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Porsche Crest Por15 vs others to remove RUST

Hey Guys,

I have a question;

What your opinion on Por15 and other rust delete??

Thank you.
-Y.

POR15 - (I know it good) - Starter pack you'll get a 4 oz. can of POR-15 (enough to cover 12 square feet) :



LocTite - Rust-Oleum Automotive rust removal package from local HD, about the same price as POR15 starter pack:



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Last edited by 1-ev.com; 01-29-2012 at 01:41 PM..
Old 01-29-2012, 01:13 PM
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por15 works great on bare metal, not so good on painted. my experience has been a good cleaning (wire brush, etc), good cleaning (water then dried), then por15. it seems to hold up good for 5-10 years but may need a recoat at some point in that span of time.

never used the rustoleum stuff for any car. i just don't know that i trust something sold at wal-mart to keep the ugly demon at bay for my ride.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:25 PM
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Reiver
 
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I've used POR15 for years with great results. Painted over rusty pin holed floor pans in an old car and they looked great for years. I put a very light fiberglass matting down and painted under/over it with the POR15 and it 'welded' it to the pans....you could stand on them with no problems.
I've heard good things about other products but have not used them....do not get the stuff on your hands btw, sticks.
Old 01-29-2012, 04:25 PM
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PO15 does not delete rust. it just "encapsulates" it. it bonds to rough surfaces and not so much to smooth surfaces, where it will probably peel off. hazes over in a short time, especially in the sun. rust mort changes rust to a black inert substance, but you have to get the majority of the rust off first. it won't kill a thick layer of it.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:38 PM
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No real experience with either. just want to add what i have read on the paint and bodywork forum.

por-15 is not meant for painting over, but it is widely used.

there is another product called SEM rust shield, it should be better if you need to paint over it.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john walker's workshop View Post
PO15 does not delete rust. it just "encapsulates" it. it bonds to rough surfaces and not so much to smooth surfaces, where it will probably peel off. hazes over in a short time, especially in the sun. rust mort changes rust to a black inert substance, but you have to get the majority of the rust off first. it won't kill a thick layer of it.
What John says...

Some good discussion here: Pelican Parts Technical BBS - Powered by vBulletin

and here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/641895-rust-question.html

My thoughts on POR-15

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryD View Post
Contrary to popular belief, POR-15 (a good product) in and of itself, is not a rust killer. The POR-15 system consists of "Marine Clean (a degreaser), Prep & Ready (a rust converter like Rust Mort, Naval jelly etc), and POR-15 (epoxy coating).

You can use Naval Jelly (or Rust Mort) followed by a good primer and paint with about the same results.

If you like a simple, two step process, many of us use a product like Permatex Rust treatment


or Loctite Extend



or the NAPA Autoparts equivalent.

We then use the appropriate top coat.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:07 PM
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I use rust dissolver from eastwood, then encasulate it. I have a tub it to dip parts. Works great.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1-ev.com View Post
Hey Guys,

I have a question;

What your opinion on Por15 and other rust delete??

Thank you.
-Y.

POR15 - (I know it good) - Starter pack you'll get a 4 oz. can of POR-15 (enough to cover 12 square feet) :



LocTite - Rust-Oleum Automotive rust removal package from local HD, about the same price as POR15 starter pack:


The second photo is an interesting combination of items. The first two on the left (naval jelly and rust reformer) do similar things but I am not sure you should use both.

Naval jelly, rust mort and others that contain phosphoric acid (active ingredient) are the stuff John Walker talks about to convert the rust into a black inert material.

Rust reformer (and other similar aerosols) are a spray on thing that you spray and let harden. It partially converts and encapsulates the rust. The jury is out on it's effectiveness vs the Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid containing) products.

The primer is for sanding and prior to it's application, but you should apply an etching primer first to the bare metal.
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Last edited by HarryD; 01-29-2012 at 05:21 PM.. Reason: stupid typos
Old 01-29-2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dondarnell View Post
I use rust dissolver from eastwood, then encasulate it. I have a tub it to dip parts. Works great.
If you got the time and space, why not molasses?

