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Por15 vs others to remove RUST
Hey Guys,
I have a question; What your opinion on Por15 and other rust delete?? Thank you. -Y. POR15 - (I know it good) - Starter pack you'll get a 4 oz. can of POR-15 (enough to cover 12 square feet) : http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327875050.jpg LocTite - Rust-Oleum Automotive rust removal package from local HD, about the same price as POR15 starter pack: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327875151.jpg |
por15 works great on bare metal, not so good on painted. my experience has been a good cleaning (wire brush, etc), good cleaning (water then dried), then por15. it seems to hold up good for 5-10 years but may need a recoat at some point in that span of time.
never used the rustoleum stuff for any car. i just don't know that i trust something sold at wal-mart to keep the ugly demon at bay for my ride. |
I've used POR15 for years with great results. Painted over rusty pin holed floor pans in an old car and they looked great for years. I put a very light fiberglass matting down and painted under/over it with the POR15 and it 'welded' it to the pans....you could stand on them with no problems.
I've heard good things about other products but have not used them....do not get the stuff on your hands btw, sticks. |
PO15 does not delete rust. it just "encapsulates" it. it bonds to rough surfaces and not so much to smooth surfaces, where it will probably peel off. hazes over in a short time, especially in the sun. rust mort changes rust to a black inert substance, but you have to get the majority of the rust off first. it won't kill a thick layer of it.
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No real experience with either. just want to add what i have read on the paint and bodywork forum.
por-15 is not meant for painting over, but it is widely used. there is another product called SEM rust shield, it should be better if you need to paint over it. |
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Some good discussion here: Pelican Parts Technical BBS - Powered by vBulletin and here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/641895-rust-question.html My thoughts on POR-15 Quote:
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I use rust dissolver from eastwood, then encasulate it. I have a tub it to dip parts. Works great.
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Naval jelly, rust mort and others that contain phosphoric acid (active ingredient) are the stuff John Walker talks about to convert the rust into a black inert material. Rust reformer (and other similar aerosols) are a spray on thing that you spray and let harden. It partially converts and encapsulates the rust. The jury is out on it's effectiveness vs the Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid containing) products. The primer is for sanding and prior to it's application, but you should apply an etching primer first to the bare metal. |
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Stovebolt Tech Tip! A Molasses Bath Rust removal...........the miracle of molasses! lots more info out there, this is just two. |
I came across this while surfing another automotive forum... Ultra One I haven't tried it though. It sounds almost too good to be true.
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i started teating my boat trailer springs like this. (salt water). before i was replacing springs about every other year. after, they lasted many years. (i sold the boat). |
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I am talking about rusty floor and inside of the car... :) -Y. |
Sorry if I am hijacking this thread, but it is very timely for a situation I'm dealing with right now. I thought I understood when/why to use POR15 but after reading this thread I'm not so sure.
I am in the middle of rejuvenating the interior on my '83 coupe. I pulled the windshield out because it was cloudy in the corners. That means moisture and where there is moisture, there is the potential for rust, which is exactly what I found. It looked pretty bad, so I ground it down to see if it was just surface rust. Thankfully it was just surface. I had planned on covering the bare metal with POR15, but now I'm wondering if priming it is really the way to go. What say you experts? |
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tirwin, I would use the POR15. If you're going to cover the metal with something, it may as well be POR15. It hardens sort of like powder coat. It cures from absorbing moisture from the air. When I removed the undercoating from my car, there were spots where it was loose and could collect moisture. So I undercoated the whole pan bottom with POR15. It was roughed up from the removal of the undercoating and I put on a fairly thin coat of POR15, so I'm optimistic it won't separate from the metal anywhere.
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Thanks for confirming the POR15, Marv. Last thing you want to hear is "what you SHOULD'VE done is..." :D
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Remember to rough up the areas where the metal is smooth and where you want to put the POR15. As said in the directions, POR15 likes some "tooth." You can also sand it a bit after it cures & paint over it.
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I used POR 15 on my gas tank and oil tank 4 years ago. I followed it up with their etching primer and then a top coat. It looks good so far. I would make sure to use their Marine Clean, and then Prep and Ready. Using another manufacturers products might affect how well it bonds. I purchased it in the small 6 pack cans. Once open, it doesn't have much shelf life. Any moisture, humidity and it hardens quickly. And wear gloves and a good respirator, fumes are toxic.
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x1000 on gloves. it stayed on my hands for a good 3-4 weeks.
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Hey guys,
Here what I've find so far, I've asked fellow Pelican Andy (Chemist by trade) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/645100-new-pelican-new-911-owner-9.html#post6615657 and this fellow Pelican John, many thanks http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/641895-rust-question.html#post6394800 Also, those links: Picklex does not need any washes - Picklex20. Stop Rust - KBS Coatings - 3 Step System - AquaKlean - RustBlast - RustSeal Chemicals & Coatings - Autobodystore Zero Rust Paint - Aerosols picklex 20 - good or bad - Vintage Mustang Forums picklex under epoxy My 2c. -Y. |
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