

The correct torque for the nuts is 7 ft-lbs. I'd also replace the alumiunum washers under the nuts as they're likely "dished/crushed" from the over tightening. Jim

[GIBSON]

I've had good luck getting the sump plate flat with a large piece of glass and some sandpaper. A little curilT and no leaks.
I do have a leak on the breather cover, I did the same there, flattened the piece, used a little CurilT and it still leaks.
Not sure where I'm going next on this one.

Bruce

[Jim Sims]

Bruce, Consider replacing the breather hose; some are so hard that they won't effect a good seal to the nozzle on the breather cap. Second, the leak could actually be the oil pressure switch or engine mounted oil thermostst o-ring since they're in the same vicinity as the breather. Cheers, Jim

[GIBSON]

Jim, I just took the breather cover off and the gaskets seem to be wet as well as the area of the case just below the cover. Everything here is new as I just assembled the engine. I'll probably take the thermostat out just to check the o-ring and put new washers on the oil pressure sender assembly as well.
It is frustrating as I have no other leaks at this point. Oh well, I'll get it sooner or later.