Stovebolt Tech Tip! A Molasses Bath

Rust removal...........the miracle of molasses!

lots more info out there, this is just two.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:18 PM
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I came across this while surfing another automotive forum... Ultra One I haven't tried it though. It sounds almost too good to be true.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john walker's workshop View Post
PO15 does not delete rust. it just "encapsulates" it. it bonds to rough surfaces and not so much to smooth surfaces, where it will probably peel off. hazes over in a short time, especially in the sun. rust mort changes rust to a black inert substance, but you have to get the majority of the rust off first. it won't kill a thick layer of it.
use ospho first. it is an acid that will eat the rust. use a wire brush after it dries, then something PO15 or extend that will put a hard coating over it.

i started teating my boat trailer springs like this. (salt water). before i was replacing springs about every other year. after, they lasted many years. (i sold the boat).
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:43 AM
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Porsche Crest

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryD View Post
If you got the time and space, why not molasses?

Stovebolt Tech Tip! A Molasses Bath

Rust removal...........the miracle of molasses!

lots more info out there, this is just two.
I think molasses will work great, when you can drop rusty part into the bucket...

I am talking about rusty floor and inside of the car...

-Y.
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Last edited by 1-ev.com; 01-30-2012 at 01:35 PM..
Old 01-30-2012, 05:32 AM
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Sorry if I am hijacking this thread, but it is very timely for a situation I'm dealing with right now. I thought I understood when/why to use POR15 but after reading this thread I'm not so sure.

I am in the middle of rejuvenating the interior on my '83 coupe. I pulled the windshield out because it was cloudy in the corners. That means moisture and where there is moisture, there is the potential for rust, which is exactly what I found. It looked pretty bad, so I ground it down to see if it was just surface rust. Thankfully it was just surface.

I had planned on covering the bare metal with POR15, but now I'm wondering if priming it is really the way to go. What say you experts?
Old 01-30-2012, 06:43 AM
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:46 AM
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tirwin, I would use the POR15. If you're going to cover the metal with something, it may as well be POR15. It hardens sort of like powder coat. It cures from absorbing moisture from the air. When I removed the undercoating from my car, there were spots where it was loose and could collect moisture. So I undercoated the whole pan bottom with POR15. It was roughed up from the removal of the undercoating and I put on a fairly thin coat of POR15, so I'm optimistic it won't separate from the metal anywhere.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:05 AM
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Thanks for confirming the POR15, Marv. Last thing you want to hear is "what you SHOULD'VE done is..."
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:25 AM
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Remember to rough up the areas where the metal is smooth and where you want to put the POR15. As said in the directions, POR15 likes some "tooth." You can also sand it a bit after it cures & paint over it.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:45 AM
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I used POR 15 on my gas tank and oil tank 4 years ago. I followed it up with their etching primer and then a top coat. It looks good so far. I would make sure to use their Marine Clean, and then Prep and Ready. Using another manufacturers products might affect how well it bonds. I purchased it in the small 6 pack cans. Once open, it doesn't have much shelf life. Any moisture, humidity and it hardens quickly. And wear gloves and a good respirator, fumes are toxic.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:23 PM
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:27 PM
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Hey guys,
Here what I've find so far, I've asked fellow Pelican Andy (Chemist by trade)
New to Pelican and new 911 owner

and this fellow Pelican John, many thanks http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/641895-rust-question.html#post6394800


Also, those links:

Picklex does not need any washes - Picklex20.

Stop Rust - KBS Coatings - 3 Step System - AquaKlean - RustBlast - RustSeal

Chemicals & Coatings - Autobodystore

Zero Rust Paint - Aerosols

picklex 20 - good or bad - Vintage Mustang Forums

picklex under epoxy

My 2c.
-Y.

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Last edited by 1-ev.com; 03-25-2012 at 12:51 PM..
Old 03-25-2012, 12:14 PM
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